Replacement Cab Heat shield

[Salvagedcircuit]

Hey guys,

I just finished repairing my floor and POR15'd everything. I cut back the original gray plastic coated foam heat shield that Jeep used from the factory. It was deteriorating in my hands and was damp, so I did not see the reason to keep it. I grabbed SEM seam sealer and hope to be seam sealing next week and conducting a waterproofing test with my garden hose. Following, I plan to install a replacement heatshield, underflooring and the new ACC vinyl floor.

 

Heat shield options:

-Dynaliner. 300F rated. $6.66/sqft

-Eastwood X-mat. 350f rated. $5.98/sqft

 

Under-floor options:

-Dynapad. 0.5in thick. $9.17/sqft

-Luxury liner pro. 0.375in thick. $8.88/sqft

-DE undercarpet. 0.375in thick. $6.06/sqft
-closed cell foam. 0.5in thick. $2.74/sqft

-closed cell foam + MLV (mass layered vinyl)

 

Sound deadening options:

3m Sound Deadening Pad 08840. 160f max. $3.72/sqft

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40068137/ 

 

Frankly, none of these options are very affordable. I am not fond of buying import products just to have to redo the process again a year down the line. That said, the dyna company expects you to have a gold plated yacht in your yard. No automotive manufacturer is paying anywhere near these prices for sound deadening or shielding. When 3m is the cheapest option, you know there's a problem!

 

It seems that thicker material yields a better thermal and sound deadening solution, so I don't mind selecting a 0.5in or 0.75in under floor / heatshield solution.

 

Let me know if you guys have come up with any other alternate solutions. Thanks!

 

[ghetdjc320]

I used dynamat followed by 3/4” dynaliner. Looks to me like that’s going to do the trick and work great

[Salvagedcircuit]

I saw your latest build. It is a marvel of a restoration. Seriously excellent work.

Unfortunately, I noticed a teaspoon of some green fluid (engine coolant) that pooled up on my new passenger side floor after a heavy rain storm. I am hoping its just the hoses to the heater core failing from old age and not the heater core itself, but there's a good chance she's a goner.

In the mean time, I will be skipping the heatshield installation until I get the coolant leak fixed.

Looking over dynapad and the Luxury liner pro, both seem to just be closed cell foam with a thin layer of MLV glued on top.

I have not ran any numbers yet, but I think I will be going with just a 0.5in or 0.75in thick closed cell foam pad underneath my ACC vinyl floor and not bother with MLV.

The ACC vinyl floor should be close enough to MLV. The vinyl floor has a uniform mass and has a consistent thickness, so I think it will work just fine considering it will sit directly on top of the closed cell foam pad.

 

The order of operations for the next round of repairs are:

-find source of coolant leak

-If heater core is the problem, replace with a 97+ one like ghetdjc320 did in his latest build

-seam seal the cab and both sides of the engine bay-firewall

-use 97+ molded coolant hoses

-convert to open system with new coolant tank and bracket from 97+ cherokee (I grabbed this from JY last time I visited)

-install inline Moroso Radiator Hose Filler in the gates coolant hose by the AC compressor bracket

-remove water pump

-install Dorman 56398 Engine Water Pump Inlet Tube. late 90s cherokees use this, makes installing coolant hoses easier.

-reassemble everything for umpteenth time.

[ghetdjc320]

I’d just recommend steering clear of the mass backing from acc. Mine turned to crumb in about 3 years and was an absolute mess.