GHayduke

Thanks guys, I'm trying to decide if and how much of that insulation to put in other parts of the cab. Both as insulation and sound deadening. Like the back wall / B pillars / Floor? The nice thing is, as it's foil and plastic, it shouldn't absorb and hold water like some other insulation options.

Thanks Guys, I guess I'm leaning toward the Rancho Add-a-leaf from 4 Wheel Parts: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/Add-A-Leaf-Kit-Rear.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=5488&t_pn=ranrs60913&utm_source=google&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=product&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gclid=CNS43bHf_7gCFURY3godLB4A6g It's more pricey than some other options at $89, but is a more trusted brand as far as ride quality I think. I'll see what that gives me with the new C8.25 axle installed. I can always add a mild shackle lift as needed, should give me some added load capacity as well. I think it's probablly best to drive the Manche with the lift on it for a couple weeks and see how it settles and what it looks like. Then I can fine tune the rear height if needed. Any tips for welding the new spring perches on the axle? Should I try to slam them as low profile to the tube as possible to increase lift? Or will I then not have clearance for the spring pack center bold and hate myself later? I haven't taken a close look at both axle spring perches yet....... I'll try to remember to take before and after pictures and measure too.

Thanks- I ordered a 98' Dakota sender/pump unit for my 95' tank. I think I'll go fitting shopping at the hardware store to make a vent line angle fitting. Otherwise, I may have to hunt the boneyard for vents like the one below.

I'd be game to try some 3" XJ AALs but I'm having a hard time finding them, as I don't want a full kit, just the leafs. Anyone seen these anywhere? I've seen a few that don't state a lift amount or application..... Has anyone here tried bastard packs? Thanks for all the good info guys... this is making more sense now!

I pulled the bulb and no light. Haven't hooked up a horn to test yet... - Thanks

I saw Pete M said: " in the rear you can go with an 3" AAL (which, due to differences between MJs and XJs that the aftermarket doesn't seem to understand, generally lift around 2" in an MJ). " in a past thread.... I then found: Pro Comp Rear Helper Spring - Add-a-leaf's that are advertised as 3".. but in the description they say " Provides 1.5 to 2.5 inches of lift " I'm concerned about ride quality with theses? This is a cheaper spring that may be a rougher ride....? onlyinajeep726: I've only heard of folks making bastard packs on XJ's... but would wonder how much lift I might get and at what ride quality??? Who's tried this? Anyone here? Does anyone know if there is a different curve / profile to the XJ vs MJ springs that comes into play?

Hi guys, I'm doing a 88-98 conversion and want to add 2" of lift to the rear. I used spacers in the front for about 1&1/2 to 1&3/4 of lift. I'm thinking of using a long add-a-leaf in the rear to give me around two inches lift. I can then fine tune the hight with spring shackles if needed going forward. I'm using the factory 2wd rear springs (shortbed) and a 98' Chrysler 8.25 Axle in the rear. I'm thinking of trying the Skyjacker 2inch add-a-leafs in the rear: http://www.quadratec.com/products/76101_800_07.htm I've had positive results with skyjacker springs on my CJs. My concern is the specs for these show them as useable for both the XJ and MJ? I thought the rear leaf springs were different as I had considered using a XJ leaf to beef up my MJ pack and was told that would actualy lower the rear. Does anyone know the difference between the leaf packs on the Cherokee vs the Comanche? Again I'm taking the rear apart to put in the newer axle and would like to start with spring leafs, leaving me the shackles for future lift adjustment. What do you think? Any info would be appreaciated... anyone tried these? :dunno: I know I've heard they can fatigue and you loose the lift over time, but if so I could still do shackles.... This jeep will be my daily driver street rig and not a trail rig. I just want a little lift as MJs look low.

