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95 Jeep Cherokee [Gypsy Danger]


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Might as well show you guys some of my other builds. 

 

1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4

 

I am gonna show you what drives me. Seems how I have been building this one for 4 years now. And I still am yet to be finished.

 

So, I started with a stock 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4. I was given this out of a old relationship. The girl who owned it didn't know much about Jeeps so it was more if you fix it, it's yours. So I went through everything that had to do with starting. So I bought a repair manual and watched multiple video's on youtube showing how to replace the sensors up and around the 4.0l. Found that the crank position sensor was shot. So a $20 replacement fixed it. I went everywhere with this Jeep.



I decided to join my Volunteer Fire Department and I saw a 1991 Jeep Comanche 2wd parked in the fire house parking lot couldn't take my eyes off of it. It was love at first sight. The owner is an old man who bought it new in 1991. And said he has driven it only in town. And I explained that I was interested in his comanche, Of course he said it wasn't for sale, but he needed a few parts and asked if I had any of the headlight bezels and grilles that would fit, And I asked if he needed help or would like it if I replaced his broken bezels? He requested that I join the Fire Department and said if you join you can work on it. So I did join. 

But back to the 95-XJ, I decided that it was time to add a lift kit as I looked around and looked at many different versions I remembered that a 3" kit would be big enough to start with, it would get my foot in the door to do more. So I looked for a cheap suspension lift. I know that some here hate Rough Country Lifts. So I bought a 3" lift kit that was in my price range.. So I had stock rims with 30x9.5R15s with a small lift. And everything started right there.... LOL

 

Drove it around until I noticed that the leaf springs were starting to bend and I was like huh, how do we fix that? Well did lots of research and ended up building bastard leaf springs which lifted the rear up 3.5, then found some pages on facebook for Jeeps and was told many times that my Jeep wasn't a Jeep and that I should sell it for a Wrangler. So right there I decided to build the ultimate XJ just because some people need to be proven wrong. So a friend of mine named Duane, and myself set out to building this thing into a Wheeler but also a Daily Driver. My buddy and I went everywhere with this rig and his Geo Tracker. Those are some of my best memories. So while I was building my XJ he was building his Geo. I have a video somewhere when his geo ran out of fuel and I was pushing him with my XJ. One night he needed a ride back to his house so I offered as he had something wrong with his geo, So we pull out on a highway that is posted 55 mph. And all hell breaks loose, I put my foot on the floor and my thought was this 1000lbs pound elk walks into my lane and I figured it would move. So I look at Duane and tell him to relax body. We had just finished watching RIPD movie, So he did and I hit this elk at what I thought was 55 mph but sadly wasn't I hit this animal at 60 mph and thought I totaled my Jeep. Yes, I was mad so I hoped out through the driver side window with a pistol and did what everyone should and put this animal out of its misery. Took Law Enforcement 3 to 4 hrs to come out to help. Explained who I was and what I did. Also explained that I did in fact put the animal down. The Officer was really understanding and asked his questions saying that it doesn't look that bad. But I thought it was.

 

So he said he would need to speak to my insurance company in my town of Packwood, Wash. And I stated that I would meet him there with the Jeep fixed. SO I explained that I live less then a mile away. And he let me drive my Jeep home. So as soon as I got home I started by popping the hood. My dad came out and asked if I was alright, and I responded in a hateful voice "Yes, I am a little mad." So my dad being the kind of man that I aspire to be. Said "Calm down and think, I know you can fix this mess" I then took a breath and asked "Hey, can you bring me the lights from the shed?" And he said "Sure." So I started removing everything that was broken on my Jeep, I took a few photos to show what I was dealing with. I spent hours while my dad was letting me fix my issue and shared a few beers with me. Knowing that I pay attention to details like the unibody was slightly bent, the fender skin was bent and the header panel was shredded. I hooked a chain up to the jeep on the corner of the unibody and pulled out the torch knowing that I might not be able to fix the damage but enough to get it to my uncle's who has a spare XJ that I have been using for parts.

 

I called my girlfriend who is now my wife and told her what had happened and she said "is there is anything she can do to help me feel better then she will do so." I explained that I would need some money to rebuild my Jeep. She said "she was on her way to me." As I heated up the unibody with the torch on the driver side I proceeded to hook a chain to a piece I used to pull dents out of other vehicles in the past. I had my dad hook it to his SUV which happened to be a S10 Blazer and pull the unibody straight enough to where I could put my spare header panel. We straightened out the bent unibody to where it was only off by 1/4 of an inch and I was happy. So the next morning I called the officer and said that I wouldn't be able to make it to my insurance to meet him and he said that was fine so we rescheduled in the next 3 days. 

 

The next morning my gf showed up and pointed out that the Jeep didn't look that bad and I must of had 1 too many beers with my dad because the header panel was fitting. I explained everything to her she gave me $200 and said go get your parts that you need. So I went an hour north to my uncles and asked if I could pull parts to fix my jeep and he requested that I just buy the other 94 XJ for $200. So I did. I parked my Jeep in front of the other Jeep as I started rebuilding mine with the parts that I knew that I needed. I pulled a 1/4 Milwaukee impact out of my jeep and started by removing the the other fenders, hood, header panel ect... I started building my Jeep right there in front of my uncle who was drinking a dr. pepper and he said if I needed anything welded then he would do it. So I pulled everything from the driver side of my 95 Jeep that was in way where I decided to cut the unibody. I drilled out the spot welds on both Jeeps and proceeded to do it the right way from the start. I asked my uncle if I could just stick weld the unibody as he said if that's what you want to do then go for it. 

