mvusse Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Well, I set out to replace the front ds u-joint today. Getting the hub assembly out of the steering knuckle was a bugger and took me 3 hours. Bolts all came off easily (breaker bar, 4 foot extension pipe :D ), but the hub assembly was rust welded to the knuckle. When I finally had it off I slid the axle out and took it to the shop, where I got the u-joint out with a 20 ton hydraulic press. One cap had no bearings left, which I knew, but two of the remaining 3 caps were dry also. Original 1987 Spicer u-joint. My current problem is that the caps were so badly rusted into the axle ends (retaining rings came out in many, many pieces) that by the time I had them broke loose and pressed out, the ears on both axle ends were bent in. With the one side of the joint in place and the caps tight on the joint, the other end is a good 1/16" away from being able to get the retaining clip in. I tried to force it with the press, to see if maybe the ear would bend out again, but only succeeded in busting the end of the u-joint through the bearing cap. I might be able to bend the ears out before putting another new joint in, but am not counting on being able to keep the two holes for the bearing caps aligned. So, I'm guessing I need a new axle shaft. Parts stores carry only the CV boot ones, and I'm not looking forward trying to get one from a j-y because I may have the same problem with the hub assembly I had on my truck. Question is, what all does it interchange with? Specifically, does it interchange with a D30 shaft out of a YJ? Also, can I safely drive around (in 2wd) without the shaft installed, or will I lose oil out of the front diff if I do? If I can't drive without the axle, could I just stick the axle in and tie it (zip tie, metal wire, or whatever) to the axle housing to hold it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepthing07 Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Same thing happened with my YJ. it was on a vac axle i shoved a rag in the axle tube and didn't use 4wd until i found some new shafts. you could tack weld the caps in and just drive it like that until you find some new ones too edit: when i drove without the axle shaft in i put the stub shaft back in the unit bearing hub i wasn't sure if it could possibly separate without it being held together with the stub.... the 2wd uses the same deal so its probbaly fine without it but whatever..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 DEFINEATELY, DEFINEATELY, You MUST use the stub shaft!!!! You need to find a way to retain the fluid. But limited use you should be fine. Remember, The hubs WILL NOT stand it very long with out the stub shaft!! Could be VERY DANGEROUS on the road if one let go on you!!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 Yes DO NOT drive without a shaft in it. A guy recently was killed on the way home from the Badlands because some people he was wheeling with forgot to tell him to put the shaft back in. He left behind a wife a 2 kids. Here is a pic of the result of not having a shaft in of a local GLXJ member. The Jeep was simply drove from the break down on the trail to the camp ground. It was not driven more than 15mph and less than a 1/4 of a mile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 I got interrupted twice today, First time wast the 5th grade band spring concert that daughter #1 was in. That was 2pm this afternoon. After the concert was over daughter #2 told me the high school drama club (that she's in) is putting on a play at 6pm. During the play I did some brainstorming, and when I got home I got out my grinder. Ground 1/32" off the inside of each ear and the new u-joint first like a dream. This was going to just be a temporary measure, but I'm going to keep an eye on it for the next few weeks, and if there are no problems I guess it'll be permanent. Also picked up 2 new bushings for a lca, and to my surprise they come not only with the thin steel sleeve inside, but also with the big steel sleeve on the outside. I expected to get just a rubber bushing with the thin sleeve inside. After work tomorrow I'll press them onto the lca that the bushings fell out of. If they are tight I'm using it, if not I'll press them back out and throw the arm in the trash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 In case I do end up having to replace it, one question still stands: What all does the axle interchange with? Do all Jeeps with a D30 front and non CV joint axles have the same length axles and the same spline count on both ends? Or just Comanche and Cherokee? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 In case I do end up having to replace it, one question still stands: What all does the axle interchange with? Do all Jeeps with a D30 front and non CV joint axles have the same length axles and the same spline count on both ends? Or just Comanche and Cherokee? Yes, all will interchange with in XJ,MJ,TJ,YJ, & ZJ. All are 27 spline and same length, regardless. WJ went to CV style, but even those should work although I never tried them. (Jeep thought/thinks CV's are quieter/smoother.) Only diff is some where tow piece and some one piece. IE TJ/ZJ's where all one piece. While XJ are some of each. YJ's always two piece, but changed to 297 joints sometime around 1995. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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