Str8OuttaBallard

The prob I had was holding onto the nut (special welded on wings/tangs) You are right it is Metric... like almost everything Comanche... therefore the bolt must be 12 or 13mm... I ordered a new one & it didnt have the tangs on the nut... before I use it I will have to stick a welding rod to it... so it won't spin when you tighten it... On my MJ you can't get a wrench on it...

so the Metric Tone makes it ride pretty stiff, yes? Stiffer than stock, right? I have the RE adj track bar and the only prob with that thing is that it wears out (track bar) bushings w/the stock 1/2" bolt... I didn't have access to an impact gun so drilling it out and putting the heavy duty bolt wasn't an option when that thing went out... (no holder on the nut for under the shock mount)... I got less than 6k mi out of the first RE track bar bushing...

Hellcreek on eBay want's $470 or so shipped... must not be the same guys!

Yes lifted... I have the RE 4.5" or 5" XJ kit w/Rancho Add a leafs (basically it's lifted as far as you can go w/o lengthening the drive lines and it's spring under axcel w/RE long shackles)... anyways the springs are sweaken the heck out of my ears... I lubed 'em up w/Formula 8000 and that helped for a day or two...

Does anybody know of an aftermarket Co. that makes new leafs for the MJ?... Only ones I have seen are these... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-93-Jeep-MJ-Comanche-Metric-Ton-Rear-Springs-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33584QQihZ015QQitemZ250422389625QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I'm not familiar w/this Co... Hellcreek... are they any good? I called a few places such as ARB/OME and they all say they don't know of any new springs... I have the Rancho add a leafs but I can always get new of those

I have seen the idle switch go for over a $100 on eBay... that's the part I've been looking for... the alternator would be nice also... lots of good parts to build with... (I'm taking a break from building for the most part)

I have a '89 renix ecu and a '92 donor ho and everything works fine... though I am using the '89 manual not the 92 auto that the HO was bolted to...

Not nessecerily... It raised my rear abt 1" If I wasnt on a PDA I could explain... Even draw a diagram.... But I won't be in front Of another computer 4 14 hrs at least...

Thanks for your help... I have adaleafs & the RE XJ drop Shackles... Next time there is daylight & I'm not at work sun up to sun down I will take & post picks... Fri if I'm lucky

well sorry everybody... but I'm 40 and bought an Iphone because I'm not allowed to use a computer at work... (DOT) Deptartment of Transportation filters; hello? also I work a minumum 12 hrs a day... even today (sunday)... when I get home, after the drive time is at a premium... hence the Iphone... So if you guys wanna turn wanker on me... what ever... it's not like this thread has taught me anything so far that I don't already know... I had to sneak this message when the big boss got off the boat... such is the life of a "state worker"... now if I can get a signal I can send this... Enjoy the Supa Bowl... I'm watching it between landings in the Engine Rm of a ship right now...

Thats abt what i have... Just need 2 go a lb higher in rear The body makes it look like the front is higher w/o a load in the bed...

I'm looking 4 new rear MJ springs.... I want addaleafs.... I have addaleafs currently, had them rearched about a year ago but want the rear abt an inch higher... Suggestions? Any thoughts?

Well I finally heard back from ProtoFab... $362 + 101 in shipping and it's unfinished? and what about the license plate lights? Tomken is 540 + 45 shipping powder coated.... easier to just pay Tomken for the powder coating... rust is an issue in WWa... especially when you can't afford a garage.

Seems like I will go with Tomken just like I thought before I asked all you guys... tracked down an email address... and waited for responses... I guess... Or I might just buy this one.... http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/1007720609.html

Mines got a rehostat controller, a sender/temp prob off the inlet from the h20 pump, and is in series w/the temp sender. It's completly dependant on the exit temp of the colling h20... which in turn helps the thermostat regulate the proper temps... I guess it's a matter of personal preference but my AC blows cold for the month or so that I use it out of the year and the engine keeps from overheating... I've seen some cool clowles though.... so what ever floats your boat

Thanks hornbrod. I will look into the Hellas :popcorn: i've heard good stuff about the Hella lamps and h4 kit... I've heard it much more affordable and you can upgrade the bulbs and or wiring later to suit your brightness needs... it's a long story but if I had it to do over again I would haver bought the Hella H4 kit w/the 60w bulbs included and just slowly fine tune it until I had everything dialed and cost effective as possible

thermister controllers? what are those? It's this controller that varies the temp when the electric fan kicks on and off... It's adjustable between 160 F and 220 if I recall... That adjusting the temp to kick off high in the winter and low in the summer works for me just fine.... I have a 170 F thermostat that I sometimes run instead of the 195 F one also... Last summer it was in the upper 90s a few times and we had a snow storm last month that had the city in the 20s.... most of the time the weather is in the middle... The Renex closed system gave up the ghost a couple of summers ago and I was advised to go to this set up w/the open radiator conversion (in my 89 MJ) Not sure if you want a cowl or lovers for aesthetics or not... most peeps go to a cowl over cooling on an MJ if I'm not mistaken.

The guards I got require that you remove the lamp mounting surround, and install the clips underneath. That's why the surrounds get bent out of shape upon reinstallation. Next time, I'll just RTV them onto the lamp itself. I wasn't smart enough to think of that the first time around. Good to know; may try the RTV trick myself

Being how long that decal has been on there and still surviving, I would say it was done with a gerber edge or similar machine that prints on vinyl using foils instead of inks. It wouldn't be rub on, but rather an adhesive sign vinyl. I have a part time job making signs like that and can make single color decals in my basement on a vinyl cutter. I didn't make that sign, but have done many others like that. One time I noticed a set of stickers like this in a USA flag pattern and somebody else told me that multiple colors wouldn't be possible.... it looked like this... would the Comanche tailgate decals be able to be done up in a flag pattern?

Who did that decal for you? Is it a rub on? So do these stone gaurds just mount under the light fixtures? Thanks for your help everybody!

I fitted them on my rig because most of my off-road travel is in Baja, and often in mixed convoys of 4WDs and bikes while we move to a remote location to set up, so rocks are always getting thrown around as we drive. I get rocks when traveling to and from the passes around here (pac NW)... sometimes on fire roads shuttling mtb's This forum is productive... I should have got off the mtb forums years ago and concentrated on this venue....

do I see them on your turnsignal lights? same as for the wrangler?

I like your rig... where did you get that sticker on your hood? so like these?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Headlight-Stone-Guards-Black-Mesh-Regal-Malibu-Cutlass_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38661QQihZ018QQitemZ280303300626QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I was wonderin' about if the YJ lights were the same... posting.php?mode=quote&f=2&p=143882#

thermister controllers are about $50

would a thermistor mod help? that way you can control at what temp the electric fan starts at... just a thought... I can set mine high for snow and low for heat waves