Slifter

The fan I got is pushing not pulling so keep that in mind when using other fans off other vehicles you may not get the correct rotation. Edit: Fixed the hole in the shroud and power timed it (was way off), running cool now. Now onto the drive train vibration...

That shroud looks like mine, I was stupidly kneeling on it while replacing the head. Next time the hoods coming off so I can stand over the block while placing the head. Major cursing ensued as I knew it was a hard to find part in my area.

Wow thanks, got one of of a YJ on the weekend. Seems to not run as cool...

Heading to the wreckers shortly to find a stock replacement. I tried an electric fan but it is way too loud and I don't trust it. Long shot question here but, other than Jeeps, does anyone know what other vehicles share the same fan?

thank you thank you thank you... left my trailer wiring hanging and rolled over it, this was very useful....

Cool thanks for the info I will find a pic online to compare. From my reading I believe it may be off an old ford. No electonics just plane jane with egr delete & motorcraft ignition.

Trust me I looked through the pile of parts this truck started as and there is no air cleaner that fits. Once I id the carb it shouldnt be too hard to find something that works.

It's definitely a carb. Single barrel. Previous owner must have swapped the tb out. I guess I can delete this thread.

i don't understand what ur saying. it should be pretty straight forward. remove air filter, tb and linkage remove intake and exhaust mani as i think they share same mounting bolts. remove head. have broken bolts removed, head cleaned and new valve guids installed. put back together with proper tourque values in reverse manor. correct? what do you mean by (coolant pissing all over?) 54bobby if you have the wet intake/exhaust bolt holes in the head as both airspeed and I did, you will have difficulties sealing the stud when re-installing the exhaust/intake. When you have the head off check the holes (front most and rear most exhaust bolts), if they do go through the water jacket (wet) you may want to just replace the head for one with solid (blind) holes to avoid any leaking of coolant through those studs as they have a tendency to work loose over time. This is what airspeed did. I did not, and may regret it later on. It's all in the thread. It was a light-hearted comment half in jest I apologize for any confusion.

Want to get rid of the stock airbox it's cracked all to $#!& and missing a hose or two. Turning it into a toolbox, seems to be more useful as one at this point anyhow. Has anyone found a round air cleaner in a junkyard that fits on the carb? If so what was it off?

54bobby maybe it would be better to just leave it as is and deal with a leaky exhaust instead of a leaky exhaust with coolant pissing all over it lol. Airspeed that was very nice of your machine shop to do that for you, the shops in this town don't give a rats @$$ about the little guy trying to get his junk together - with all the broken down new ford diesels coming through their doors.

Done. It's all good now. Now just need a gas tank, rear bumper and get the rear lights working then it is ready for the 4x conversion.

Everything went back together great. Once the head was off you could clearly see that both the front and rear exhaust stud holes were indeed wet bolts. I used teflon thread sealant.on all bolts anyways and replaced the old rusty fasteners with stainless. Used a composite gasket for later model comanches, and torqued according to the manual. Also tested and replaced the t-stat. Since the fan was missing when I bought it, I have installed an electric fan. I really need to get a temp guage hooked up to see what the temps are doing. It seems to be running on the hot side and now I realize I have no heat. I flushed the heater core, that's fine, checked the heater box controls they are working fine. I filled with water, bled the air and refilled 2x. Still no heat. The problem lies between the water pump and the heater core line. It is not plugged, so I suspect water pump. It is pulled now, just hoping to get a recommendation or what to avoid for a water pump, not sure if they are anything special. I may as well do it as it may be on its way out anyhow and its really easy to get at. Sorry for the long winded upate and thanks again for all the great help.

Regarding the exhaust manifold bolts. Mine were all bolts no studs. The front bolt had a few washers on it I remember thinking, "That looks farmered". I didn't notice an external leak but perhaps the bolt was not in far enough or like you mentioned was not sealed properly.

I just re-read your op, that makes sense now. Thanks. Yes it looks easy enough, pulling the head itself only took an hour and that was with my 2 year old helping.

Well that's good it solved the problem in your case but I don't have spare money for a new head at the moment. We will see if anyone else chimes in before I decide how to proceed. It's strange that the shop said there should be no wet bolts yet I can see that there was some coolant visible between cyl#2&3. Also, seems strange that you have to use thread tape on the #8 bolt if they are indeed all blind bolts. Thanks for the help guys, this is the first head problem I have had in years and the first for this particular motor so I am a bit green.

Hi 54bobby, thanks that solves that mystery. Where can I find the reassembly instructions? I have a hayes but I don't think it goes into much detail.

Finally got to work on my own junk today. Pulled the head. Any help here? The head gasket is in one piece but I'm wondering wtf is up with that dried up orange head bolt. I didnt snap a pic of it but under the gasket between C#2&3, there are two small holes in the head that are blocked off by the gasket.

willmeeks @gmail.com Thanks Garvin!

Thanks Garvin. In the past, I just find the ground first then connect each wire to the (+) on a battery charger or battery and label as I go. But in all honesty I will probably just hook them up in order of, "god damn I wish I had a high beam indicator," then curse myself for not doing it when I had the dash out. I'm to lazy to pull the steering wheel off so the dash won't go in fully assembled lol. I left lots of extra wire as I had a donor harness. Ford broke need to get this on the road quick.

Ok back to my original post sort of. I decided to take the less adventurous route and was able to locate an '88 dash which the guy was really cool I got boxes of parts and the dash for $50. And the best part is that it actually fits. I had to grind the slots bigger where it mounts into the steering column but everything else fit perfect. I used the 86 harness. I still have to match the wires to the back of the instrument cluster but most of the wires are the same color and go to the proper location. Unfortunately I am still missing all the mouldings and trim pieces to complete the dash. So right now it's a combination of red and grey. I am happy today, it has been sitting in the rain for 3 months untouched since I bought it and I was beginning to get the fear... Will be getting it to my house in a couple days and re-do the head gasket. Funny guy who sold it to me said it had a new head gasket but didnt tell me it was still in the box behind the seat. What other year dashes are the same as the 88? Need to find a few more bits.

He died... I'm fine with re-doing the head gasket, just finding the time to do it. Vaquaro I see u are in Delta I am across the pond in Nanaimo.

I noticed steam the other day where it looks like coolant is leaking onto the exhaust manifold. The engine was completely rebuilt along with a new head gasket immediately before I bought it. It has not been run besides on and off trailers. I can't assume the head is not warped but I wanted to check with you guys before I start tearing the head off for no reason. Is there a "wet" head bolt on the drivers side that need to be sealed? I'm just hoping it wasn't torqued properly or perhaps the head gasket wasn't installed properly. Oh and it is showing typical hg failure, exhaust in the coolant system and oil in the coolant. Sucks.

So let me get this straight. You would pull a perfectly good dash, remove all the old gauges and hvac and put +97 bits & custom gauges on your old dash and put it BACK in? To retain the "classic" look? Someone has too much time on their hands... lol!

If I do find one I will be modifying it to fit a set of volvo penta boat gauges. That's the plan as of today lol.