hakukamana

I know Cruiser said at one time I think that there was an option for a high altitude CPS. He would be the one to know. It was a Zone 71-Los Angeles truck It also had a Perforated Steering wheel w/Red Stitching Interior is gray Solid back window

Here's the link: https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing Getting a Jeep Build Sheet for Jeeps Built Before 1998 Here is where it gets really challenging to find your Jeep build sheet. But we’ve heard stories from jeepers who have been successful. Here are 2 things you can try: Option 1: First go ahead and try the steps above. John at Chrysler told me that sometimes folks are able to get their Jeep build sheet using that method if the records were input by someone at Jeep. He explained that factory build sheets prior to 1998 are fairly obscure and yet some of them managed to make it into the system. It really depended on the vehicle and model and which sites were active prior to 1998. At that time Jeep just wasn’t keeping all of the records digitally. It wasn’t until 1998 that all Jeep build sheets were required to be input. Option 2: Contact FCA Historical Services. This is really more for vintage vehicles, but John said that it is possible they may have build sheets for Jeeps built prior to 1998 and that he had heard of some success stories in finding them through that method. If you contact them, make sure you let them know you are looking for your factory Jeep build sheet and provide them with the 17 character VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) of your Jeep. Here is the contact info for FCA Historical Services: Mailing address: FCA Historical Services 12501 Chrysler Freeway CIMS: 410-11-21 (That is their Department Code) Detroit, MI 48288 Email: danielle.szostak@fcagroup.com (Please allow 5-7 business days for a response.) Fax: Yes, as of my conversation with John they still use a fax machine. But if you want to go that route, the fax number is (313) 252-2928.

I checked the Chrysler vin check registry it came up. From what I understand pre98' is a hit or miss situation. Someone had to enter the data into the database. I guess after 98 Jeep went to a fully digital format and it automatically updates the database with build info.

10x2.5 rear brakes Black vinyl floor covering Command-Trac Part time 4WD 230MM Front axle 3.07 rear gear ratio Bright Windshield Moldings AM MTR Radio Skid plate group Straight Back Bench seat 5-Speed Manual Transmission Dana 44/226MM Rear axle Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle Left Manual mirror High Altitude Emissions 15x7.0 steel wheels Rear spring Group I Left front spring group VIII Right Front spring group VII Low series tracking Sold new 12-17-88 Color is Silver???? Mileage 230K speedo is not working Location Captain Cook, Hawaii Runs and drives

As the title states, time for a pair of either very good "USED" tail lights or the ever elusive NOS pair that are in some ones closet or garage.

No emissions testing at all. We have a "Safety Check", if the wheels stay on the car you pass and $25 for the inspection. I think that fitting might be a M22x1.5. Went through my sizing gauges and the OD only fits M22, the only two M22 size thread pitches are 1.5 fine, 2.5 course. Thread distance measurements look to be 1.5. Now which way to go with the EGR?

Anyone know the fitting size for the EGR tube fittings? I am in the process of installing a Pacesetter header on the Eliminator, and of course the new EGR bung on the exhaust manifold has moved causing an issue with the installation of the EGR tube. Not sure about doing the EGR delete versus trying to fab up a new EGR pipe. I did try to fab a pipe out of a extra EGR pipe I had, but could not get it air tight, had some leaks. I took it to a weld shop and so far they are not having much success either. I saw some flex pipe that would take the heat but no real way to make the fittings work. You need a flange at the end of the pipe to seal when the fitting is tightened up and a straight length for the fitting to swivel when installing. It appears that this simple modification has turned into a nightmare. Any ideas would be welcome.

Glad to hear you got her running again, Look up Dover Gray Poly Metallic. Its an OEM color for that era. Its kind of a cool color.

No problem, glad to help, it all comes down to a passion for the trucks, and keeping them running.

