88MJofficer

This picture says it all This is a picture I took the day I brought her home, amazingly she still cleans up this nice

I replaced crappy Bosch plugs that the previous owner had in there with just stock Champions. I heard they are the best to run and thats when it started backfiring. It does run alot better with better response, but its just a little pop...nothing really extreme I just want it fixed. I don't think the cat is bad, the only thing I can think of is the rotor. I cleaned the contacts on the distributor so I really don't know.

I just replaced the o2 censor about two or three weeks ago. It has better throttle response and got my mpg back up to around 17 so thats not it.

yes they are stock control arms and i havent tightened the box yet. Also the tie rods, both ends of the drag link, and upper ball joints are covered in grease and the tie rods twist if you twist the tie rod bar. Does this mean they are bad or is it ok that the grease is comming out of the dust covers?

So my 88 backfires (more when its cold) inbetween shifting gears and when I left off the throttle. I just changed the plugs, but the wires, cap and rotor looked fine. What do I need to adjust or replace?

My steering is just real sloppy and it seems to have gotten alot worse since I bought it a year ago. I'm getting ready to buy all new steering componets (tie rods, drag link, etc.) and I want to make sure this is the problem before I buy all the stuff. I don't have death at all at any speed so I don't think its the track bar (it has a 3" lift with a stock track bar, but I'm getting ready to drill a new hole in the axle mount because I can't afford an adjustable one). It acts like its the tie rods because it will catch ruts in the road and follow it. There isnt any play in the steering wheel when its not moving, but it feels like there is when its moving. When I hit a bump in the road it feels like the wheels will wobble for a second, but then correct itself. I did just put new tires on it and for some reason I can't get the wheels to line up to adjust the toe in because I think the tie rods are not put on the tube correctly. So should I install all new steering componets and get it aligned or do I need to look other places (steering box, etc)?

I got my spray on done by line-x and I love it. It faded just a little bit, but so does every other companies. If I remember correctly it was around 300 or 400. It is worth it and its so strong its blast proof. :banana:

So yeah, I just went outside (good use of government work time eh) and turns out it just needed a little wiggleing to get it. Went right into neutral and 4 low. Thanks guys!

So today I was running through the gears on my t/c and I went from 2wd to 4wd no problem, but when I tried to shift into neutral to 4 low, it just stuck. I can't get the shifter lever to move past 4 high and I tried every configuration (clutch engaged, blipping the throttle, etc) and it still won't engage. I know it runs off of motor vaccum and I just replaced all broken or cracked lines so I know its not that. So what else could it be?

Ok TNT I think I'm catching on (sorry I'm more of a visual learner than reading) so lets see if I have this straight. I understand where to cut at the lower part of the bezel, right below the side markers straight across. Cut 1/8th" from the top of the flare on the actual fender and bend it up. I leave the original mounting holes for both corners and one hole in middle on the rear side of the fender which are fender tabs comming from the body. On the rear part of the fender cut on the seam and bend it out for support on the fender flare, but taper it off at the bend towards the rear of the top of the fender. Now hold the flare to the fender and mark new mounting holes and drill. Then use 1/4" bolts and larger rubber washers to mold better. If this is right let me know or change any part that is necessary. I borrowed this picture from rocklizardfabrications.com and if you could, can you mark it up where I need to cut and what not so maybe I could understand it better I would greatly appreciate it!

So TNT, do I need to take off the fenders, cut some of the inner fender, then drill new holes for the fender flares and fill in gaps? I'm kinda confused on how you did this, it looks great so I'm thinking about doing it tomorrow. If you could give me a mini write up on it that would be great. I have all basic tools, but I don't think my dremel could do that, maybe a jigsaw.

Ive been wanted to do this also (my 88 has a giant fuel gauge and no tach) can I just buy one off of ebay and swap it straight up and if I can how to I add the wiring for the tach?

Its a ground problem. I just recently had the same problem with my left front turn signal. I tore apart the bulb harness and found that the ground wire rotted away from the female conection. Replaced the female conector and the problem went away. Hope it helps and good luck.

My Jeep MJ has a 3" lift, 3" coil springs with just isolator and rear end has shackles and add a leaf. Well it isnt really level because I think the previous owner put in shackle and add a leaf thinking it would make 3" lift, but I think its a 4" lift (I have almost a 2" difference from front end and rear end measuring from top of tire and bottom of fender. My question is can I add a 1" coil spacer lift without adding extended brake lines and new shocks? It looks like it should make it, I just don't want to buy them and tear it apart to find out that I need more stuff to make it work. I plan on drilling a new mounting hole for the track bar because I can't afford an adjustable one right now and it needs to be done anyways because the previous owner didnt do it. Thanks in advance.

wow you do live close. I live right on the border of Clarksville and Oak Grove. We will have to meet up so you can show me some good trails because I'm having a hard time finding them. Anyways how do I raise the body line, but keep the fender flares because I kinda like the look of that.

Hey guys this is my first post on the site, but I have been reading alot and this is a great site. Well I'm kinda stumped on this one so I figured I would get some good advice from fellow MJ owners. My 88 MJ is sitting on a 3" lift and 31's. Just recently I decided to upgrade my bald BFG A/T with stock wheels to some Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ radials on 15x8 black Pacer wheels. Anyways after installing them and making the old Comanche look just a little meaner, Ive noticed there are rubbing in places they werent rubbing before (bottom edges of fenders) so I have been thinking about either taking off the fenders and just doing some bondo work and paint to fill in the mounting holes or trimming enough off to add some rubber trim around the fenders. Has anyone done this with 31's and if so does it look good or does it look just plain wierd? Also if anyone has some pictures of this done on 31's so I can get an idea where to trim, etc. that would be great. Thanks guys!