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97+ door wiring specs


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  • 3 weeks later...

From what I can tell on the wiring all the control units are in the right door.. but I can't really find a good picture of the right door in the manual I have.. (Thanks to LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW and GreatLakesXJ, where I got the download! jamminz.gif ) I think I'm just going have to tear into the door and use my multimeter and test light to figure everything out,, Now that I think about it I can't find any relays for anything either, but I going to use them on the windows at least,, I don't think the locks or mirrors will draw enough amps to worry about having a controlled circuit..

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From what I can tell on the wiring all the control units are in the right door.. but I can't really find a good picture of the right door in the manual I have.. (Thanks to LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW and GreatLakesXJ, where I got the download! jamminz.gif ) I think I'm just going have to tear into the door and use my multimeter and test light to figure everything out,, Now that I think about it I can't find any relays for anything either, but I going to use them on the windows at least,, I don't think the locks or mirrors will draw enough amps to worry about having a controlled circuit..

 

I think you meant the control unit is in the drivers side left door, right? :D Also JT, I replaced quite a few power window regulators in several different models, and have never seen the window motors wired through relays. They just don't pull enough amps to justify it. That also goes for power sunroofs, power rear sliders, etc.

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From what I can tell on the wiring all the control units are in the right door.. but I can't really find a good picture of the right door in the manual I have.. (Thanks to LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW and GreatLakesXJ, where I got the download! jamminz.gif ) I think I'm just going have to tear into the door and use my multimeter and test light to figure everything out,, Now that I think about it I can't find any relays for anything either, but I going to use them on the windows at least,, I don't think the locks or mirrors will draw enough amps to worry about having a controlled circuit..

 

I think you meant the control unit is in the drivers side left door, right? :D Also JT, I replaced quite a few power window regulators in several different models, and have never seen the window motors wired through relays. They just don't pull enough amps to justify it. That also goes for power sunroofs, power rear sliders, etc.

 

No I really think the units on the right doors,, reasons are; theres 4 connectors on the right door, three on the drivers,, + the fuse box is on the passengers kick panel..,, but there is a main power connector going to the drivers door,, (its heavier gauge wiring and looks like its kinda fried a bit I'll post a picture) I have the specs on the 97+ and the 2000 fsm and the specs are a little different.. The 97 schematics have everything going through the right door.. I need to find the exact year the doors came off.. :roll: I keep meaning to call about that..

 

So Hornbrod, you think I should run main power off a relay just to be safe?? I know I'm going with a circuit breaker instead of being fused.. Its going to be later in the summer before I get to this mod, I still have to trim the red doors out in black.. Hopefully I get that done a week or two into April..

 

 

here's the connector.. I'm not 100% sure why its fried, but something was going on at one time.

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here's the wiring thats on the back side of that connector.. looks to be rigged up by someone.

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here's why I'm thinking the right doors have all the controls in them.. I could be reading it wrong though,, but it looks like everythings going through the passengers door..

 

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That schematic must be for a RHD. The master control unit (MCU) on all US LHD XJs through 2001 was on the drivers door. The main power lead to the MCU should be 12AWG. A circuit breaker was substituted for the fuse on post 1997 models, which I suspect was used to keep the power applied longer in case of a slightly stuck window causing more amp draw. Normally a fuse will react faster than a circuit breaker in case of high loads and/or excessive amps. I suspect a frozen regulator motor pulling 20+ amps caused your meltdown, and with the a minimum amperage fuse in place this may have been prevented. I fused my power windows w. a 20A fuse when I put them in my MJ, 5A lower than the factory. Even with both windows (vs. the 4 on a 4DR XJ) operating simultaneously, the amp draw (w/o sticking windows) is no more than 15A. I have had no problems. And I'd rather replace a fuse than a regulator of fry the wiring. :cheers:

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OK that makes a whole load of sence to me..

 

Did you draw up a diagram or just go at with your head..( :wall: ),,ummmmm I mean a mental sketch.. Where did you go for power the fuse block ??

 

I have a 91 and had previously installed an auxilliary 4-fuse block next to my power distribution center on the right inner fender. Two of the fuses were for my HI and LOW H4 headlights, one other is for my power windows, and the last is for my recent electric fan install. I made my own harnesses using OEM window switches, but did not bother with the power door locks. I'll send my window schematic if you need it, but it's for pre-1996 power windows, but the wiring is almost identical, just uses a different switch set.

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