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Yeah, they do have a coolant passage, but I think it's up front?? Where do you suppose it would be leaking from, the gasket?

I've had this antifreeze smell since I got the engine (2.5) rebuilt last summer. I've tightened up hose clamps, replaced hoses, etc. I had a couple of badly installed valve stem seals, so I had the head off this summer, and put it back without incident - new head and intake gaskets. I was messing around with the MJ today and noticed a poof of smoke coming off the header down low, as antifreeze was dripping off the driver's back corner of the block. I can't get a really good look at where it's coming from, but just above where the coolant is pooling, there looks like a plug is screwed into the block, and has an allen head. It's not a freeze plug, bc they're hammered into the block, right? I'm HOPING that it's not head gasket, but I would think I'd have other problems (vacuum leak, etc) other than some dripping antifreeze. Ideas? Reassurance? I'll kill myself if I have to take the head off again. Thanks Tom

The stock unit? It's a clutch-type limited slip, not a locker. No, the CJ had a 2-piece hub. The hub part is separate, and attatched to the axle shaft with a nut to hold it and a tapered spline to keep it from spinning (in theory). The MJ is a 1-piece axle shaft & hub assembly. You are correct. I had thought the later CJ AMC20 had a one-piece shaft. Same width, still. I may have to get some help installing this LSD; never set up gears before... Tom

Wow, I've let this axle sit for a year. With the engine problems resolved, I'm going to finally get to this. FYI the MJ AMC20's are the "wide-track" version, same as used in the CJ's. I just got all new brake hardware, wheel cylinders, shoes, drums. Gonna pull the shafts out and replace the wheels bearings. Going to look into that rebuild kit. I bought a rebuilt Trac-Loc for this rear, anyone have a link to installing one?

Jeff: Wagner's Auto Salvage 4115 South Alston Ave., Durham, NC 27713 Toll Free: 800.669.1673 || Phone: 919.544.1729 || Fax: 919.572.6426

Hey, I have a rusty old rust-belt LWB box. Car-part.com listed a reasonably priced ($300) one that is supposedly in good shape. If anyone goes to Wagner's in Durham, NC, I'd love to know about it! Thanks Tom

My rpm's drop when I turn the wheel at low speeds or at a stop. Something in that switch circuit is bad; how do I test the switch itself? Any known procedures? Thanks! Tom

I had mine bored .030 over, put on a Clifford header, used Yella Terra roller rockers, and installed an electric fan. The fresh rebuild in itself would have pepped it up, but I no longer have to downshift on hills on the interstate! I just saw a guy on Naxja.org selling a 2.5L cam/lifters set. If I hadn't just re-done my engine, I'd jump on that. They are hard to find.

There ISN'T an adjustment on the alternator? I figured it must move, since the bracket is slotted. Pretty sure I'm putting it on right, I'm going to review the diagram to make sure.

Anyone? It's got to be the alternator, I just don't know how to move it around!

Hey guys- on the 87 2.5, is there any adjustment for the alternator? Everything I've read said you adjust the belt tension by the PS pump. I never had any problems with this until I rebuilt my 2.5. In putting everything back together out of the car, I noticed that the alternator and bracket would only fit on one way, even though the bracket is slotted, as if you could slide it back and forth. After that, the belt was always too tight. I mean, I can get it on there, but I have to get the lip over the PS pump and turn the engine. And the PS pump is adjusted all the way in. I've loosened all the alt. bracket bolts and can't get any movement out of it to help me out; I guess I could buy a little longer belt, but I'm confused...any help out there? Thanks Tom

HC, looking at those part #'s I wonder if I got a short belt in the first place but just had it set up to fit. Looks like a 90mm difference in length? Hmmm I may have to look into that.

Hey Jeff, how are you? Coming up to NJ this summer? The pump bottoms out when I push it against the engine - clacks against the adjuster at full travel, so it's not stuck. It only has maybe 2-3 inches of travel in total. I've always adjusted it at the pump, so this is weird. HC: It's the same belt I've used for years, just not a good fit after R&Ring the engine. I noticed that the alt bracket looks like there's room for adjustment. I took the alternator off recently to change it (didn't change it when I did the engine), and tried to adjust it, but it only wanted to go on in one position, and wouldn't fit right unless I put it there.

