man of la manche

checked the brake booster, nothing seemed out of order, however one of the clamps on my fuel filler hose was too rusty to reuse when I put the bed back on and I just forgot about replacing it until today. I got a new clamp and put the vent hose back where it should be on the filler neck, then I turned the key into the on position for a few seconds to let the fuel pump prime and maybe pressurize the tank, it started with no problem and I was able to drive it around the block without the stall returning, I think I will look into a new gas cap this week (it can't hurt) hopefully this was all that was wrong, but I will check the other sensors out on the weekend along with a more thorough inspection of the brake booster vacuum line I already dumped a can of throttle body cleaner down its throat last month, paying close attention to make sure I hit the sensor side of the throttle body, so hopefully that rules out needing to clean the iac, those torx bolts piss me off and I would rather avoid removing them if possible thanks for the suggestions!

I've been shopping: 95 XJ Doors with power windows and locks, I made sure to get the cross wiring harness to tie between the doors, but there were no keys, I guess I will figure that one out later relatively rust free, which can't be said for my current doors Dana 30 with 3.55 gears of a 95XJ with abs & Chryco 8.25 (3.55 gears as well) from a 92XJ these are a upgrade over my factory D30/D35 combo with 3.07 gears, these axles were cheaper than just getting a new ring and pinion for only one of the axles I have now AX15 from a 95 YJ rebuilt last summer and he threw in the transfer case, clutch, flywheel and pedals, the pukeguts tranny I have now is running pretty smooth but we all know it will blow up eventually, and when it does, I already have a replacement http://picasaweb.google.ca/canajien/ComanchePt6# I have now broken the $1k barrier (about 800 in USD) along with a replacement rocker and two new floor pans, and aside from a couple of quarts of tremclad, some herculiner, a new head unit/stereo and a new windshield I don't have any plans for any other new/old parts unless necessary, half the fun has been searching and bargaining for the goodies, the other half is putting it all together and making it work

I am ditching the bench, I hope to get it out in the next two weeks, but I have to warn you that the sliders do not work properly and there is some rust damage. If you are still interested in it I will try to get some pics of the brackets for you and I will be careful when removing it. The passenger side is pretty good, but the driver side bracket is a bit like swiss cheese.

I highly recommend the plastic peanut butter jar in terms of holding a seal, I have one on my vacuum pump for brake bleeding, and unlike the pos plastic canister you get with the pump it never leaks not sure how it would hold up to the heat though, I guess if you ran enough house and mounted it closer to the fender you would be good to go

you never know what is going to come loose, it looked like the p.o. tried to cram springs for a 6 inch lift while only having what seems to be parts for a rough country 4 inch lift up front, when I say I had to jack it up, I really had to jack it up, even with the spring compressors I had to cut part of the bottom coil out of each spring to get them out, so needless to say I think I will give all the lines a once over before I start checking sensors, and I think I will start with the brake booster and then move on to the IAC thanks

I had the front end jacked up for a couple of day while I took the coil springs out to cut then down a bit and now it stalls when I am braking. I can start it and let it run/idle for half an hour and nothing happens, if I drive at a slow speed I am fine when braking, but once I am up around 2nd gear or higher the engine just dies when I brake and it starts right back up, I did a search on "engine stalling" and came up with a few things to check out later today, sensors, fuel pump ballast etc... I am not sure it is the fuel pump as I can rev it high in the driveway take my foot off the gas and nothing happens when I tap the brake, its only a problem when the truck is actually moving and it wasn't a problem before I jacked up the front end. Any other suggestions as to what to look for when I get back at it tonight?

After you check your gauge and confirm it is working and you do have a leak then you could give these a try 1. http://www.barsproducts.com/1050.htm it's meant to stop leaking at the main seal and you're supposed to use it at every oil change, I figure if it works and costs the same as the similar amount of oil you're using then its worth giving it a try 2. find a double lipped main seal I am having the same problem with a small leak on the main seal and I'm gonna try the 1st one if I can find it up here, if not then what's another afternoon in the garage with a 6 pack and the radio?