I found the pictures of the mods you made to your tank. I need to add a vent line etc. to my tank and am about to buy parts. Did the angle valve in your picture come off another tank? I'd like to find something like this! It looks similar to the angle connection on our valve covers. I was thinking of looking for a brass fitting to do this with..... I don't have anything like this on my MJ tank, or XJ tank, or 95 tank......

I have a 95' dakota 22gal tank & plan to order a 98' Dakota sender/pump unit for my 88-98 swap. I'm thinking it would be easiest to drill the new sender unit and add a fuel filer vent. Has anyone done this and are there pictures to show how/where. Might be nice before drilling a new sender unit. If I go this way, and suggestions on fittings? Gas safe (proof) RTV? Or am I better to drill the tank? Just not sure what I'd use for fittings on the tank. Akula69- I'd be interested in seeing pictures of the mods you made to the tank and sender!!!

nice. Did you extend your existing gas tank straps or replace them with something? It looks like the XJ bolts may be able to be used on the one side.

Thanks, I had the IMG link option turned off in user settings... This a test to see if I got it... Nope... the image is now there, but the video is not linked..

Headliner time: Exciting considering I never had one! When it rained hard it sounded like the inside of a drum in the cab. Probablly not the warmest choice of roof treatments either... I cut down the XJ headliner slowly in the rear test fitting until it sit as high as I wanted. It will still be a stretch (or flex) to push it up high enough to install the dome light from the XJ. First I covered it like the back wall cutting myself on the fiberglass edge... But man it looks good compared to before! Then I glued on some Double Bubble Foil insulation to the top for insulation. This stuff in used to wrap water heaters and in industrial buildings. Basicly two layers of bubble wrap surounded /divided by a heavy foil. I then glued some to the inside of the MJ roof as well. This should stop the tin roof sound. There will still be an air space between the two layers of insulation once installed. Should work well I think... Here are two pieces curing for awhile before install.... Woo.

On to the interior... I decided to recover the back wall. I also cut down the Chero headliner to fit in the Manche. I started with the back wall as that will be less seen. Stripped it with a wire brush and fiberglass brush in a drill. Sandpaper if anal, used alcohol and a rag to prep for glue. For cost and cleaning sake I decided to try Polar or 'Blizzard' Fleece from Joann fabrics. It was cheaper than headliner material and came in darker colors that won't show dirty fingerprints so well. I researched online and decided to try 3M 08088 Adhesive, the medium strength as I couldn't find the heavy duty in the store. Put a coat on both fabric & board in one direction, wait a minute, do a coat in the other direction, wait 1:30sec and stick em together trying not to get wrinkles.... then flip the board and glue the edges and holes the same way... Came out good for my first attempt at doing it. I have a few wrinkles but sides and top edges get covered by the back walls anyway....

Thanks Ryan, My MJ has the drip edge on one side (passeger) & it's missing on the other. I think I might have another somewhere. I'll have to decide if I want to go with the factory solution, or find some generic adhesive closed cell foam insulation to do the same thing. Thanks again for letting me know what it's for. I imagine it would help with heavy wind / wind noise as well.

Operation Cherokee Demise(sounds like genoside but it's not!) : The donor Cherokee Classic I had had a title problem, The title had been signed by a buyer, whom then backed out of the sale. so the title has a wrong name on it. So I'd have to pay to correct the title to take it to the Boneyard, who likely wouldn't want whats left of it (just the shell). Special thanks to my friend Zack who assisted me in making a XJ take up less space. First we removed everything we could use. Both axles will go to new homes as well. Here's what we pushed out of the garage: Here are a few additional picks for fun: We employed 2 sawsalls, a plasma cutter, a angle grinder with cut-off wheels, and a 16 pound hammer..... XJ halfs anyone? (I'm behind the hood) The neighbors heard metallic cutting noises into the night........... the wife said it felt like the house was shaking.... And here it is ready to go to the scrap yard to be recycled into your dinner fork : We cut these chunks just small enough to put in and push out of the truck... These will go to the scrap yard along with some old exhaust systems, the old trans I can't sell, etc..... & I now have space in my garage to work! :banana:

I posted the brief video of my engine running! Just not sure how to attach / link it from Photobucket, & have it show the pic? We added Farm & Fleet trans fluid and ran the engine a few times to flush the old fluid from the trans and torq converter. As the gas tank is not done, I put the XJ fuel pump in a clean bucket of fuel to run it. I think I'll get a 1998 Dakota fuel sender/pump unit? Is this my best bet? We did this a couple times until the fluid came out clean & stoped coming out much. I'll refill it with Amsoil severe duty trans fluid to button it up. Next I started preping the XJ for removal from the garage... Stay tuned for " Operation Cherokee Demise (sounds like genoside but it's not!) " later today!........

Hi Guys, How do I post a video clip on my build thread? It's currently in Photobucket. Not sure how to attach this as everything I tried didn't work? Please provide steps! :???:

I moved over the door seals from XJ to MJ this weekend, in preparation for the XJ donor leaving.... Below is a fuzzy picture of the door trim I mentioned, I'm wondering how past conversion folk addressed this? maybe replace it with some other generic gasket materialn as The MJ does not have the body seam it mounts on?

I looked at the gas tanks last night and tested the fuel sender OHM range. The sender in the 95' tank looks to have a completely different range so it looks like I need a different sender unit. The local boneyard has some Dakota's so I'll go look for a 97-01 fuel sender / pump unit. I'll have to see if it's cheaper to by a whole tank or just the sender. So I'd be putting a 98' ish sender in a 95' tank. Any tips on this? I've seen a lot on this in other treads, but no best way to do it. I also confirmed the engine turns over / runs. I poured in a little fuel down the intake & the engine started right up with no hesitation / almost no cranking. It ran for a few seconds, so I believe the new distributor is in correctly. It sounds pretty intense with no exhaust on it! Made me think of a top fuel dragster inside the garage.

Nice! Whats in the forefront of picture 2? Muffler? & whats the wood for?

Thanks Bornindesert- How do you drain the drier? I also know the service manual provides specs on the number of ounces of oil the total system holds. Weekday Update: last night I modified the mounts and installed the XJ seat belts. Image Not Found I also looked at the MJ/XJ door seals and it appears the main door seal will fit fine. There is a secondary front upper seal on the XJ that fits on a track that the MJ does not have. How have others done this seal? Glue it? Replace it with something else? I can take a picture later if you don't know what I'm referring too...

Bornindesert- Yeah I think that makes sense for the most part. My MJ never had A/C before. The new 98' engine set-up came with R134a style A/C already, so I just have to get it working. I ordered a condenser and dryer, liquid line, and will likely just order the other main line as the old connection to the condeser is rusted and does now want to come apart. I'm debating if I should remove the pump and try to drain the old oil from it and start fresh. I think it only has one side plug (that I see). Do I then just pour in the (some amount of) liquid PAG100 oil before connecting up the system? Someone mentioned adding the oil to various places in the system: pump, drier, etc? My past expirience has just been recharging a weak system....

lookin good..... If you guys keep making your's pretty, I'm gonna have to break down and pay to have mine painted right....

Looks Awsome, I need to find someone who can paint my truck like that! Eager to see what the bumper looks like.

Sunday I installed a new starter and the MJ battery tray with the batt temp sensor now in it. I also completed most of the wiring to the engine (alt, starter, grounds). I still need the ground from the firewall to intake. I also installed the new trans lines. One of the lines / fittings does not want to clip into the trans very well (stay cliped when pulled on) . I'm hoping it will seat and stay once it heats and cools? Otherwise It'll just shoot trans fluid everywhere! :doh: Do the small barrel like fittings unscrew from the trans so I can clean them out? (without causing issues) the one is rusty. I also need to take care of the rust on the underside floor starting.... This week I plan add fluids and maybe install seat belts before the weekend......