Rohls

Hmm..well...I'll keep my ear to the ground...

Ok guys, while I have a tiny lift (~2") budget lift on my DD MJ currently, the 31" tires are rubbing too much for my liking...I have WJ LCAs and shocks that accommodate the small lift in the front. I'm looking to get rid of the stock coils and 1.75" crappy spacer in there currently and replace them with some old man emu PN OME934 (for a WJ I believe)... >>>Do I need to mess around with sway bar links, driveshaft, pitman arm, etc. when I slap the new springs (OME934) on? I hear they give about 2.5'-3.0" of lift...which is what I want, but don't want to run into other problems.<<< Also, the very top rubber pieces that contact the frame and go directly above the coil....I believe they are called coil keepers, are totally wasted. Where do I get replacements...? And bumpstops? where do I get quality replacements for those? Anything else I should swap out while I'm taking the coils out? :???: Thanks! :banana: :banana:

Hello! I searched high and low over this great site and have yet to find a good source for a DOWNPIPE (s-pipe...?) replacement for my 1992 MJ I6. I'm looking to replace the header with a BANKS unit and at the same time throw in a mandrel bent 2.5" downpipe (I think this is the correct nomenclature...it's the exhaust pipe connected dorectly downstream of the header.. Any suggestions? I keep finding the crushed stock unit (pinched to less than 2.25" right near the header...)....but that's not what I want. Do I need to have a shop fab up a custom one? I'd like not to have to think about for a while, so maybe a stainless unit? Definitely would like it to be smooth mandrel bent and 2.5" diameter to match my Magnaflow exhaust that's turned down before the rear axle. Any help will be appreciated! :thumbsup: :bowdown:

Hope so; just bought two. :thumbsup: Hornbrod wouldn't steer ya wrong!

Thanks Hornbrod! I ordered a couple of these this morning...

Thanks, but I've got the stock cover on there and it didn't weep before, so I think I probably damaged it when i put the driver side half-axle in there...crap.

Alright, well I've been monitoring the aledged leaking seals and after wiping and checking every stop/over night it seems like they are indeed weeping... :doh: . There has been a small puddle each time... Looks like I should change them out as soon as I can...bummer. Where's the best most comprehensive DIY write-up since this will be my first time doing this...?

You guys are great; Thank you! :cheers: Just after I finished posting this, I had a 'duh' moment :idea: and realized that fluid could easily be residual from what leaked out when the half-shaft was out; as mentioned above....! I think the plan is to wipe up what I can (done) and make sure no more leaks out...to be continued! Thanks again! The seal PN I'm sure will benefit others as well! :thumbsup: :banana: :banana: . :MJ 1: . :D

So I just refreshed the front end on my '92 Manche...: new pads, rotors, calipers, brake lines, shocks, and even did the three u-joints. All was fine until I stuck the driver side half-axle back in , tightened it up, and observed the LEAK which had formed...:/...bummer. Diff fluid puddling on the garage floor... My question is, WHAT SEALS DO I NEED TO PURCHASE? An Amazon or Summit Racing link would be ideal....or just a part number. 1992 MJ stock front axle...Dana 30. THANK YOU!

I have a MJ with a 3" lift in the rear as well. Is the 33-185552 Bilstein a drop-in replacement? If not, what PN from Bilstein is? Thanks!

I ordered an inline check valve to place in the fuel line. Where exactly should I install this check valve? Directly before the fuel filter? Anyone got a pic? Thanks...!

K, a little update. I swapped the Bosch 703 Mustang 5.0L injectors for the new Siemens 22 lb/hr. Starts when COLD a little better....but when at operating temp, still has the 3-5 cranks before it fires up... Still haven't pulled the plugs. I am not running rich from what i can tell. Now what should i try? Thanks!

Thanks Hornbrod! Understood; I won't worry about installing this when I get the chance. Out of curiosity, what FP do Bimmers run? IIRC, my issue began before the injectors/FPR swap (about a year ago now)...but I have been noticing it getting worse in the last couple months...slowly, but it is worsening...I'll check the plugs, maybe they will tell me something. I did change them out for stock plugs 3 years ago (25k miles ago). Maybe need to swap the plugs...? I also swapped the distributor and spark plug wires at that time. Thanks again.

Thanks all. i check and there is no leaking form the fuel lines. Good news. i plan on replacing the injectors soon so i may rule them out. I am hesitant to put the BMW inline fuel check valve in...I've read bad things about higher pressures it seems...and since I'm running the 49 PSI regulator would this issue be exacerbated? The FPR is newer and I pulled the vacuum off it with no leak...is this a good enough 'check'? How else do i tell if this is the culprit short of spending $50 on a new one...?

