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The_Kack

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  1. The_Kack
    Thank you guys so much for all of your help. I was able to track it down to the switch. I am working on getting the upgrades done to it from Cruiser's advice. After two days of fighting, I was able to get the ignition switch out, replace it because it looked like someone got in there before me and bent it all to $#!&. I replaced the lock cylinder for good measure and will be replacing the cap, rotor, coil, and ignitor in the next few weeks, especially as I go through the truck and catch up to Cruiser's stuff. I truly appreciate all of you who helped me. BTW, for those curious, when I got into the ignition and could see the problem, there was one harness that was barely attached to the ignition switch and would not plug back in. New switch in and all issues are gone! Thank you. I cannot tell you how much it means to me that I could get the help and get it fixed.
  2. The_Kack
    Ok, so I haven't been able to find issues yet. But today, the truck died and wouldn't crank at all. The three options I have come to are that it is A) the Crank position sensor, but won't it normally crank when it goes bad and just cut the spark? (anyone have pictures or good descriptions of how exactly to test the CPS with a multimeter? I have the cheapy from Harbor Freight, CEN something). B ) Ignition switch or wiring. But the only way I can think of that would cause it to die as it was running is if there's a connection in the switch or the key cylinder that would short out and cause the power to be killed from the ignition system. If it is the ignition cylinder or switch, how could I connect a starter button with a switch to ensure that the battery doesn't die from constant on? Or C) A bad starter/solenoid, but how could that possibly kill the truck as you're driving?
  3. The_Kack
    So, it's just going to be a try and find it deal, I take it?
  4. The_Kack
    It dies really suddenly with no warning. I have a multimeter somewhere, just no gauge in the truck. I also missed the question about which Comanche it is. It's a 1989 4.0 base model. auto trans. 4x4.
  5. The_Kack
    See, that was my first thought, but I didn't think it would cause it to die after it had already been running. This truck has given me issues that I've never run into before...
  6. The_Kack
    I don't have a voltmeter :( ... Nevertheless, it just doesn't turn the starter when I turn the key, like, no click, no wind, just absolutely nothing. If I let it sit a few minutes it will engage the starter and start right up. I was thinking faulty wiring somewhere, but it's so intermittent that it doesn't make sense (done it twice over three days). Eagle - Crank or Cam? And would that cause a cut to the power on the starter?
  7. The_Kack
    So, driving home tonight the truck was running great until I was about 3/4 of the way home. Then the truck just randomly died. Lights stayed on, battery connections are solid, no engine code, just dead. Here's the weird thing. After it died, it took about five minutes and then it would start right up. BEFORE that five minutes was up, there was absolutely no power to the starter. No click, no grind, just nothing. My question to you guys is, what the hell could it be? I'm at a loss. I mean, POSSIBLY a ground wire, but then I would think it would kill the battery too and there would be no lights... I'm just at a loss. Let me know.
  8. The_Kack
    I haven't tried anything yet beings I haven't identified the noise.
  9. The_Kack
    Well, I've put 200 miles on it in the last couple days and I'm going to put another 150-200 on it tomorrow and there's no change so far in sound. Still no idea what this is, which may seem good, but it still makes me nervous (i.e. can break at any moment). Anyone have a line on relatively cheap engines? Or someone in Colorado know a place that has a good price on rebuilds?
  10. The_Kack
    How could I check for the lifter? Also, I really appreciate all the help guys, I did get an offer on the truck I'd be stupid to not take, but if it's just the lifter, I may be stupid lol. In any event, I will be getting another Comanche at some point if I do sell this one, they're just cool!
  11. The_Kack
    not there on startup. stays the same once warmed up. no noise under power.
  12. The_Kack
    I'm using a Wix filter and I don't have a gauge to hook up to check oil pressure. I don't know if other Comanche's came with a pressure gauge, but mine's a base and just has basic lights, not even a temp gauge.
  13. The_Kack
    Ok, so my brother couldn't see any issues with the flexplate either, all bolts tight. Should we assume that beings it fades when spark is pulled it's the rod bearings and due for a rebuild?
  14. The_Kack
    I couldn't see anything, but I'm getting a second opinion from my brother tomorrow to be sure. If it isn't the the FP or TqC, should I drive it until/if it worsens or just leave it down until rebuild?
  15. The_Kack
    Thanks guys. I'm going to climb under it later on today and hope that it's the TQ Converter or the Flex Plate. Another question I had was, I recently moved my exhaust around a bit trying to keep the driveshaft from smacking into the downpipe. I didn't hear any cracks or pops when I did this, but that doesn't mean much in cars, I know. Could the heating cycle have cause it to crack up by six and that's why the knock gets better with no spark? (i.e. no spark means no ignition which means reduced pressure coming out of the crack which means a lighter or less noticeable knock). Also, if it isn't the TQ or FP, what would the next guess be from you guys? I really do appreciate all of the help. I want to keep the truck and need all the help I can get.
  16. The_Kack
    Also, it's an '89 with 183,500 miles. Was told it was rebuilt about five years ago and has only had 30k put on it since then.
  17. The_Kack
    It's the 4.0 with a 4spd auto. (haven't quite learned the codes). My best guess is rear of the engine. Like I said, when I pulled the sixth cylinder plug it died down a bit like there was less stress. I've been panic researching and found that it could be rod bearings, piston slap, or lifters if it's in the engine. With it not being constant I'm leaning toward piston slap or lifters. But I don't get why it's at idle, but not at other rpm.
  18. The_Kack
    So, driving today, I stopped and could hear a light knock. I touch the throttle and it goes away, back at idle and it's back. I tracked it down to the rear of the engine (I think), pulled the rear cylinder's plug wire and it went away a bit. I'm seriously hoping that it's not going to need a rebuild, but I'm not 100% of what it could be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  19. The_Kack
    Ok, so, next question is, I read "how" to center an axle, but can someone explain how to "bounce" the axle to get it centered? Thanks for all the help, I'm sorry to be such an idiot about this. I've only had leafed fronts and IFS and they don't seem to be as sensitive as coil fronts.
  20. The_Kack
    Better yet, would an alignment solve the issue? Maybe? Hopefully?
  21. The_Kack
    Thanks for the reply, sorry for the delay in my response. I do not have a lift. I was hoping I wouldn't need a new down pipe as I don't have a cat (emissions free area) and didn't really want to buy one unless absolutely necessary. Do you think it may be possible to ratchet strap it over an inch or so and have it be permanent? Obviously I'd have to go much further than an inch while doing it to get the bend necessary to make it permanent, but I am really hoping this is viable.
  22. The_Kack
    It uh... It is the drive shaft on the exhaust... :doh: My question now is... how do I fix that?
  23. The_Kack
    Thanks for the ideas guys. And no, I know the issue with the T-Case locking on dry pavement. I noticed this two months after I bought the truck because it flooded my road and making it through the slop, I had to use 4H. Had it not flooded it probably would have been winter before I noticed the issue. I'll get around to checking everything tomorrow evening and Thursday.
  24. The_Kack
    Ok, so I just got a Comanche, in good condition minus a few little issues here and there. However, the big issue I'm having with it is that, when in 4h or 4l, and taking a right hand turn or when the axles are off-set (i.e. not parallel to the ground) I get what I can only describe as a rotational grinding/bumping sound. Basically, it sounds like the drive shaft is rubbing on something or has something attached to it that is impacting something else. I checked the shafts and there's nothing there, but I have NO idea what it could be. I did replace the trans mount and it didn't change anything.
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