Cabin light connectors?

[Ωhm]

13 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

can we recommend a traditional bulb for diagnosing the issue? Or is using the LED just fine?

 

I agree, any automotive 12vdc5W incandescent bulb could serve as a testlight for this purpose. If you can get these to work, you can get the LEDs to work.

 

17 hours ago, vanquishings said:

Went back in today and checked the voltage on the wires, using the actual ground as a ground, I got 12V steady, on both passenger and driver side.

 

Voltmeters don't always show voltage drops within the circuits. Testlights will tax the circuit.

[vanquishings]

3 hours ago, Ωhm said:

 

I agree, any automotive 12vdc5W incandescent bulb could serve as a testlight for this purpose. If you can get these to work, you can get the LEDs to work.

 

 

Voltmeters don't always show voltage drops within the circuits. Testlights will tax the circuit.

I tried the one of the original bulbs (the other rolled off the table and broke) that came with the euramtec. And I could not get it to function in either polarity orientation. Should I go buy another incandescent and LED, just to try? Was there anything that stood out about that LED link? With my luck, it really might just be using an incorrect LED. 
 

regarding the voltmeter, I just went back in to check for 12V because on my first pass through it, I was only getting 5. But that was operator error. 

[Ωhm]

2 hours ago, vanquishings said:

Was there anything that stood out about that LED link? With my luck, it really might just be using an incorrect LED.

Looks like they should work.

 

2 hours ago, vanquishings said:

Should I go buy another incandescent

Using jumper wires, if necessary, can you get any 12vdc incandescent bulb to work properly?

 

Try this:

When the LEDs are ON (dimly), measure voltage across the bulb, one end to the other. Should show ≈12vdc (battery voltage).

[vanquishings]

5 hours ago, Ωhm said:

Looks like they should work.

 

Using jumper wires, if necessary, can you get any 12vdc incandescent bulb to work properly?

 

Try this:

When the LEDs are ON (dimly), measure voltage across the bulb, one end to the other. Should show ≈12vdc (battery voltage).

 

Glad to see the LEDs are at least compatible. I was elbow deep in power steering pump issues today, but I'll be working on this tomorrow. I'll likely go buy new bulbs, both incandescent and LED, just to rule one more thing out. I'll be able to test voltage as well. 

 

I'll report back. Thanks for all the help. 

[vanquishings]

So, the plot thickens! 

 

Went back today with another type of LED, and some regular incandescents. 

 

These: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081VCP2KK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

and these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079SMTFKP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

I was unable to get either illuminated. 

 

I tried all there and measured for volts while they were in the housing assembly. Got zeros. 

 

With the dimly lit LED from before, I was able to get a steady reading of 8.27V testing several times. I removed the housing entirely and tested voltage from red to blk and red to blk/wht and was able to get 11.90ish every time. 

 

I'm far from an electrician, but I'm pretty stumped. 

[Ωhm]

24 minutes ago, vanquishings said:

 

With the dimly lit LED from before, I was able to get a steady reading of 8.27V testing several times

 

25 minutes ago, vanquishings said:

I removed the housing entirely and tested voltage from red to blk and red to blk/wht and was able to get 11.90ish every time.

 

Looks like we could be chasing a Voltage Drop (VD). You need a simple 12vdc test light or just make one. Example: Test Light

 

Find and disconnect C118. Make sure you have good contact between each of the pins.

 

 

C118_4 - BLK

C118_5 - RED (PNK)

C118_9 - BLK/WHT

[vanquishings]

30 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

 

 

Looks like we could be chasing a Voltage Drop (VD). You need a simple 12vdc test light or just make one. Example: Test Light

 

Find and disconnect C118. Make sure you have good contact between each of the pins.

 

 

C118_4 - BLK

C118_5 - RED (PNK)

C118_9 - BLK/WHT

 

I've got to take the lower dash off for a few other things, so I assume this will be in that area? Am I just unplugging and replugging C118 to see if that's the fix first? Forgive my ignorance here. I've got skills, but electrical know how ain't one of them!

[Ωhm]

1 hour ago, vanquishings said:

With the dimly lit LED from before, I was able to get a steady reading of 8.27V testing several times

This is what makes me think we have a Voltage Drop.

 

Plug/Unplug is a good thing for all these connectors. Voltmeters are not the best tool for finding Voltage Drops. A testlight will tax the circuit (dimly lit), if voltage drop exist on the circuit.

[vanquishings]

28 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

This is what makes me think we have a Voltage Drop.

 

Plug/Unplug is a good thing for all these connectors. Voltmeters are not the best tool for finding Voltage Drops. A testlight will tax the circuit (dimly lit), if voltage drop exist on the circuit.

 

Gotcha. 

 

Worth mentioning that all of this was done without the truck running. It's without a power steering pump right now, so once I get that and the belt back on, I'll be able to get it running and pull the lower dash. Gimme a few days to buy a test light as well. I'll report back with my findings. I appreciate all the help!