joshmillslane

Really anything that forms an airtight barrier/seal will prevent rust. That's what paint does.

Yes, definately going with a vinyl mat over it once it's all cured. It will be cooler, quiter, and more comfortable with a mat for sure. The main idea here was to seal it up and stop the rusting. I thought this would be a good choice because I could lay it on thick. The crappy paint on the floor was so thin it's no wonder they rust out so bad with just a little trapped moisture. I'm hoping this will hold up a bit better than paint over the long term. We'll see.

While I was messing around with my truck this weekend, I thought it might be a good idea to run the spare cable up and down to make sure it worked and lube up it's innards. It was pretty rusty and looked like it hadn't moved since new. I have a sull size spare I was going to stick under there. It ran all the way down with no problem - Cool! I gave it a good WD40 bath and ran it back up. Just as I was about to snug it up, that 20+ year old cable had enough of my $#!& and snapped at the end. So, how would I go about fixing this problem? I really would like to stick with an underbed storge solution for a full size spare - as factory looking as possible. Thanks in advance.

So, I had to replace all the parking brake cables in my 86 MJ - what a PITA! When I pulled up the vinyl mat on the floor to get to the inside cable, the mat was all wet, and there was just a slight starting of surface rust. I wasn't going to have that on my beater! So I ripped out and tossed the moldy smelling mat and resolved to do something about that damn floor someday. This weekend became someday. T hought about the rhino line route, but that would require me to take it apart at their shop and cost a lot of money. I found some spray cans of truck bed liner at advance auto. Worth a shot I figured - worst case scenario it sucks and I'm not out much money. I took out the seat and lower trim panels and scuffed up the paint and rust real good with a paint stripping brush - I nearly killed my 14.4v Dewalt cordless. Quick vacuum job and wipe with mineral spirits, then I sprayed a light mist of rust converter on the rusty spots. I let that sit for a couple hours then gave it a good cloth drying job. I then started spraying in light coats. The spray was very easy to control, so I took off the masking I did so I could get in tighter in some spots. The only things I taped were the seat bolts and seat belt holes. It took about 3 cans to do the whole floor in 2 or 3 thick coats. I did many extra coats on the foot wells in particular - making sure to get inside the holes where the bracing is. I used part of a 4th can to coat the lower trim pieces in black - we'll see how it holds up once it's fully cured. I'm going to let this sit for a few days, then order another vinyl mat and call it done. Hopefully this will be the last time I wrestle that damned bench seat in and out. :D Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Bear with me now - I'm not a mechanic, but I'm learning. I've been plugging away at my 2.8 trying to get this thing to pass Virginia Emissions. I started by installing a brand new Cat since previous owner removed it. This made the truck run 100% better, but I failed emissions with high NOx with other readings very low. So I did a minor tune-up. New Cap, Rotor, Plugs, PCV (They were all very bad - probably original with over 110k.) Adjusted the timing which was about 3 degrees retarded according to the Catalyst label. This made the truck run and start great - even better than before. Took it in for a retest today, and it failed again with even higher levels of NOx - all other readings were nearly zero. The tesing guy said it could be an EGR problem, so I decided to tackle the EGR valve replacement tonight. As I tore into it, I found the line to the EGR valve was disconnected completely. I went ahead with the replacement and connected that line. I also found another small line that was rotten and hanging from the PCV system I never noticed before. I fabricated a new line and connected it to a nearby electrical/vaccum thingamajig that was clearly missing a hose. The good news is that the truck started and ran, but with an extremely low idle. Driving it around is fine - the idle is just very, very low - almost stalling. Could a vaccuum leak cause a high idle? I'm wondering if the previous owners might have backed the idle down when this stuff was not connected and leaking, and I should just bring it up, or look for another problem. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Was that your auction? If so, I need more pieces!

That's Ebay for ya - you never know until the last 5 seconds anyway...We'll see what happens. they look a little beat up, but so does everything else on my truck at the moment. I'm also hitting a local slavage yard this weekend, so i'll try mu luck there. I'll pull some extra junk too if there's anything good.

Ha ha, no worries. I'm suprised it went this long without being posted :cheers:

Damnit! I was hoping to get these cheap. Gues it's not going to happen now :roll:

Why unbolt it? I tried bleeding it without removing it. I did flush the system a few times (lol) but it didn't do anything for the pedal feel, and I still lose the clutch every now and then.

That's good info. Thanks! I thought the ax5s were internal - it's hard to find accurate info on the intraweb - especially with everyone modding the hell out of these things. Just a thought - could an improperly bled system cause the problems I am having? Thanks!

I'm not sure about a bearing issue. normally you can hear those when they start to go, right? A difference in sounds with the pedal in or out while in neutral? Anyway, it's just strange it only grabs when it's cold.

So, I'm trying to diagnose some clutch issues I'm having with my 86. It's the 2.8 w/ ax5. The previous owner says it has a new master and slave cylinders and the master looks new - can't see the slave obviously. I've been intermittantly losing my clutch. It normally engages mid pedal, but sometimes, the pedal goes soft and it'll engage right off the floor. I pump it a few times, and it's back to normal. I'd say this hapens about 5% of the time. Maybe once everytime I drive it. The other strange thing is when I first get it rolling when it's been sitting and cold, the clutch is grabby as hell. It wants to engage immediately which bogs the motor almost to stall. I jam the pedal back down, get some RPMs, try to slip it again with the same result. It bounces the hell out of the truck. It only does this on the first start when it's cold. After driving a bit, it's fine. I ordered a new slave cyl, clutch, throwout bearing, and rear main seal just in case. If it is the slave cyl, I'll just hit em all at once. Thanks in advance.

I'm confused, but doesn't the EGR system actually cool the combustion chamber? My comanche just failed emissions for high NO levels, and everything I've read points to a faulty EGR system.

I also did the fluid changes (oil, frt/rear diffs, tranny, TC) in my new project last weekend. It really did make a difference in shifting. Seems like the new fluid is helping out the synchros - before, I sometimes had to double clutch it to get it in gear. I watched when they drained it, and the tranny fluid looked like tar dripping out. I'll bet it hasn't been changed in the whole 110k miles on the truck. I've got the AX5 in my turd, but it should help you out too.

PM sent! Thanks!

Does anyone have the little arm that connects the valve to the axle? I found this same thing today when working on my turd. All the parts are there except for the little connector piece, and I'd like to connect them. Thanks! Josh