Thanks Hornbrod! My system pressure definitely is NOT what you described...:/ Where do I get the proper replacement check valve? Can I install an inline check valve now (without messing with the fuel pump) as a precaution? If so, where can I get one of these? Thanks again...!

Thanks! I replaced the coil last month...the OEM one had a small crack in it. The new one didn't seem to help much....:/

So what is the proper fuel pressure protocol....? In terms of Key ON and Key OFF? Should I expect pressure at the rail with the key ON (motor off)? If so, what value? 10 PSI? 44 PSI? Thanks!

When the motor is cold, I definitely let the pump prime (key ON for ~3-5 seconds) and that seems to help...though I don't believe I register pressure on the rail, which is interesting...maybe I need to double check. I'll check the fuel return line today, but haven't noticed it wet/leaking/dripping before.

This could be! The company I bought the rebuilt bosch 703 (mustang 5.0L) injectors from said they have had 'issues' with these and sent me a set of 22 lb/hr Siemens injectors as a replacement...these are supposed to be more reliable...thanks for the tip! Would this explain my 'low-to-no fuel pressure' situation described above?

Not sure; how to check quickly? It's a brand new Mopar part, so I would like to think it's solid and functioning well 500 miles in...thank you!

:banana: :banana: Okay, didn't find anything that addressed my current issue whilst performing a little search, so here goes. My 1992 MJ 4.0, 5-speed with ~80K on it is great to start when cold: it takes like one good revolution of the motor and idles great....problem it is hard to start when at operating temperature....like when I go to start it after 20 minutes at the grocery store. Couple things I thought it was related to that I fixed recently: 1. CPS replaced (slightly improved idle) 2. IAC replaced (no change) 3. New battery (was going bad anyway....slightly improved start...not really though) One thing I keep thinking about is the fuel pressure... I have a gauge at the rail (thanks Hornbro!)...IDLE= 41 PSI, anything greater than idle is 49 PSI. I have larger injectors and the appropriate FPR...the question is this: is there supposed to be fuel pressure just before the engine turns over (key ON)? and just after the engine is shut down...? My situation is that the pressure goes to 0 PSI right after the motor is shut down and when the key is ON and I hear the fuel pump for a second....I heard there was a valve in the fuel pump that could go bad? Any help would be great. Thanks! :cheers:

I'm thinking of switching to these injectors. What kind of hesitation do you notice? Any comment on fuel consumption?

Thank you for all the info. I will be looking in to getting a A/F gauge and adjustable MAP sensor....let the tinkering continue! :)

Thanks JEEPMAN for starting this. To be clear, I followed the chart found in the thread I started (http://comancheclub.com/topic/42856-what-upgrade-fuel-injectors-do-i-purchase-92-40l/) some time ago...it followed the other research i gathered at the time...sorta made sense. Please correct me if I'll way off here. The chart is the following...says it's for STOCK 4.0L...: I have the FORD 710 injectors and Chrysler #4418850 regulator currently, and for the last 6 or so months. My mileage probably increased slightly due to the injectors, but I have done a couple other things that detract. I opened up the exhuast with a 2.5" magnaflow and am running stock gears with 31" tires. Truck is DD. I get 15 MPG around town and 17 MPG on the highway....not bad I suppose....:) The truck is notceably more torquey and responsive because of this...and more fun to drive when it sounds bad-@$$:) I guess I don't understand why I would want to step back down to a stock FPR ( which limits to 39PSI) when my injectors (FORD 710) are made to perform 18/19 lb/hr @ 44/49 PSI...? In fact I most likely did this when I was going through all of this....I swapped the injectors to the 710s and left the stock FPR in there...==>> It ran like crap. Bumped up to the FPR in the chart above==>> performance as it is today. I'd have to look for the old injectors, but would guess they were stock from the factory...like 20 lbs/hr @ 39PSI...right? So.. I'll keep my set up for now unless I get input from you all... :thumbsup: Back to why I starting poking around.... What else could be causing the 'COLD engine = easy start (like 1 revolution) WARM engine = hard start (like 5 revolutions)" ??? Fuel pump? Regulator? Does my 'Manche have a check valve near the fuel tank/pump...? IIRC I have 0 PSI at the newly installed fuel gauge ( :yes: ) when key-off, that's fine, but after the truck sits for a couple minutes this is also the case...normal? JEEPMAN--What is your A/F gauge like? Easy enough to do...? Thanks again!

Thanks guys. The Bosch injector number is 0280155700. I bought them after reading another post on this forum. The ebay listing is http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l3160/7?euid=7aa58b828db147fa8d5699ebd1ead20f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D261285799097%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A3160 I not believe he mentions flow rate or what regulator swap.