Anyone?

Thanks, guys! -Tom

I'm on a roll today. I'm replacing all 4 tie rod ends (have a front end clunk 4 years after doing the ball joints, believe I have the original 1987 TRE's on there, so they're overdue). When doing the outers, if I count turns carefully, can I be reasonably sure I don't need to have the vehicle aligned afterwards? Thanks! :idea:

Hi guys- I became a pro at adjusting my serp belt with the PS pump adjuster over time. When I replaced the engine last summer and re-installed the belt, the loosest fitting at the PS pump barely got the belt over the pulleys- it seemed tight. My alternator crapped out a month back and when I replaced it, I saw there were some adjustments to be made at the alternator, but it would only go on in one position, so I left it. I BARELY worked the belt over the ps pump pulley in adjusting it. Any tricks for adjusting at the while the belt is on? I adjust by feel, but it feels tight. I guess if I can work the belt on with the PS pump at the loosest setting, it's probably not too tight. These are the kinds of things that keep me up at night. :dunno:

If it's a manual or floor shift automatic, you can go through the floor and get those two top bolts. That's the easiest way. :thumbsup:

The a/c compressor is making some awful noise. When I replaced the engine last summer, I replaced the condensor just to be complete, but I really don't care if it works or not at this time, not interested in the expense. Well, with the compressor making all this noise, I'm worried about seizing and snapping the serp. belt. Got the bearing for $24 or so from rockauto. What is there to this? Is it straightforward? The FSM makes it look like you need a couple of pullers, one is like a steering wheel puller, but the other -- ??? Anyone done this? Thanks Tom :waving:

check bendix ...get the part # from the catalog on rockauto.com

OK, Here's the update. My mechanic friend brought home a good snap on cylinder leak tester. All my cylinders are <15%! So it's not a compression ring. My friend is still convinced it's something in the head, so we pulled the valve cover off, and all the valve seals looked good - none lifted up. He thinks it's valve guides, and it may well be. I changed out all the Champion truck plugs with NGK one heat range hotter than stock, checked the dist. cap, which is practically brand new, and we'll see. I'm going to take it on some good long highway drives the next couple of weeks and see if I'm using oil/fouling plugs. If I'm fouling plugs, the head is coming off and going back to the builder. I'm relieved it's not bottom end- I 'd really hate pulling the engine again. Now the a/c clutch pulley is getting noisy. Got to love old cars, it's always something! :fs1:

Not to hijack, but I was just thinking of this today with my 87 2.5L. When I had the engine out last year, I replaced the radiator and condenser, though I knew the compressor is probably shot, just in case I'd want to get it going someday. So now the compressor clutch bearing is getting noisy, and I don't want it to seize and snap my belt. Can the bearing be changed on-vehicle? Should I just find another used compressor? I don't care if it works right now, but I guess if I'm going to swap it out, maybe I should find a good used one....thoughts? Is there an idler pulley on old 2.5s? I wouldn't mind bypassing it for now, either. Tom

She actually runs really nice and smooth. Fresh rebuild + Yella Terra roller rockers + Clifford header and it has nice pull. No more downshifting on hills on the highway (with 31s). I ran dino oil for the first 3-4K miles, was consuming what I thought was too much oil, and I switched over to full synth, and without any scientific measurement, seems to be using less. There was some early plug fouling on rebuild, but I was having MAP sensor issues, and a friend with the MT2500 helped me get everything in tune. I had no idea that 2+3 were fouled until I took them out to do the leak down test.... Going to talk to the "mechanic" who did the official leak down test today. Results later... :ack:

Right; sorry. I meant valve guides, not seats. He did bore the engine .030 over, and the understanding was that he was going to put in the appropriate pistons for that bore. What kind of rings he used, I do not know. He did all the assembly of the engine, and gave me back the block to bolt the accessories and trans onto. I do see occasional puff of blue smoke on startup, but would valve seals foul plugs (oil fouled) as badly as a poorly seated ring? Thanks guys Tom