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Rohls

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Everything posted by Rohls

  1. Rohls
    I don't where that picture is from, but there is no blower motor relay. There's one for the A/C clutch, and one for the aux cooling fan though.......... Ok... Update: 1. Put in a new resistor pack; didn't do anything. Blower fan is still not spinning :hmm: What else is in this circuit that I could replace? Does anyone have a diagram for circuit? Should I get a new fan switch? How do I test mine now? Where does the ground for the blower fan terminate? I know it's to the frame, but HOW DO I TEST more than resistance testing with a meter? I don't know what else to try here... :???:
  2. Rohls
    There is no blower relay. Gotta ask: Is your IGN switch set to RUN when you are doing your measurements? If not, there will be no voltage to the BLOWER FUSE. Yup, ignition is on...I'll check it tonight again... http://postimg.org/image/voftmubqx/ Then what's this thing? Just A/C?
  3. Rohls
    Thanks...yeah, it appears to all be stock. I ordered a new resistor pack to give that a whirl. Is there a 'blower relay' or similar somewhere? What are all those other electrical components up underneath the dash on the passengers side? Anything I should be concerned with?
  4. Rohls
    Alright...went out there today to do some tests.... 1) The motor is good. I used the truck's battery to jump the blower; IT SPUN UP FREELY AND WELL. 2) With a multimeter attached to the connector, I switched the speed selector into the low, medium and high positions. The voltage changed slightly from 12.5 to 12.6 3) There is no power at the FUSE BOX at the BLOWER FUSE. IS this normal? i don't think so. The fuse IS NOT BLOWN, I use a tester light and get nothing at the pins where the fuse is connected....what's going on? IS there another blown fuse somewhere else? How it there voltage at the connector where the motor plugs in, but nothing at the blower fuse?!? 4) i tested the MOTOR GROUND as well as I could...is is connected to various parts of the frame and negative of the battery... ANy help would be great.... Thanks...!
  5. Rohls
    Thank you Eagle. Where is the most common ground for the motor located? Do I simply follow the ground from the motor to...? I'm sure it will dissapear into a harness somewhere and then I won't be able to find it.... Thanks for the help! :bowdown: :thumbsup: :rotfl2: :cheers:
  6. Rohls
    Hi, Please explain where the I can find the ground to the blower/fan....where it terminates. Also, where is the BLOWER RELAY located? How do I test if this is good? I purchased a blower resistor pack to rule that out....should be here in a couple days. Thanks!
  7. Rohls
    Wrong. The fan gets full voltage when the switch is set to high speed. For the other speeds, the power goes through resistors, which reduce the voltage to the fan, which is what makes it run slower. Test the voltage with the switch in each position and you should get different voltages. If you do, your resistor pack is good and the switch is good, so the problem is either the fan, or the ground. Do you have a battery charger? If so, try hot wiring the new fan to the charger and see if it runs. Or -- remove the negative cable from the MJ battery and hot wire the fan directly to the battery. See if it runs. If not ==> the fan is the problem. If so ==> the ground must be the problem. Thanks Eagle. I scrolled through the fan speeds, and I'm pretty certain the voltages changed, but will need to go and verify that again. When connected, the HI fan speed does not work. The fan is brand new. I know there is a small chance it could be faulty right out of the box, but how common is that? >>>I'll try and hot wire the fan to rule that out for sure. TBC. As for the ground, please explain where the I can find the ground to the fan and I'll check that too. Thanks!
  8. Rohls
    Thanks, yup it is the 5-speed. I just replaced the clutch master...thrice! POS, but that's a different topic. I'll check for the fluid drippings, but I checked last week and it was fine. Plus, if I'm getting voltage AT THE BLOWER CONNECTOR, the fuse can't be blown. ANy other thoughts?
  9. Rohls
    Hi, thanks for the reply. It won't run in any position...so that kinda confuses me. Also, it's only getting 10.6 Volts. The battery is at 12.5...and is fine... I was under the impression the fan need 12V or more to run...right?
  10. Rohls
    'Ello there! I've got a '92 manche. 75K miles. Couple weeks ago my heat/vent/defrost stopped working. I thought my blower motor went out. I pulled the windshield reservoir, un did the power connector to the blower, tested it and yup, ~10.6 Volts when the switch was in the ON position. I bought and installed a new blower motor assembly tonight. NOTHING HAPPENS WHEN I PLUGGED EVERYTHING BACK IN AND TURNED IT ON. :???: :???: :???: COuld it be a relay? Resistor bank I've heard about? Anything else? Please help! Thanks! :doh: :bowdown: :thumbsup:
  11. Rohls
    ...I cleared them. What fault codes were you reading? Sometimes when you make a dramatic change in the A/F ratio or injector pulse width (like changing fuel injectors) or engine timing, the ECU must be forced flashed to clear it's residual memory tables. Disconnecting the battery cables will clear the fault codes, but does not erase stored or residual memory. This is the procedure: Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground ( not the battery negative terminal ) for 30 seconds. The engine block or the A/C compressor pump will work as a ground. (This is to discharge the ECU capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory). Reconnect the Battery Cable Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine Turn Headlight “On” Turn Headlights “Off” Turn Ignition Key “Off” Thanks, I did this exactly. With the stock injectors back in, she runs great....though seems to be a LOT down on fuel economy...grrr...I'm gonna try to replace the O2 sensor and fuel filter...
  12. Rohls
    :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .
  13. Rohls
    ...I cleared them.
  14. Rohls
    Thanks for the help. After some cursing... I took the refurbished injectors out, arranged as recommended by the seller, put back in...no go..Same crap. I stuck the original injectors in and she fired right up....I'm leaving those in for the time being. I got a another set of refurbished injectors I'm going to slap in there as soon as they arrive....TBD !!
