EdJarHead Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 Trying to install aftermarket radio and got the Metra 70-1002 adapter, but the pinouts seem to be wrong. Downloaded the wiring diagram from Crutchfield and got no power on initial try. After checking the wiring on the original harness, I see #3 on connector C187 is unused, but on Metra diagram, this is where they show 12v switched power. Got the basic power stuff figured out (moved the 12v switched connector to pinout #11 which was the empty slot on the adapter) Now trying to "map" the speaker wiring, as these also seem to be off, but the diagram I found shows different colors from what I'm seeing (even accounting for fading colors and eyesight). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 More info on pinout wiring (original Jeep connector). There are two 12v ACC powered connectors, one for radio power and the other (#11 I'm guessing) for dimmer? 1-Green/White 2-Green 3-Not Used 4-Red/White (constant 12v) 5-Purple/Orange (12v ACC) 6-White 7-White/Black 8-Brown 9-Black (maybe dark gray?) 10-Orange/Black 11-Blue/White (12v ACC) 12-Black/Yellow 13-Brown/White Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 Check pages 56 & 59. _mj1988electricalmanual_1.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 50 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Check pages 56 & 59. _mj1988electricalmanual_1.pdf Thanks, Ohm! I just figured out how to read these schematics, noting the pinout numbers and helping me with the colors (wife says I'm color blind, but I think I just have a very basic pallet). The new radio has no dimmer or illumination leads, so I'll leave #10 and #11 without connections. Radio has a power antenna lead, that could work with #11, but I have no plans to ever put a power antenna on, so that lead from radio will also not connect. (Metra guide had Left and Right speaker connections backwards... would've worked, but balance adjustments would've been reversed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 Ok, I'm stumped (again). I have radio memory constant 12v wired to #4, Switched 12v to #5, good ground and speakers all hooked up properly, but does not power on (with ignition switch on). Radio does power on with direct connect to battery, and the original radio worked when pulled out. Fuses checked as well. Do either of the illumination wires #10 and #11 need to be combined with the switched 12v attachment? (#11 shows that is is also switched 12v when I tested w/multimeter). Clock illumination dims (almost completely) when the radio is fully hooked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 On 5/28/2024 at 3:43 PM, EdJarHead said: I have radio memory constant 12v wired to #4, Switched 12v to #5, good ground and speakers all hooked up properly, but does not power on (with ignition switch on). Radio does power on with direct connect to battery, and the original radio worked when pulled out. Fuses checked as well. This seems like the circuit between RADIO Fuse and C187_5 is a problem, yet original radio still worked. RADIO Fuse is powered by the IGN_SW_A (ACCY&RUN). Can you check C187_5 (KEY ON or ACCY) using a testlight. Using the testlight causes current to flow in the circuit. On 5/28/2024 at 3:43 PM, EdJarHead said: Do either of the illumination wires #10 and #11 need to be combined with the switched 12v attachment? (#11 shows that is is also switched 12v when I tested w/multimeter). Clock illumination dims (almost completely) when the radio is fully hooked up. With HD_LP_SW OFF, C187_11 receives power from the RADIO Fuse thru RELAY(OFF). Once HD_LP_SW is ON, RELAY is picked (ON) then both C187_10&11 become DIMMER circuits. This would be for a factory radio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 On 5/29/2024 at 7:15 PM, Ωhm said: This seems like the circuit between RADIO Fuse and C187_5 is a problem, yet original radio still worked. RADIO Fuse is powered by the IGN_SW_A (ACCY&RUN). Can you check C187_5 (KEY ON or ACCY) using a testlight. Using the testlight causes current to flow in the circuit. With HD_LP_SW OFF, C187_11 receives power from the RADIO Fuse thru RELAY(OFF). Once HD_LP_SW is ON, RELAY is picked (ON) then both C187_10&11 become DIMMER circuits. This would be for a factory radio. Okay, the testlight works on C187 (pin 5), and with multimeter it shows 12.4 volts with the same result for pin 11. Interestingly, the constant 12v (pin 4) is now only showing 7.6v to 10.4v when I tested that a couple times (same with key off and on) and the testlight does not illuminate for that one. Also returned the 1st aftermarket radio and tried another one (cheap Jensen) with same result. Ground connected to double spade connector on original radio chassis with harness ground, 12v ACC to red and what was originally showed as 12v constant to yellow. Also tried connecting ground to a known working ground point on dash bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 3 hours ago, EdJarHead said: Interestingly, the constant 12v (pin 4) is now only showing 7.6v to 10.4v when I tested that a couple times (same with key off and on) and the testlight does not illuminate for that one. Looks now like a voltage drop on C187_4. Should show the same reading on C188_C. If reading looks good, when measured, try wiggle testing the harness. On 5/28/2024 at 3:43 PM, EdJarHead said: Radio does power on with direct connect to battery, and the original radio worked when pulled out. Fuses checked as well. Was this 'direct connect to