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biggfisch
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Hi All.

 

Recently inherited (for $500) my grandpa's Comanche.  Its a little rough, but mostly rust free.  As far as I know I'm the third owner.  My grandparents bought it used in the early 90's with 70k miles on it to use on their property west of CO Springs, and Opa would take me on 4x4 trail maintenance trips when I was young.  I remember it being in pretty good shape 10 years ago, but he'd lent it to some folks that were down on their luck, and they trashed it out.  Anyway, I'm slowly trying to bring the old workhorse back to life to use on my property in OK.  Who knows, maybe my future grandson will want it from me.

 

1987 Jeep Comanche Pioneer

4.0L Pukegoat 5-spd w/231 D30 & D35 Longbed

Door sticker has faded and can't tell when it was built.

OKC, OK

 

Still driveable, just not reliable.  Working on getting it road trip worthy.

Truck used to have a bed liner and topper shell.  My Opa might still have the topper laying on his property somewhere.  Also has a custom speaker system, aftermarket left tail light, and Sunday exhaust (holey) courtesy of the folks that borrowed it.  They stripped it when they returned it, so no battery, radio, or cat.  The last few years in the field installed the mouse house perfume package, complete with chewed up owner's manual. 

 

Current owner: Its ugly, but its mine!

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Congrats on your new-to-you vehicle! :banana:

That's an excellent lil setup there. Like with any restoration, start slow and work your way up.
Grab a notepad and write down everything you think is wrong and address the problems one by one.
The cruiser54 tips are golden: https://cruiser54.com/
I would definitely do #1, 3, 4, 11 & 22. All these are easy, don't take too much time and are not invasive.
Additionally, look for any broken/severed vacuum lines and repair them with heatshrink or replace them. Remove any poor quality crimps or vampire clips. They are known sources of failure. I had seven crimps in my rear license plate light harness. Replace them with direct soldering and adhesive lined heatshrink when you are able. Some spots are hard to wield a soldering iron, so one good quality crimp with heatshrink is a good alternative.

 

Good luck with it! The repair can sometimes be frustrating, but it's well worth it. When you get stuck, make sure to ask questions. There's a lot of very knowledgeable folks on this forum!

 

Be the best comanche janitor you can be

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*A6  
-H9  
3LV  
AGJ Driver Assistance Group
APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE
BCQ Battery - Maintenance Free
CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK
CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR
CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ
DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual
ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS
GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS
GEC Window - Left Side, Front, Sliding
GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW
GPB DUAL - O/S MIRR PKG - LOW MOUNT - CHROME
HAA AIR CONDITIONING - FRONT
HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II
JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JGB Clock - Digital
JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE
JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP
LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT
LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS
MBF REAR BUMPER - STEP TYPE (BRIGHT)
MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED
MFD BRIGHT GRILLE - TYPE I
NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM)
NFA TANK - 23 GAL FUEL
NHM AUTO SPEED CONTROL
PX6  
QX6  
RAF Radio - AM/FM Cassette
SBA POWER STEERING
SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE
SUA TILT STEERING COLUMN
TBG SPARE TIRE - COMPACT
TBL TIRE CARRIER - INSIDE
WJM Wheels - 15 x 7.0 Chrome

 

 

Build date 1/6/87

Body code JM62

Sold by KOHL MOTORS INC, OGALLALA NE

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