I don't think that cluster is going to work for you, you might need to find an older one, probably 90 or older

Since I last updated: -completed patching and plating the frame, gave it a coat of rust bullet and 2 coats of black anti rust paint -replaced the gasket in the oil pan, 95% of the leak is gone, it looks like the rest is coming from the rear main seal, damnit -replaced the bed, unfortunately it looks like I am going to need to add a couple of washers to the rear, the rear wasn't bolted down when I got it and I just used a couple of washers that were the same thickness as the ones that were on the front section, I may just remove the front ones and double up the rear instead -added longer shackles to the rear leaves and cut two coils out of the front springs, it looks a lot better now, and the scary body roll when cornering has mostly disappeared -replaced all the hard brake line from under the cab to the rear axle, installed the longer 95 dakota rear brake hose, replaced the hard lines on the rear axle and installed new wheel cylinders -started working on getting it ready for windshield replacement, took care of the clip posts by grinding them off and started to work on the rust spots above the windshield, I cleaned out all of the rust and gave it a coat of rust bullet, I will probably sand it and use another couple of coats to fill in the low spots a bit more before applying bondo, but there is one hole to patch http://picasaweb.google.ca/canajien/ComanchePt5# this weekend I am off to pick up a d30 from a 95 cherokee with 3.55 gears for the front, and a chryco 8.5 with 3.55 for the rear, along with a previously enjoyed windshield that is crack and chip free

All of the other lights work, turn, hazard, brakes, reverse but the tail lights and license plate lights do not work when I turn on the headlights. Which of the 3 lights in the corner lens are supposed to turn on? (top, middle or bottom) I think I will start with the bulbs and go from there. I also took the bed off to fix the frame and I only put one ground screw back when I replaced the bed on the weekend (behind the driver side lens cover on the bed) could I have missed another ground somewhere?

thanks, I picked up some turnbuckles from the late night home despot last night and they should do the job

The tank on my rig was attached to the frame with metal straps and screws, so i bought some proper straps to hold it in place, they are too short to reach the bed and it look like there might be some kind of bolt with a j hook at the end that holds it to the bottom of the bed. Am I correct in assuming this? and if so what size/length bolt should I be looking for?

thanks, and to think I've been busting my hump looking for an abs axle while car-part.com has plenty of the non abs ones automan2164, I apologize for the minor detour I took your thread on

Do all of the newer axles have bigger u-joints or just the ones with ABS? I thought it was just the ones with ABS that had bigger u-joints on the axle shafts (not the drive shaft).

:agree: , if I had the time and equipment I would look into getting some 3x6, and run it all along the frame from front to back, slice off one of the 3" sides along the length and you could probably notch it or make pie cuts in order to bend and shape it along the frame, especially in the area below the rear of the cab, it would give you very smoothly rounded corners at the bottom but I have neither so patch and plate will do for now, and a nice smooth plate along the sides will have to wait until later, I'm in a bit of a rush as I am without a vehicle right now, I figured it would take 4-6 weeks to sell my 02 ram, but it was gone in 2 days, my wife thinks I was a bit foolish to let it go so early, but my friends think I am "visionary" for proceeding with the comanche

I've been patching the holes and plating over the patch, I've been using 1/8 on the sides and 3/16 flat bar for the bottom, I have been using 35 wire and setting the welder on a low heat level, just a bit below what it should be for welding 1/8 pieces topether, the really hard part is starting the bead on the new plate and trying to get it to suck the older steel into the puddle as opposed to dipping it straight across both pieces, this seems to work as it not only survives the bfh test but it withstands the really bfh http://picasaweb.google.com/canajien/ComanchePt3# sometime after it is finally on the road I will spend a couple of days plating the entire length of the frame, sure it may add weight, but I don't think its going to kill it, I'm not looking to build a trail buggy or an expedition vehicle, I just want a daily driver that will haul stuff around