battery' on C187_4 or on both C187_4&5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 2 hours ago, Ωhm said: Looks now like a voltage drop on C187_4. Should show the same reading on C188_C. If reading looks good, when measured, try wiggle testing the harness. Was this 'direct connect to battery' on C187_4 or on both C187_4&5? I now have full 12v voltage on C187_4 again. Could this intermittent/changing voltage reading be what was causing the parasitic drain issue? C188 is very hard to reach, so I'll have to test there after I've taken the lower dash off, hopefully tomorrow. Radio has 2 power wires, yellow for constant/memory wired to C187_4 and red for switched power wired to C187_5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 1 hour ago, EdJarHead said: I now have full 12v voltage on C187_4 again. Could this intermittent/changing voltage reading be what was causing the parasitic drain issue? Yes. If shorted to GND or shorted to a circuit with current draw (EX: lamps) could cause drain issue. 1 hour ago, EdJarHead said: C188 is very hard to reach, so I'll have to test there after I've taken the lower dash off, hopefully tomorrow. C188_C should act the same, voltage wise, as C187_4. No need to look at it now. 1 hour ago, EdJarHead said: Radio has 2 power wires, yellow for constant/memory wired to C187_4 and red for switched power wired to C187_5 On 5/28/2024 at 12:22 PM, EdJarHead said: More info on pinout wiring (original Jeep connector). There are two 12v ACC powered connectors, one for radio power and the other (#11 I'm guessing) for dimmer? 1-Green/White 2-Green 3-Not Used 4-Red/White (constant 12v) 5-Purple/Orange (12v ACC) 6-White 7-White/Black 8-Brown 9-Black (maybe dark gray?) 10-Orange/Black 11-Blue/White (12v ACC) 12-Black/Yellow 13-Brown/White Wasn't this the pinout reading for C187? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 12 hours ago, Ωhm said: Wasn't this the pinout reading for C187? 1-Green/White 2-Green 3-Not Used 4-Red/White (constant 12v) 5-Purple/Orange (12v ACC) 6-White 7-White/Black 8-Brown 9-Black (maybe dark gray?) 10-Orange/Black 11-Blue/White (12v ACC) 12-Black/Yellow 13-Brown/White I had #3 and #5 reversed. So the switched circuit that shows as #5 on schematic is at pin #3 on my plug. No pin at 5 and no lose wires or signs of modification. Modifications have been made previously at the fuse panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 7 hours ago, EdJarHead said: I had #3 and #5 reversed. So the switched circuit that shows as #5 on schematic is at pin #3 on my plug. No pin at 5 and no lose wires or signs of modification. Looking at the posted photos, looks like C187_3 is blank. 7 hours ago, EdJarHead said: Modifications have been made previously at the fuse panel. Interesting. Needs checking into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 Better shot of C187 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 Flip that connector in your hand. Connector end views are a world of madness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 Thanks... now I feel dumb. I'll have to start over with my connections on Tuesday, though my power connections are matched up correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 Don't. Took me years and I still get fooled. Welcome to the madness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 Went away for a long weekend, and also returned radio for another as I wasn't sure it was powering on. Tried a quick connect to test new radio today. Red (switched) to red on connector (scosche JE01B) matching up to pin 5 on C187, yellow from radio to yellow on connector matching to pin 4 on C187 and also attached ground wire. No light on radio (key in, switched to ACC and On). Checked with multimeter, and again showing 12v at switched connection (pin 5) but low voltage (varied from 4v to 7v on pin 4) AND the clock dimmed almost completely. Since that wire is just for memory, shouldn't I be able to power up radio? Is this wire the same color all the way to fuze panel (assuming that's where it runs to from radio and clock)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 Confirmed today that my battery amp draw issue that started this post is on the constant 12v circuit leading to Pin 4_C187 and this is also why the new radio will not power on, as it needs 10amp 12v power from this connection. (appears to be around 6-7amps with similar low voltage when tested) Jensen (Radio) tech support suggests running a new wire to 12v constant, but I'd rather fix and use existing wiring if I can (without having to dismantle the entire dash). Any suggestions where I start? Schematic for radio shows the constant 12v line as Red/Tan and linking to Clock, but when I look at Clock schematic, it shows Red/Tan as Hot "in Run" and Orange/White as the constant 12v line from fuse panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 6 hours ago, EdJarHead said: (appears to be around 6-7amps with similar low voltage when tested) Check voltage at the following pins (fuse block, one side of fuse or the other). Looking for clean 12vdc. -ETR fuse -BATT feed (above the ETR fuse) -HD LAMP/DLY -ABS BATT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdJarHead Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 Thanks for all the help! Radio works with this clean constant 12v connection and more importantly, the parasitic draw on the battery is gone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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