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saw an AMC 20 in an 86 MJ in the boneyard with the 2.8L and a stick shift. Didn't notice what gears. Without crawling around and reading the code off of the axle, what's the likely gearing? Is there a database somewhere for drivetrain/axle gear combinations?? Thanks Tom

well, I left the cannister clamp loose after removing it to get the filter off. I'll take a pic from a different angle and then post it here. Next oil change, I think I'm taking things apart.

Thanks, Jeff, it's awesome, and definitely better than the FSM diagram! I'm pretty sure I'm close to right on this one, but I'm going to double check based on your good-running 2.5. I think I have em very close to correct, though. Tom

Hey Jeff - Thanks. I'm with you on the TB ports. Those 2 vac ports, however, on the back of the TB cover, I have screwed up. The upper port is a dummy port, just a plug, so it's weird it goes to the EGR solenoid. Which part of the EGR solenoid does the other end go to? And I guess the vacuum line to the EGR valve goes to the other part of the EGR solenoid. Also, you mentioned the vac port on the intake manifold -- mine's L shaped, so it has 2 ports, really. Where does the other line from it go? Thanks a ton, Jeff! Tom

Ok, so my first 4.0! 88 longbed 4x4 with the BA10-5 tranny. Guy on the yahoo groups was selling it, someone called it a rust bucket. It's not that bad, but the bumper did fall off because the brackets were so rusty! Seems to run good, 166K on the clock. I changed the oil and found the filter angled strangely - can the oil filter adapter be turned or angled??? I actually had to take off the charcoal cannister to get it on and off!

I'd be really surpsied if my new semi-metallic combo (intake exhaust) gasket was leaking. :eek:

the bending is done, I'm wondering why the engine is racing...any ideas?

Ok, So I finally fabbed the steel EGR line and the engine is still off to the races. I have all the vacuum lines hooked up as in the diagram, but it's really taching like wild (no tach so no idea). I put on an exhaust header, so I had all the lines off, the intake, and put it all back carefully. WTF would make it idle like this? Some people thought the EGR tube being off, but now it's on, and I have an open header...could the engine be reading this as a lean condition and racing? I am stumped... :hateputers: Tom

Just bought an 88 4.0/5speed long bed, and it has neither the truck mirrors nor the "sport" mirrors (black/chrome, like the XJ). It has some TINY regular black rear views bolted into the sheet metal on the door. Bought it from the original owner, who said that's how it came. Do the truck mirrors bolt into the same holes? I'd rather have those. Anyone got any?! :brows:

That's ok, I think I have it figured. Someone over on 4bangerjp had a more detailed diagram than the one above, and that clicked it for me! This project has been so bad. I still haven't gotten the EGR tube back on because you have to fab it, and I'm a bad steel fabber, and a worse TUBE fabber. There's weld everywhere, and the pipe looks like a pretzel. Bought another MJ just to drive around in while this project is laid up!! I've truly lost it.. :nuts:

Yup, I'm a dope; that was the problem. Now for vacuum lines, any one know what lines go to the back of the air cleaner??? One's a working port and one's just a plug. Any 2.5L guys out there???? Tom

I'll email him. If we can get FIVE people in on it, we can get the deal.

could it be because the EGR air tube is not hooked up to the header? It needs to be modified ?? :headpop:

Yeah, I think I'm good there. When you open the throttle, that little lever gets pushed downwards, right? Seems to move freely. :hateputers:

yup, the brake booster line is connected. I checked the connector at the TPS, pulled it off and put it back in. Never took the TPS off the throttle body for this project...

Thanks for trying, guys. I have the first book, I just can't make heads or tails of the diagram when I look under my hood. There are FIVE ports in question: two on the side of the throttle body, facing the valve cover. I think one goes to the MAP and one to the rear grommet on the valve cover. There is an L valve on top of the intake manifold, and I'm not sure where the lines that draw vacuum from these run. Finally, there are two ports on the backside of the air cleaner. The bottom one is just a plug, in otherwords it's not functional. I'm not sure what line goes to the top one. Just so I'm not blind to what I might have done wrong here, if it's not the vacuum setup (and believe me, I've tried a few different ways), what else would cause my engine to tach at about 5 grand and stay there on startup? The throttle is closed, I even disco'd the IAC motor. What have I done???? :mad:

Hey Pete, If there was, mine's missing. I crossed something up during re-assembly. I had removed the thermostatic air cleaner stuff, and put a screw in the vacuum line a couple of years ago, and no problems. So I made some bonehead vacuum line swap and now the truck is racing like you can't believe. Tom

ugh those crazy lines. Just putting my 87 2.5, now with clifford 4cyl header, back together. Anyone got an online vacuum diagram so that I can remember where all the lines go??? Thanks Tom

I custom make the headliner panel. It is a hand formed stiff cardboad panel material and it is already covered ready to install. I would consider a group purchase of atleast 10 people. Panel cost would be $105 with shipping included anywhere in the United States. You can choose your color, and it will be done, and delivered for a buck oh five. Do we have nine other folks (min) that want in?? Tom

bet your mom was real happy to have a junkyard part on the couch too! LOL :cheers:

Thanks, Pete. I pulled off the a pillar and didn't see any tracking. I pulled off the windshield cowl and stuck the hose in there, and sure enough, water becan to slowly come in. Hard to see from where -- I need to pull the interior and carpet apart a little more. I think that rules out the windshield, unless there are TWO sources for leaks. That wouldn't surprise me, somehow. :wall:

it could be anywhere. Anyone have any experience on where they've ACTUALLY FOUND a leak?

Hey guys, I have a bad water leak on the driver's side firewall in my 87 Laredo. Sad part is, I had the really thick jute padding for noise reduction, and it's wrecked. Worse yet is the build sheet was under the carpet on that side! Trashed. Finally, floor rot is starting. It's coming down the firewall, so where should I be looking? I've heard I should take off the cowl panel, but what am I looking for? Are there common spots of leakage? Passenger side is bone dry. Thanks! Tom :mad: