driverdave

I am going to try since I have test fenders to practice on but if I have trouble with it my brothers friend owns a body shop and he will paint it for me, lol white hides flaws awesome the amount of bondo on the bed needs some thing that won't show it bad.

Your MJ looks nice white definitely a good color, mines either going to be white or orange so far leaning towards white, I looked at a lot of forums to see colors but none that caught my eye, I was also thinking using the same color as my XJ, 1973 metallic pearl blue, since I'm painting it myself no metallic or pearl I don't even know if the finish paint will come out good.

it looks like a solid beast and I finally see what the MJ looks like white, I'm repainting mine and not sure what color, white is a choice hmmm I'm definately going to get a sample and spray a fender to see how it looks.

I scored a very nice Binks HVLP gun yesterday for free, online price is around $450.00, I will be deciding on final color in the next couple days and going to try to make it come out good.

went to take drivers side door off and ran into all the bolts were stripped, I don't feel like getting into grinding the bolt heads off so the door is staying on when I prime/ under coat/ rhino line every thing. What do you guys/gals think should I paint the rhino liner black or body color? Right now it's primed but easy enough to tape and paint black again. Rhino liner runs along the bottom from front to rear plus to the top crease on the bed ( I have pic posted before and after primer). Color options so far are orange line or white line, I am trying to look at as many colors as I can I am using Auto Color Library, but the samples are small.....http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/

Really? That's constructive criticism. It's not my truck and for some reason that comment bothers me. As Comanche Club President, I would like to apologize to you, driverdave, for the comments that were made by oregonman. Neither you or your MJ deserved it. Keep working at it, you are doing a great job! :thumbsup: It's all cool, I have said that to a few friends I thought the old owner used the ocean as a parking space. Now if he called it a piece of s*!t I would be offended, goblazers_6 Thank for the positive comments this is my first try at body work and my last lol.

I know they will I just threw them in to see how they looked, but also turned towards the corners I am aiming at a set of 4x6 speakers I am not sure if I will use 1 or 2 Zooks. Would love to install my 12" subs but no wheres near enough room.

I am doing tons of body work to mine at the moment, this is my first go around with body work all I can say is take your time, when you find rust in one spot check around for more rust, mine had rot under the paint ( the paint was tight and didn't look like it was rotted), I bought a hvlp (high volume low pressure) spray gun, compressor and other odds and ends for a couple hundred and I'm painting it myself to save money.

I am sure not trying to poke fun at your truck, but I have forgot what all that rust looks like, I grew up in Detroit and worked at a auto salvage yard for 10 years a while ago, Pete probably even know the one I worked at but I had forgot what the bottom of a rust belt vehicle looks like, I guess I have been spoiled in Tennesse. I changed front springs not to long ago and the ones off my 89 still had the rubber coating on them. I will say I don't miss the rust. I really am not dis-respecting your rig. Trust me I wish I was in a rust free environment lol, every time I think I got all the rust/rot I find more, I'm to the point now I'm pulling my hair out. Oh well at least I can take my time re building the MJ.

have fun building it up keep the pictures coming.

Did some wiring today trying to hide that mess isn't bad I did a sound check and need to replace 2 rca cables so off to the store other wise what you see is how/ what I'm using i'm going to cover it in fabric.

Finally a nice weekend, I enclosed my brothers garage thingy for my spray booth, while poking around I found water under my rug, not soaked but wet so I gutted the interior to see if I had rotted floors and was completely amazed at what they looked like, very little rust missing a drain plug, can't find the leak, so I then decided to run my stereo system, I am going to put my amp, cross over, cd changer and fuse block on the ply wood, I already installed my Boston Acoustic 4x6 plate speakers and 6 1/2" Audio Bahn, next is the tweeters and a set of 5 1/4, I have 2 choices either 2-12" subs or 2- 6 1/2" Bazooka Bass tubes.

I trimmed the front and back of my fenders, problem I am running into is the inner fender well, I trimmed both ends but the door end between the fender and inner fender wall there is a big gap looking at it it runs to the back end of the cab. Any ideas on how to fill this hole? last thing I need after the rot fight is to cause more rust/rot to happen. atm I hacked the inner well and it kind of fits but not a good fit.

so far my 87 XJ from the front doors forward every thing fits my 89 MJ. front seats, dash, drive train ( engine, tranny, transfer, front drive shatf) , front axle, rear needs spring and shock mounts re located but thats usable.

This dam rain is killing me, this week looks like a wash out for work (house painter) and as for painting the MJ it's out, when will the rain let up so I can actually make money and spend it on this rig, one good week of work I can spend a good bit of cash and maybe get it road ready. Tomorrow rain or shine I'm doing some sanding to the header panel and prepping the doors from the XJ parts rig.

Very nice I like the black dash better keep pics coming.

pics and updates primer 1/2 done. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17152

Before any one says you forgot to remove the stripes I know my heat gun died after I did one fender, no funds till the weekend to buy one. I sanded for 4 hours today had a lot of clear coat that flaked the hood took 2.5 hrs alone that flaking clear coat had primer on it so made it harder to sand out, I put a good base coat down have to work on some spots tape missed and re do the hood many dead bugs in primer lol, bolt fenders back on, pull hood tomorrow and clean the inside and prime, prime the header piece door jams and bed, I am not sure if I'm going to paint the Rhino liner black again or not so I primed it for now easy enough to tape and paint. Here are some pics of recent work. By the way this is my dog Nikita and she decided to chase a ground hog under my manch and didn't duck in time caught the tail pipe in her face. She missed that ground hog but got its sibling yesterday.

Maaco is guaranteed to charge you way more than you are expecting to pay, and will still do a crappy job that won't last but a few years. You may do a poo job that won't last, but you will learn, and save money at the same time! the bed I'm expecting to fall apart in a year or 2, its sides aree almost all bondo/glass, the cab should last a while not much bondo at all. Still a lot of work to do prep wise but today I'm spending the day on it.

I may be reading this wrong, but You don't want to paint right over top of your wet primer. You want to prime it, let it dry for at least 24 hours, then sand out all imperfections, and sand the entire surface smooth with 400-600, then paint it. if you look a couple posts up on Monday I primed a test fender so one is ready for final paint, I know I need to let the primer dry about 24 hrs. I finally bought batteries :clapping: so pics later today.

I was thinking about having Maco do the paint but lack of funds and truck not 100% ready for paint decided to do it my self. That craigs list add sounds like a decent deal.

:no: :no: :no: :no: :no: The only reason to remove the clear is if it's peeling. if it's in decent shape, you can sand it lightly with 600, and paint over it. Any where you sand through the clear, should be primed. Any where you do body work, needs to be primed. If you are priming the whole truck, then just buzz over the whole thing with 240, and prime it. You don't need to remove the clear. The factory finish, unless it is letting go, has a stronger bond to the panel than whatever primer you are using. Only remove the finish where you are feathering out imperfections, or doing bodywork. Find the post called, New Paint? I did a pretty thorough write up on advice for painting in less than perfect situations/for your first time. Hopefully it'll help! Thanks that will save me a lot of work, I have to sand the roof clear is pealing bad but rest seems tight. Tomorrow weather permitting I'm making a temporary tarp garage hoping this dang rain stays away then I might get some thing done lol. Planning on priming/painting Sat morning ride my atv for a few hrs then install my 2 painted test color fenders and see how it looks. Since I am changing the color would you recommend removing the bed to paint the back of the cab and end of the bed? Time is on my side I havent been rushing any thing and if it gets on the road this year great if not next year is fine.

I am now thinking about taking the bed off so I can paint the whole thing. Should I bother stripping the doors and hood to bare metal? All I have are electric power tools my air compressor isnt strong enough to run air tools continually. Should I just sand the clear coat or just scuff the parts.

looks nice man I hope my paint job comes out shiny like your did, I'm on hold until the rain goes away.