man of la manche

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicle ... Z230238002 he also has it posted on a local jeep site, and was offering it to me for much less, but I have no room for it yet

if you mean the red one I got from you, i think it was an 89, I found a home for it, the new guy had the time and he dug into it right away and converted it to 4wd if you're referring to the black 88, then yes it is still up on dollies in my garage

yes, I got the red truck from lil loco, the eliminator is gone now, I gave it to biggwheels for what it cost me to bring it home the black manche will probably still be around in the spring, but as the ad reads, cash isn't the only thing I will take for it ;) 8000lb winch rolling tool cabinet 50 amp plasma cutter are all acceptable trades and I may throw in a few $$$ depending on the condition of the items coming back my way I would even take a good chop saw plus $$$ for the truck

I'll see what I can get later this weekend, just sitting in the office thinking about it right now. Keep in mind that the main leafs are new so a picture might not be all to useful in this case

Thanks, it could be possible that they p.o put a set of metric tonne leafs on it, despite the fact it wasn't enough lift

I think the p.o. accomplished some kind of half assed lift on the rig I now own by creating some kind of leaf pack, I corrected the lift by adding some drop shackles and getting some new main leafs built so everything is nice and even now, the rear end was lower before, and it is now about a half inch higher than the front So I was wondering how many leafs (or is it leaves) should be on a "normal" factory leaf pack on the 4x4 model? including the main leaf I have 5 on mine

I am still plodding away despite the fact I may have to sell it... The axle swap is about 75% done, I just need to redo the brakes and brake lines, but all of the hard work getting the old axles out and putting the "newer" ones in has been completed. I also found a local guy who builds leaf springs for large trucks. He built two new main leafs for me (I broke one of the main leafs taking out the old axle), and now that they are in with the newer axle sitting on them it looks like I will get another inch or two of lift in the rear, and it only cost me $160, much cheaper than getting junkyard leafs. Not quite new but better than used. Once the brakes are done I will get to work on replacing the floors.

thanks!!! the 2nd link is exactly what I was looking for

I have a set of 95 xj doors with power windows that I am going to put in my 88 manche, however, the power windows have a light blue factory tint and I would rather use the glass from my 88 manual doors can anyone tell me if the glass is the same shape (I assume that it is) and that the glass from my older manual doors will go into the power doors? does anyone have any tips on removing/replacing the glass in the doors?

Do I spy an across the bed toolbox? Is it metal? I "might" be interested.... you do see an across the bed toolbox, but its plastic, it is free, but it is in toronto

I put it in neutral and brought it home, barely going past 100kmh the whole way, it had been in my garage for a few days now, thanks for the advice

Finally got the time to take out the bench seat and tear out the carpet, and much to no one's surprise the floors are rotted: driver side (it's like paper) the passenger side is a bit better good thing I have some new floorpans coming on Friday However, its not all bad news, look what I got for free: 89 eliminator, 2wd the engine doesn't leak at all, but there is no interior, and the floors are about as bad as what I already have, but the "frame" is still solid the bed is in better shape than the black one so I am going to swap it over, yank the engine and tranny (its a pukeguts but it still shifts smooth), take everything else I need out of it to put on the black one and give the left overs away, all I hope to be left with is the cab and "frame"

neutral it is then this time tomorrow, I'll have two comanches in the garage

what's the world coming to when neighbours and friends help each other out? ;)

Thanks for the reply A tow truck is 200 the dolly is my neighbours and its free Guess the tow truck loses in this case

the good news is I am getting a 2nd mj with usable parts for $0, the bad news is that I no longer have the big ram truck which could pull it on a flatbed, I have a much smaller dakota which will only be able to pull it home on a tow dolly its a 2wd with manual transmission, and I am going 70km, about 45 miles, do i need to disconnect the drive shaft? can I put it in neutral, or should I put it in 5th and pull it home I've done a search on towing with a dolly but it the results turned up 4wd with 5spd and 2wd with automatic what's my best option to get it home