  15. Rohls
    Alright…a bit of an update... I installed the above injectors…truck ran like crap…sputtered, coughed…etc. misfired. I called the ebay seller, he calmed me down and was very polite, said he'd replace them if I was satisfied. I took them out tonight, clean em a little, put them back to how the seller recommended and fired er up…SAME RESULT: sputter, cough…ROUGH idle, ran like crap. Tested it down the road, no power, misfire etc….sigh…. Maybe I buggered something else up? I put the stock injectors in…fired right up, perfect idle everything is fine... SO--do I have a faulty injector? Seems like the motor was getting WAAAY too much full. Also, the pressure at the rail (relief valve) was nonexistent (!) for the rebuilt injectors….strange…I think I have a faulty injector…like one is stuck on or open. Is there anything else one needs to do to this mod? Fuel pump upgrade…? I thought this was plug and play…:/ Thoughts? My next plan is to get a different set of injectors and throw those in... good thing I'm getting really good at this..:) Thanks!
  16. Rohls
    It's a 1992. that explains the lack of port :thumbsup: I'll check the link. Thanks!
  17. Rohls
    I don't have a code reader right now...but when I drove it the check engine light came on and it was misfiring under acceleration in 2nd and 3rd gear. Please excuse my ignorance here, but is this OBD II? If so, where is the port located..? I remember looking and couldn't find one...but that was a wile ago. many thanks.
  18. Rohls
    Thank you. You said you kept the plastic hat-things on...it really seemed like the injectors didn't even fit or stayed in the injection ports with these on...was the oring in contact with the sealing surface for you with the hat-things on...?? I realize that I shouldn't have moved the o-ring that came with the injector ...:/ I need to go back in and do what you recommend. Where did you find a video of these injectors being installed? I found a couple videos, but the injectors look different...and more like the stock ones. Another thing is that I'll probably give the Ebay seller a call and see what they say...maybe they know. Thanks again for your help!
  19. Rohls
    Anything guys? Thoughts...? Hi All, So I bought and installed these injectors, above, and my Manche isn't running so hot. A couple notes and I hope you can help me out please. 1. I removed the plastic 'spacer' or 'top hat' these came with on the inlet side of the injector (near the motor) because it really didn't seem like they belonged or fit like the stock ones did. Is this correct? 2. I moved the oring that came with the refurbished in hectors into the grove of the injector,,,,Is this correct? 3. I added the stock oring from the stock injector to the refurbished injector so that the installed refurbished injector now has TWO orings on the injector….is this correct? 4. I reset the PCM module via instructions online b/c the idle was crappy. This seemed to help a little. 5. I drove the truck around the block and it ran like crap... 6. Engine check light came on immediately. 7. THe motor misfired and wouldn't accelerate properly.. 8. I couldn't $#!& into third gear without the motor hesitating and lugging like crazy. 9. I stopped the truck and am waiting to hear back before I try again. PLEASE HELP! SHould I put the stock injectors back in? Take out one of the two orings? Move the original oring back into original position? (it really didn't seem like the seal would be that great if I did this…. PLEASE HELP! Many thanks,,,,
  20. Rohls
    Hi All, So I bought and installed these injectors, above, and my Manche isn't running so hot. A couple notes and I hope you can help me out please. 1. I removed the plastic 'spacer' or 'top hat' these came with on the inlet side of the injector (near the motor) because it really didn't seem like they belonged or fit like the stock ones did. Is this correct? 2. I moved the oring that came with the refurbished in hectors into the grove of the injector,,,,Is this correct? 3. I added the stock oring from the stock injector to the refurbished injector so that the installed refurbished injector now has TWO orings on the injector….is this correct? 4. I reset the PCM module via instructions online b/c the idle was crappy. This seemed to help a little. 5. I drove the truck around the block and it ran like crap... 6. Engine check light came on immediately. 7. THe motor misfired and wouldn't accelerate properly.. 8. I couldn't $#!& into third gear without the motor hesitating and lugging like crazy. 9. I stopped the truck and am waiting to hear back before I try again. PLEASE HELP! SHould I put the stock injectors back in? Take out one of the two orings? Move the original oring back into original position? (it really didn't seem like the seal would be that great if I did this…. PLEASE HELP! Many thanks,,,,
  21. Rohls
    You guys are rad! Thanks. What are the power/MPG gains like with this mod? Any other 'worth-it' mod you could recommend? Thanks!
  22. Rohls
    Hello All! :thumbsup: So I heard somewhere that I could swap out my stock injectors (I have a 1992 4.0L in-line 6, :)) for some '4-way spray' ugraded injectors that could possibly bump up my fuel efficiency and give me a little boost in power/torque. Is this true...? I have an otherwise stock 'manche. If so, what is the model, make and possibly part number of these injectors? I 've looked a couple places, but they just mention 'Neon' or '703'...I'm not sure exactly what that means... Where could I purchse these new, once I know what I need? Many Thanks! :brows: :bowdown:
  23. Rohls
    I've got a '92 MJ. Recently the odometer starting working intermittently...know it only will roll over if I hold down the reset button... The trip has stopped working altogether.....grrr... :doh: Anybody know a remedy to this? :banana: . :MJ 1: . :banana: Thanks!
  24. Rohls
    nice! Looks good and thanks for the info. Does the Putco linked above come with everything needed?
  25. Rohls

    Seat Covers

    Rohls replied to jpdriver1's topic in The Pub

    hmm, so I guess I didn't post the last one...here goes again... What's the better seat sover replacement for a BENCH seat? can i take these covers off for cleaning with the seats still in the truck? About how long does this take (ie do I need to plan for a towel-ride to work :))? Thanks!
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