#1/BLU, #2/LT GRN, #3/TAN, #4/YEL, #5/WHT, #6/BRN Hope this helps

Injector harness wiring diagram. Color codes correspond, to the injector #

Did you find a head? I have one! The problem I see is its probably cost prohibitive to ship to you from my location. Let me know if you want to pursue that option.

Good luck, up to 90 will work, Cherokee, Wrangler. What ever is available. Call your local machine shop. They may have a head, from someone who dropped one off, and didn't want to pay for the work.

At this point, remove the head. Pull the entire rocker arm assembly. Keep things in order, don't mix things up. The valve train is worn specific to it's current location. You need to look at the lifters, once the heads off. Keep them in order, check #1 intake and exhaust for visible damage. If you have a valve spring compressor tool, pull the keepers off and pull the springs. You may have broken a spring. Once the springs are off if the valves are straight, you should be able to move them up and down in thier bores without much effort. If not well you know, the valve stem is bent. Depending on how severe the damage is a replacement head from the bone yard might be the best choice.

A stuck valve, a hole in the piston, a collapsed lifter are all causes of a bent push rod. You probably should remove the push rods to see if you have more than one that is bent. Hard to eye ball if they have a slight bend but they are no good if they do. Best way to check to to roll the push rod on a piece of glass and see if it wobbles. It also allows you to see the area that is bent. Lifters require the heads to be removed. Probably a good thing because you can check to see if #1 has a bent valve as well. If the valve stuck or bent, the cam pushes up on the lifter and then the pushrod and it doesn't want to go any where so it bends. Not catastrophic, but not like changing a spark plug. If the valves are bad rebuild the head. Don't just drop a valve and a push rod in you probably should replace the lifters as well. Good luck, been there done that!

I would check the rocket arms, and the entire valve train. Pull the head and look at the valves, might have a collapsed lifter.

Have you pulled the valve cover?

Run a compression check on the motor. Then post the results. Check your oil level.

Any ideas on where to purchase "New" AW4 solenoids. I have Googled and I keep seeing the solenoids for 87/2001 for Cherokee's, 90-93 for Comanche's. I know no 93' Comanches thier info not mine. Any body found a reliable USA based manufacturer of these components. I want to do all three.

The LTFT numbers I guess indicate less fuel required to hit the stoic magic number of 128. Pulse width closed loop after warm up and at idle is about 5. to 5.1 ms

Appears that the O2 is functional STFT moves from 117 to 134, LTFT up to 101 as of this morning. Thats as high as its gotten since the last new O2 install.

NickInTimeFilms NAXJA Forum User Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: NJ Posts: 17 Re: Long Term Fuel Trim at 92. Renix Just gonna add a little input as I was quickly browsing the thread. Renix ECUs do have a KAM Keep Alive Memory which does store a few values such as previous LTFT, TPS closed %, and how many key cycles since a sensor fault, though I'm still trying to find that last one. The big debate is if Renix stores trouble codes which it does not save for the key cycle. I'm going to do a lot more looking into the few mystery values still left in the stream to see what I can find eventually. As for LTFT in general, after a reset it will read 128 which means it is using the stock look-up table. Once the vehicle sucesfully stays in closed loop then it will start adjusting STFT and an average deviation will be found which is the LTFT. So LTFT shows you the average correction factor from the stock tables that is needed to stay stoic. STFT is the current needed deviation I think, and I forget if that changes in open loop. Lower LTFT readings means it is using less fuel to stay stoic, and higher readings show more fuel is required. For my stroker it sits are 176 but will go a little lower if only city driving. This is the guy who's manufacturing the in-cab diagnostic readers, he a lot smarter than me. But he knows the insides of the Renix computer and a lot of its construction.

746's are flowing @ 20.2 lbs/hr and 212 cc/min. Stock injectors are flowing @ 21.5 lbs/hr and 240cc/min. These are or should be based on 43.5psi fuel pressure or 3 bar. Could the ECU be trying to compensate for flow from the 746's. What funny is the calculator says both stock and 746's are providing more fuel than required.

This cam out of the Snap-On MT2500 Jeep Guide