Cheech

There should just be a single bolt with a little metal tab that holds the end of the cable into the t-case. Once you remove the bolt and tab just wiggle it and it should pop right out. At least thats how it was on my 86, could be different on the newer models.

When I had to pull my cluster it was in there so tight that I had to go underneath and unhook the cable from the T-case and then unhook it at 2 other points along the cable. Then I had to reach under and pull it through the firewall at the same time as trying to pull the cluster out. Just glad I didnt break it!!

I've done some searching around this site for bed rail caps, many have said Dakota or S-10 will probably fit. What's the verdict on the best ones for a LWB MJ since no one makes model specific ones for our trucks? Has anyone bought any and been happy with the fit?

I'm going to head to the local JY this weekend to grab a new temp gauge and hopefully all will be well once its in place. Are there any resistors or anything else that may be shot or does it sound like I have isolated the problem?

Problem solved :cheers: . Pulled the temp gauge, installed a new fuse, put the cluster back in and everything seems good. But what would cause the temp gauge to go bad???

Ok, put the cluster back in, turned the key to on, and the temp gauge went to the max and then i could smell burning. Checked the fuse and its blown. Have the cluster out again and the burning smells like its coming from the temp gauge area. What would cause that to happen?

Looked to removed the chime module, but its already gone. Next I installed a new 7.5amp fuse with the instrument cluster removed. Tried to find a bad ground by using a test light between the negative post and the disconnected negative battery terminal (as per the Haynes manual), but it didnt light, which i guess is good. Then I started the truck let it run for a while then turned it off and checked the fuse and its still good :D . Next I am going to try hooking the IP back up and seeing if it blows then.

Thanks I'll give that a try this weekend. Why do you think the charger would do that to the electrics? it doesnt have that much power, I mean it wouldnt even start the truck on the start function until I gave it some charge. Or could it just be a fluke occuance?

Thanks for the reply Eagle. I'm pretty sure it was hooked up properly nothing seemed to be wrong at the time. Yesterday I took the entire dash apart and took the gauge cluster out hoping to find a melted connector somewhere but no luck as of yet. So the problem should be between the fuse panel and the gauges then or could it be anywhere??

I should also make note that the fuel gauge stopped working too.

Hey Everyone, since this is my first post I would just like to say thanks for adding me to the club!! I would also like to say that I love the site, even though this is my first post I have been on the site almost everyday since I bought my MJ in March. But now I have a question for the electrical pros. Last saturday I went to start the Jeep and the battery was dead, I had left the key on for a few days :mad: I had been doing some body work and had just finished putting all the turn signals back in place and was testing to see if they were all working. I guess when I was done I forgot to turn the key off. So I put our little charger on it set it to 75amp start but was so dead it wouldnt do anything. So I flipped it back to 12amp medium charge for 20 minutes or so then back to 75 amp start and it fired right up. But once it started I noticed that my gauges didnt work, volts, oil press, temp were all dead. I pulled the gauges fuse and it was blown. Replaced it with a new one and it blew instantly. Now I'm wondering if I cooked something when I boosted it with the charger?? What do you guys think?