dragordie

MSD 8992 - Inductive Timing Light. One of my many finest tools I don't know how or why but every time I turn the engine over and hit TDC the rotor is always 180 off. I had contacted the machine shop that bored my block. and he suggested that I start bumping the cam gear a tooth at a time advancing the timing if that doesn't work than back a tooth to retard. He also said with the position on my rotor on TDC my timing gears may not be correct like a dirt bike add two teeth to the front and take 4 away from the rear. so I'm going to count the teeth on my old gears and see if the new match up.

Valuable information Comanche County and i did follow that proceedure, gogmorgo the top picture is how the cap order is showing in my haynes TJ service book. That's the thing that is bugging the crap out of me I have all the electronics and mechanicals on spot.

with all the agervation ive had its not a wonder i havent forgotten it. but were good with that.

I just hook my timing light up and its hitting 0 degrees on timing mark. pulled the plugs fuel is getting to them.

The injectors I have are 4.7 Stroker Bosch 27lb Fuel Injectors. I have spun the cam over and over chain off and with the rocker cover off watching the rise and fall of the rockers on cyl 1 I have done compression checks holding 150 psi with only 2 psi diff on all 6 cyl. The engine has 10.1. leak down over night test 0 psi lost on all cyl. I still don't know why I'm not getting any reference or movement when turning the engine over from the tack.

Let’s go to the beginning 1996 ZJ 4.0 sent the block out to get magnaflex and bored 30 over. Parts list comp cam 68-232-8 Keith Black KB944 forged pistons King rod bearings king cam bearings King main bearings single roller chain set Titan Crankshaft titan connecting rods accel plugs wires cap rotor brass freeze plugs high volume Melling oil pump. Ok you get the idea by now I built a 4.7 stroker. First problem was getting it started. When running just as it would go into close loop it would have this crazy idle dropping down to 6 to 800 rpms up to 3k. My bad I didn’t set the camshaft position sensor when dropping in the new distributor. So pulled it out set the crank and cam at TDC 0 degrees pinned the distributor dropped it in and now 10 hours later pulling the distributor timing cover on and off redialing in the cam and crank. Still will not start. Pulled the 5 volt reference on the crank and cam position sensors. They are checking out to be good. Any stroker owners out their that might know what the problem can be? one other thing when turning the engine over my gages show oil pressure at 60 psi but I have now tack movement.

new message on the MJ Tech engine will not start do to my own lack of one little detail with the distributor.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1607-jeep-comanche-full-of-custom-tricks/

http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1607-jeep-comanche-full-of-custom-tricks/

Was checking off my build list and I have accomplished a lot this weekend. Be Cool 3 core alum radiator in place Dual Electric fans installed Front clip mocked up Took the front clip back off and shot some rattle can gloss black Engine is now running but needing to change out the injectors to feed the stroker and exhaust to allow it to BREATH. Still working and routing the Grand Cherokees wiring harness. Swapping pigtails and sockets on the headlight and front markers harness to except head lights for the Comanche. The fuel tank which was in the Grand is on the shop floor wired and plumed and feeding the Stroker. Not sure if I will use the Comanche fuel tank fuel cell or use the Grands tank. Next I will be redoing the floors than making new brake lines than mount the brake booster and peddle. My Daughter wants me to change the name from Rock Frog to Chuck. I think Chucky works. Remember the movie Chucky. It fits.

Doing some research I'm thinking on going to these Injectors ( Accell 150826 Fuel Injectors, 26 lbs./hr., 14.4 Ohms Impedance, 12 V,) Than building my header from a Clifford header I had on a 300 inline ford 6cyl the stroker should be able to inhale and exhale without any restrictions

when I reinstall my fuel tank with pump back in my 88 Eliminator which had the stock 4.0 but now has 96 4.0 that's now a 4.7 stroker. will the original fuel pump be able to feed the stroker? I do still have the tank and pump from my 96 ZJ where the 4.7 started its life as a 4.0 came from.

