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wobble question-not d/w


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so ive got the d/w under control now, but if i hit the front right tire on a bump i get a little wobble for a few seconds. the only things i have found that are problematic right now are:

 

control arm bushing holes are bigger than the bolts. can this cause wobble?

left rear wheel bearings are bad. can this cause wobble?

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control arm bushing holes are bigger than the bolts. can this cause wobble?

Yepp.

 

thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts?

 

Which control arms? Upper/Lower? In either case. replace the arm bushings and/or the arms themselves. Do not drill out the frame mounts.

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control arm bushing holes are bigger than the bolts. can this cause wobble?

Yepp.

 

thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts?

 

Which control arms? Upper/Lower? In either case. replace the arm bushings and/or the arms themselves. Do not drill out the frame mounts.

p

 

the control arms are rustys and the axle bushings are energy susp. poly (same problem with them)

i have the problem with lowers and uppers

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thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts?

:eek:

 

Why would you even consider trashing the FRAME to adapt it to a pair of wasted control arms? That's a pretty backwards approach. The idea is to modify the cheapest, easiest to replace part, not the part that can never be replaced.

 

If you have stock control arms, the bushings are replaceable, and even new stock control arms aren't that expensive from Crown Automotive or Quadratec. If you have aftermarket control arms, must either use stock bushings or rebuildable Johnny joints.

 

IMHO you should fix what's broken, not mess with the frame of the vehicle to avoid buying a $20 part.

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thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts?

:eek:

 

Why would you even consider trashing the FRAME to adapt it to a pair of wasted control arms? That's a pretty backwards approach. The idea is to modify the cheapest, easiest to replace part, not the part that can never be replaced.

 

If you have stock control arms, the bushings are replaceable, and even new stock control arms aren't that expensive from Crown Automotive or Quadratec. If you have aftermarket control arms, must either use stock bushings or rebuildable Johnny joints.

 

IMHO you should fix what's broken, not mess with the frame of the vehicle to avoid buying a $20 part.

 

yea, your right. i get it. I'm fairly new at this wrenching thing, so its good to get put back on track. thanks.

so what do i do about a oval tac bar mount hole on the axle?

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thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts?

:eek:

 

Why would you even consider trashing the FRAME to adapt it to a pair of wasted control arms? That's a pretty backwards approach. The idea is to modify the cheapest, easiest to replace part, not the part that can never be replaced.

 

If you have stock control arms, the bushings are replaceable, and even new stock control arms aren't that expensive from Crown Automotive or Quadratec. If you have aftermarket control arms, must either use stock bushings or rebuildable Johnny joints.

 

IMHO you should fix what's broken, not mess with the frame of the vehicle to avoid buying a $20 part.

 

yea, your right. i get it. I'm fairly new at this wrenching thing, so its good to get put back on track. thanks.

so what do i do about a oval tac bar mount hole on the axle?

 

THAT COULD BE YOUR WOBBLE AS WELL!!!!

 

This happens... what you can do is get yourself a grade 8 washer. Grade 8 because it will be thicker and harder than a reg washer. Weld it over the ovaled hole and bolt everything back together.

 

Only, this time....keep that bolt tight!!

 

CW

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so what do i do about a oval tac bar mount hole on the axle?

You find a friend who is a decent welder. Then you get a hardened, "heavy pattern" washer of the correct size (I believe it's 10mm but hopefully someone will either confirm that or correct me) and you have your welder friend weld it to the face of the track bar bracket.

 

That's what I did. It's been there for 10,000 miles, 8 years, and numerous off-road excursions. The washer I used came from a Jeeper buddy who is a VW technician in his secret identity. It came out of some suspension kit they use in the shop that often results in a few parts left over.

 

the control arms are rustys and the axle bushings are energy susp. poly (same problem with them)

i have the problem with lowers and uppers

Don't Rusty's arms accept stock bushings? They'll last a LOT longer than polyurethane, because they flex more.

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the control arms are rustys and the axle bushings are energy susp. poly (same problem with them)

i have the problem with lowers and uppers

Don't Rusty's arms accept stock bushings? They'll last a LOT longer than polyurethane, because they flex more.

 

I'm not sure. ive got it all put together now with the polyurethane and the little larger bolt. i think it was 7/16" didnt drill anything and fit perfectly. used grade 8. if i had to do over again id go with stock bushings. I'm so disappointed in the rustys stuff. I'm done with em. i wish i had the money to scrap the control arms all together, but right now i need to find a rear axle.

ill bet the oval trac bar hole is the culprit to the minor wobble i have. even though the bushing in the track bar is new (rustys) is seems a bit squishy as well. i wonder if a stock bushing fits in there.

 

thanks for the oval hole info. ill take it in as soon as i can.

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so what do i do about a oval tac bar mount hole on the axle?

You find a friend who is a decent welder. Then you get a hardened, "heavy pattern" washer of the correct size (I believe it's 10mm but hopefully someone will either confirm that or correct me) and you have your welder friend weld it to the face of the track bar bracket.

 

EAGLE,

Thats a great tip... I'll have to try to remember it!! :razz: :razz: :thwak: ;)

 

CW

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