man of la manche

this truck is "awesomeness" defined, very nice work on the bumpers and gas tank

d'oh... thanks for the offer, I did sort of skip over it, I found a guy on ebay who is shipping one to me via usps for just over $40 CDN, odds are pretty good that with a value less than $25 US they won't hassle me for any taxes/border fees

thanks, but quadratec stopped shipping to canada by usps in the last few months, it is ups only now and by the time i get it i will end up paying close to $100 with all the added fees ups extorts from cross border customers, if I was doing a big order I would use quadratec and have it sent to the falls for me to pickup, but crossborder is no longer an option with them, very few companies will ship crossborder with anyone but ups now, which is a shame, even though fedx is a higher charge to ship, their customs fees are nowhere near as high as ups and I end up paying a lot less with them even though the initial shipping cost is a few dollars higher I will be taking your advice and getting a new bottle and cap though, but I will find someone on ebay who ships by anything but ups thanks again

I do the major parts shopping through catalogs, online and have it shipped to niagara falls new york. Once everything arrives I take a saturday morning to pick it up and pay my taxes at the border. I ordered the parts to complete my suspension lift. Shipped to the falls cost me 170 after exchange. Shipped to toronto would cost almost 300 after ups adds their extortion fee. And the border guard let me pass without paying tax this time. I made a jy stop on the way to get a console for the truck. Usually I order a lot more when I do the border thing. Now that I'm done jacking my own thread I have a pressure problem with my coolant to worry about.

Doesn't seem so easy now. Seeing as I only have a 10 permit for the plate I may be better off paying the extra and using that time to address other issues 7 foot pipe in toronto is 40, 6 foot pipe is 80 (after taxes) and that was cheapest after calling 3 places.

I found my answer to number 1 the LB is 6" longer in weelbase too, 119 instead of the SBs 113 It looks like I can cut 6 inches off each end and save 40 bucks I may have to move the hangers around but 40 bucks is a lot beer money

Thanks for the info. I didn't know about the wheelbase difference. I will look it up. I do know it is a closed loop system but my concern is that it is leaking after only 20 minutes idle. Should I replace the bottle and cap or am I looking at a new rad? Steam and liquid come out of the top and liquid from the bottom not a lot but it leaks.

1. is there really any difference between the tailpipe for the 7 foot bed and 6 foot bed, or is the pipe for the 7 foot bed just a foot longer at the tip? (the tailpipe for the 7 foot bed is half the price of the 6 foot one, so if I can just take a foot off the end of the longer one and reposition the hangers, if necessary, I can save some money, which will be needed for something else down the road.) 2. how much coolant should be in the bottle when the engine is not running, the bottle on the mj I now have is about 2/3 full when it is not running and there seems to be an awful lot of pressure in it when the engine gets hot, which bring me to... 3. should the cap on the coolant bottle have a way to release the extra pressure when it builds up, right now when it gets hot it starts to leak from the hose in the bottom and the cap thanks

here's a video of the sound its making when the heater is on, its not the greatest quality, I used by blackberry for it but you get the idea http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHztQy71ylg

Its the blower that's causing problems. It is now squeeling when I am running the heater fan. So I'm just leaving it off for now.

i'm going to have to replace mine asap, its louder than the engine when it is running :grrrr:

I found the problem. Its coming from the fan when I turn on the heater. Hopefully its only the blower motor. Which is likely because when I turn it off the noise goes away.

Thanks for the advice on the tabs!!!

I am pretty well sold on this idea, I just want to make sure the gasket will cover up same area that the trim does and that I am not looking at any gaps or seeing the brackets where the old retaining clips would go into that are around the windshield. It seems to me that some of you have experience with this "ugrade" so is it safe to assume that it will cover everything up?

that's even better than trying to find trim from the junkyard, thanks a lot

So if the newer trim doesn't clip on like the old one, I could just pick one up from the wreckers and get the body shop to glue it on when they replace the windshield? I'm just looking to get "all my ducks in a row" over the next week or two. It looks like the weather is going to warm up over the next few days and I'm gonna push to get it on the road by the middle of the month and being able to simply glue a new exterior trim piece around the windshield will save me a lot of time. Thanks

I need to get exterior trim for my windshield and it looks like they went from a 5 piece setup to 1 piece in 95, does anyone know if I can use the 1 piece trim, or did they make too many changes between the years for it to work?

the sound isn't coming from the relays that are up by the battery, the sound is definitely from down low, as if it is near where the transmission meets the engine, is the fuel pump in the tank? or is it external but the comment about the relays clicking does give me an idea, maybe i could try disconnecting the starter solenoid and see if the clicking goes away

There is a loud clicking sound (with a low constant buzz) that starts when I put the key into either on or accessory (any position that will start powering the electrical), when I listen from outside it sound like it is coming from the canister area, when I listen from the inside it seems to be from the transmission tunnel area, the noise doesn't go away when the engine is running either. Ant ideas on what could be happening? Aside from this noise there doesn't seem to be any other problems with the engine.

nice price

I spent an hour going over everything today and the only item that doesn't work is the horn, holy crap, I think I lucked out with this one!!! I haven't taken out the carpet yet, but it makes a solid sound when I tap it with a hammer from below, still expecting it to be ugly once the carpet is ripped out though. I'll check the fuse and relay for the horn later this week, for now I ordered the parts to finish the lift, the p.p.o. only did the front, and the p.o. didn't get the parts from him to finish it, the rear is still stock. I also managed to find a centre console for only $50 ($40 US today) which I will pick up on Friday. I guess I will be tearing into the interior this weekend! http://picasaweb.google.com/canajien/ComanchePt2# if anyone knows how to modify if for a manual transmission then let me know. I'm guessing I can just remove the plate that goes around the auto shifter and fix the shift boot for the stick in it

I took the time to look when I got home from work today, even though its slightly colder than a witches t*t in November, but not cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey, and the verdict is: stock shackles, I am going to follow up with rough country and see what I can do about ordering the "missing" parts, I think it will be to get the lift finished as opposed to going back to stock thanks for your help guys

That is one heck of a project :bowdown:

thanks, the back of the truck is almost two inches lower than the front, but the shocks in the back were never replaced, the shocks up front are new however its obvious that i have a lot of work ahead, but the truck cost me less than $400 CDN

Got plenty of 2x4 for that. I'm going to cut the cancer out and spray the inside with rust bullet before patching it and fish plating the patch. If I get a temp permit next week then its off to the body shop for a windshield and if I am lazy I may just let the muffler shop do the exhaust.