Engine and transmission are in there new home. Wiring harness engine transmission tcase is all from my Grand truggy. laying out the wiring its backwords from a MJ. lined up a couple holes for the harness that was already in the firewall. had to cut a hole on the passenger side for the harness so I can mount the fuse box. The Battery box will be in the bed. When I have the new engine running I'm going to tackle the floor boards and interior. here is a picture of the engine in its place with the wiring. This is what I'm going to do for a bed This truck belonged to Fred Perry he ran the ultimate challenge in 2012 with a 1989 Jeep Comanche. Here is the specs on Fred's MJ-715 Clemson Crawler When you needed a pull on the trail, you didn't have to wait long for Warn reps Steve Schoenfelder and Fred Perry to lend a hand. Driving their custom-built Mini M-715 they even had the chance of demonstrating some of the excellent Warn product line as the first day of the trip would put a freshly built rig on its lid. Always the troopers and in true Warn fashion they knew to "Go Prepared" and got the rig righted and kept on wheeling. The Down & Dirty Owner: Fred Perry Co-driver: Steve Schoenfelder Representing: Warn Stomping grounds: South Carolina Vehicle: '89 Jeep MJ(715) Engine: 4.0L Transmission: Four-speed auto Transfer case: NP231 with a Tera 2-low and Atlas short shift kit Front axle: Rockcrusher high-pinion 60, 35-spline, Detroit Locker, 4.88 gears Rear axle: Dana 60, 35-spline Alloy USA shafts, Detroit Locker, 4.88 gears Steering: PSC hydraulic assist Suspension: Custom Superlift long-arm front with leaves in the rear Tires & Wheels: 37x12.50 BFG KM2 M-Ts on 17-inch Race Line Monster bead locks Other Stuff: Warn front and rear bumpers, Warn 9.5XP winch, custom bed with Warn VTC compressor and aux tank, custom tire carrier Built for: Rocks ​here are a couple links to Fred's 1989 MJ-715 http://imgur.com/a/ca57p#0 http://imgur.com/a/ZNmda#0 ​ <>< <><

looks like you have a great platform to work with. Like the direction your going with Danny.

Cool good to know thanks for that info. It would be awesome to meet that person. Just to ask a book of questions on the building of the Comanches.

lost interest gained it back still building it into a 4wheel drive. sent the 4.0 out for machine work, block is bored 40 over. head ported and polished next on the grocery list is larger 4 hole injectors larger throttle body and header free flow cat system so it can breath. any engine builders out their with ideas on what would be best matched for the 4.7. here she is in the new home. Next will be working on transmission than T/case

Metal can be betten out other parts can be straighten. It's a great day when you can wakeup situp take nourishment and Praise the Lord. That option is always better than taking a dirt nap. Good to here your ok.

rear of bed and tailgate tail lights this is the only hard rust over the entire bed Underside when removing only 2 bolts broke off lower drivers side rear Front drivers side Inside bed and top of tailgate Very front of bed

​ This is my craigs ad http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/pts/5541279646.html

Well going to mix it up. Restoring the Eliminator back to stock (let me explain) body is going back to original. Going to show why Jeep made the Eliminator. It starts with the 3 Fs FIT FORM & FAST. Not sure on what small block I'm going with nor trans. I have been reading all these transformations of Eliminators becoming 4 wheel drives and I have built several jeeps in my recent past. But before Jeeps I had built a couple early 70s Pontiacs. last being a 72 GTO with a 455 SD TA motor in 1985. I think at the age of 52 its time to go fast again.

Removed the bucket seats carpet and pad. A little shocked first picture is of the drivers floor This is the passenger side floor not much progress but warmer weather and time changes just around the corner.

I have done a lot of searching on the WJ Dana 30 and all I come up with is the brake conversion. I have used Ford 70s Dana 44 and rear Ford 9inch axles in most of the Jeeps I have built. But for my 88 Comanche Eliminator 2WD conversion to 4WD I am going with a Ford 8.8 rear which is shorter than the stock rear axle in MJ & XJs so will be needing to run wheel spacers. And the WJ Dana 30 is just a tad wider than stock MJ & XJ Dana 30. For my question why not swap the front WJ Dana 30 axle for the front MJ Dana 30? Question 2 with the wheel spacers being 5on4.5 to 5.5 and running the WJ D30 the tires should be in line with each other right?

Wow that's one clean low mileage 88 Eliminator you have 88eliminator.

Been resurching and have came up with nothing. I don't thing it is a production number. But I could be wrong.

Still tossing around the idea of coils on all 4 corners but than want to keep rear leafs to have the GVW. going to 8.8 has anyone used Ranger leafs with 8.8? I guess no one can tell me what the 882 numbers on my fire wall stands for? I will be going Long arm fronts. No update do to getting hammered by Mother Nature.