The good news: I put the wheels and tires that were for my wrongler on to the truck, the 29 x 10.5 trxs tires with powdercoated factory wheels look much better than the cruddy 26.5 x 9 no name winter tires on the dirty old stock wheels, they also give a better ride I also fixed my tail light problem viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16135 the bad news: it still stalls when I hit the brakes, and I am not sure why, it doesn't behave that way everyday, I guess I will have to start checking all the sensors/connections viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16351 there is a buzzing sound from the steering wheel when I hit the horn button, but no horn sound, I hope its just a short somewhere fuel gauge does not work after cluster swap viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16363 I guess I am going to need to give up on finding a tailgate in better shape than what I have now, so I will have to start by putting a new handle on it, I've seen that the S10 handle is a direct swap, so aside from fixing the rust it should be easy

ok, send me a pm when you think you will be in the area and I'll flip over my address

then I will be careful about removing it, let me know when you are going to be near Toronto, I'm without a vehicle until I finish this truck so I can't really come out to meet you with it

there is no power coming to the blue wire at all, I even tested it up where it comes out of the cab, before I go tearing out my entire cab to trace the wire back can anyone tell me where it connects to the main headlight wire, everything else works just fine back there I suppose I could always just rig it directly to the headlight switch, but I would still need to know whereabouts I can find where the wire to the rear lights starts

There's not much you can test, and you don't really need a multimeter to do it. This is for an '88, correct? The resistance range for the sender is 0 to 88 ohms. 88 is for full, 0 is for empty. To test the gauge, unplug the connector at the tank. That leaves an open circuit to the sender. The gauge should peg to the right. Then take the chassis side of the connector and jumper the smaller colored wire to the black. That closes the fuel gauge circuit with zero resistance. The needle should swing to empty. If the needle doesn't respond when you do this, then either the gauge is bad or there's a wiring problem. Since your other gauge works, it's not a wiring problem. There are three contacts on the gauge -- it operates by comparing two paths to ground. I guess you could use a multimeter to verify that both paths have continuity, but I've never done that, it isn't described as a test in the FSM, and I don't know exactly what you'd be looking for -- other than verifying continuity. you guys are good, I guess I should get that fsm which floating around here

the big gauge didn't have a warning light, I just took the "guts" from it and attached it the the little gauge face, the warning light is on a separate board and uses two different/separate circuits from the fuel gauge, the small gauge has 5 screws (2 for the fuel light) and the big gauge only has 3 screws

I managed to swap the faceplates on my fuel gauges. I took the one with the big face plate out of the old cluster and got the small face plate from the tach cluster on it and it seems to be working right now, the needle actually moved to where it should be according to the old gauge (the needle on the tach cluster fuel gauge was pointing dead south, as opposed to being somewhere between empty and full). I'll drive it around for a couple of days and see if swapping the guts fixed my problem, I will probably need a new needle for the smaller gauge, the other one broke off and I ended up "altering" the big needle to fit the smaller face. At the very least if the low fuel warning light comes on then I'll be good to go for now, I'll just strap a steel jerry can in the back with "emergency" gas for when the light comes on if I'm not near a gas station. It's not perfect but I really hate looking at the cluster with the idiot lights. The printed circuits on the back of the cluster are in pretty good condition and I had no problem getting the connectors in, but as for testing the gauge... what should I be looking for with a multimeter? I have never done anything like that before, I have only used it to test the battery to see if the alternator is charging and as a tester to see if power is being sent through wiring

the only oem gauges I have found so far are the big ones for the non tach cluster, if anyone knows where a small oem fuel gauge can be found then please let me know

I did the cluster swap and the fuel gauge doesn't work. I replaced the original no tach cluster, and it worked just fine, which leads me to believe that the fuel gauge is either pooched in the the cluster with tach. Has anyone replaced their gauge with an aftermarket one? I really hate those idiot lights, but the lack of a working fuel gauge is disconcerting. I found this one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Cyberdyne-Digital-Fu ... .m20.l1116 but I would rather get an analogue gauge to at least keep it similar like this one http://www.quadratec.com/products/95205_201.htm even better would be finding a way to get the stock one in the tach cluster working again.