sick minds think alike!! more progress to report: today I cleaned the surface rust off the gas tank and gave it 3 coats of rust inhibitor spray from princess auto (pa is the hoser version of harbour freight and the only problem people up here seem to have with it is that they will be out of stock on some parts, they never have enough grade 8 hardware when I am there and they never have a leather welding jacket in my size either), now the tank is shiny and black, its not like new but it's better than it was so it should be good for a few more years now got driver side frame rail under the cab done last weekend, it is now patched and plated, but I haven't cleaned it up like the passenger side, ran out of primer and today, in between coats of paint on the gas tank I started to repair the frame over the rear passenger wheel the bump stops were gone on both sides, so I am going to have to think about what I want to do for that, I may end up mount a couple of bump stops on the axle and the reinforcing the frame where the bump stops meet, but I haven't made my mind up on that yet http://picasaweb.google.ca/canajien/ComanchePt4# if all goes well I can get the rear drivers side frame done also and then get it cleaned up, put on a coat of rust bullet and put the bed back on

I guess it comes down to how it looks if I go see it. My wife caught wind of the idea and is offering to not only pay for the paint job on 33dd, but she's even willing to turn a colourblind eye should I choose yellow as the colour. I would just have em give it a coat of ppg acrylic enamel black, but it would be kind of fun to make her sweat it out. However, if it is straight, clean and has a d44 in the back, which I doubt being a 4cyl with auto, then I would have a hard time passing it up.

saw this on kijiji.ca while I was looking for comanches to scavenge parts from when I came across this: http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicle ... Z113123441 I already have one that I am working on (viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15130), but it is in parts all over my garage and I am maybe 6 weeks away from having it ready. Seeing as I sold my big 02 ram after only a week (I thought it would take me a couple of months to sell it) I am now without a vehicle, and it looks like this one would be more or less ready to drive around while I fix the other one, being an 86 it is now exempt from emissions testing. So if I could get it from him for $900 CDN with certification should I buy it?

I got the new bottle in, it feels like it is a lot more stout/sturdy than the one I took out. The level indicator tube/post was broken off inside the old bottle, so it's just as well that I replaced it. Thanks again for your suggestions/help.

finally got around to replacing the blower motor today and it did the job thanks for the suggestions

thanks, napa has the bulk brake line, it the fittings that are going to take 2-3 days, btw, it looks like the lines were replaced before as the lines from the master cylinder have female couplers on them around the fuel filter, so they were both two piece as opposed to one piece from the front to back

I had to remove the hard lines going to the rear axle in order to do some frame repairs and they disintegrated into several pieces so I need to replace them. I have searched but the only info I can find on them here is the diameter. I would make my own but napa is out of the fittings and canadian tire here only carries premade lines. So my question is this: If I decide I can't wait what length premade lines should I get? I have some pictures that I took showing me how they are coiled/wrapped at the axle end but I don't want to go too short with the line in case it caused problems, or could I just go straight to the back with minimal bends/coils and not have any problems? If I can get away with what is more or less a straight line then I can just measure it myself.

finally started to make some progress, it was worse than I originally suspected, as I was cleaning things up to begin welding it became aparrant that the frame was a lot thinner than I suspected, so there are lots of patches everywhere. I used 3/16 2x4 cut and shaped with an angle grinder to patch around the cab mount, 3/16 angle for the frame rail in front of the cab mount and a 3/16 plate to tie the two sides together outside near the cab mount under the passenger side on the outside underneath the frame inside near the cab mount under the passenger side on the inside http://picasaweb.google.ca/canajien/ComanchePt3# it's a bit rough, but that was the first time I have ever repaired a frame, and its a pain when you are laying on your back, maybe I should look into a lift for the garage ;) at any rate it should do the trick for now, I just sprayed some primer to keep it from rusting until tomorrow when I will strip the primer and hit it with a coat of rust bullet, I will also run a bead of seam sealer along the gaps and then give it a spray of undercoating until the summer. At some point during the summer I will hopefully be able to just plate the both sides of the rail and the bottom from the spring mount forward, if I don't have a plasma cutter by then I guess I will just take some cardboard templates to the steel shop and see how much they will charge cut some up for me, but I plan to have a plasma by then. I still have the area over the rear passenger side wheel, and while I was under there I noticed that the frame was rotting near the fuel filter, hopefully the weather will co-operate this week and I can get it all patched up by next weekend.

i had the wheels on my wrongler blasted and powder coated, you can get the idea from this picture