 

So as the engine harness was removed from the white 94 Jeep Cherokee. As I cut the whole unibody from the Jeep. I cut the inner fender well out and proceeded to add the other parts back to where the core support should be. I then tack welded everything back to my 95 XJ. I mocked up everything and then burned a bead back to where the factory built these. And added weld protectant. I went as far as being able to put a NOS fender back on the Jeep and was able to use the factory bolts to mount the fender. I did all of this and still wasn't done. As for the bottom bolt on the fender it had to be cut from the fender so self tapping tin screws were used. I look back at the photos which make me smile. Knowing that I was able to fix my Jeep. So I posted the photos to the group and the guys who were saying that hateful stuff posted in and said that your Jeep is now built not bought. And I was shocked. 

 

I stated that I wasn't done. To where I was thinking about adding bigger tires and a different set of rims. So I went back to my insurance with my blue/white fender Jeep and both the Officer & my insurance company said that they can't believe that it's the same Jeep. as I pointed out that the vin numbers match. As on the passenger side of the unibody the vin number is stamped. And the Officer said your right, Also he stated that he owns a XJ too and I should join his group on FB. So I did. I then returned home to where my dad saw my jeep and smiled. Which made me very proud. To where do I stop build? Nope. I then went back to building this little daily. I had the chance to replace the dana 35 for a c8.25 that had to happen. So I decided to drop the old 30x9.5x15 rims and tires and go for 265/75/16 I found a set of KL Liberty rims. I knew that the offset was gonna cause rubbing so I went with a set of aluminum spacers to mount the set of tires I had bought. I had them mounted and balanced. And waited till mid December to mount them to the Jeep that was a bad Idea. I froze my butt off outside doing all this during a blizzard. 

 

So spring came around and I had some time free from work and decided that I wanted to upgrade the tires and rims to a complete set and add off road bumpers. So I looked through 4wp and amazon found some and waited for them to be delivered. I was excited and noticed that I would have to trim the fenders and I didn't have a grinder so.. I used a pair of my tin snips to cut the fenders out. That was hard and time consuming but I did it. Used tin screws to mount the fender flares as it's either fender flairs or mud flaps required here in my part of Washington State. And I was on my last warning with WSP. 

 



Once everything was done, I felt like I was building a dream. Then decided to paint the Jeep 1 color. yes it's rattle can International Blue for Farm Equipment by Ace Hardware, Then added the offroad bumpers after dropping the stock curtis hitch. 
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

This build wasn't planned in fact it was mostly done in less then 6 months of planning. I have most of the part on hand because I enjoy reading from multiple different forums like this one, Blue Oval, 72-87 Chevrolet, 30's Pontiac Forum, 99/04 WJ Forum, 60 degree Forum, 80's Celica Forum, Cherokee Forum, like the difference between a D30 HP from 1995 with ABS has the same U joints from the Dana 44. I like to retain information.
Like this: 

 

Pre-95 Cherokee XJ

Front Axle:  Dana 30 with a vacuum disconnect

Differential Location:  Drivers side

Stock axle splines:  27  (upgradeable to 30 splines)

Lug Pattern:  5 on 4.5"

Width:  60" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface

Notes:  This was not the most desirable axle due to the vacuum disconnect which was prone to failure.  A Dana 30 from a '95 1/2 or later XJ/ZJ is a common upgrade which eliminates the vacuum disconnect.  If you choose the 95+ XJ D30 it is a a stronger High-pinion version.  Many lockers are available for the D30 axle.

 

Popular Axle Upgrades:

Front Axle upgrades to replace the Dana 30 low pinion (in early XJ's and ZJ's)

High pinion D30 out of a 95+ XJ 

Notes:  This would be a bolt-in!  4 cylinder XJ versions have 4.10 gears!  This also has larger 760 u-joints!

80-91 Wagoneer Narrow-Track Dana 44

Differential Location: Drivers side

Lug pattern:  6 on 5.5"

Stock axle splines:  30 spline is common (upgradeable to 35 spline)

Width: 60" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface

Notes:  Right width for XJ or ZJ's, can be converted for 5 on 5.5 or 8 on 6.5" lug pattern, they are relatively cheap and easily found.  Avoid the vacuum disconnect version.

Identified by:  stop sign like diff cover, spring-under housing, 60" width

 

Front axle upgrades for WJ D30's  (65" width axles)
74-79 Cherokee Chief/J-truck Wide-track D44
Differential location: Passenger side

Lug pattern:  6 on 5.5" and 8 on 6.5"

Stock axle splines:  30 spline is common (upgradeable to 35 spline)
Width:  66" wide  (1" wider then WJ)
Notes: Has HD axle tubes, easy to convert to other lug patterns
New Wrangler Rubicon JK axles D44

Differential location:  Passenger
Lug pattern:  5 on 5.5"
Stock axle splines: 30 splines  (with factory e-locker)
Width:  66.75" wide  (1.75" wider then factory)

Notes:  Comes with factory e-locker, but will need the mounting brackets welded on.  A factory wiring switch can be used for a factory look and function.

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  • 1 year later...

So I was able to score a 258 4.2l L6 out of a CJ-7, Decided to rebuild it with a XJ 4.0l head and get rid of the carburator set up. Yes, I have done tons of research. Also here is the link that I followed from MotorTrend. : https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/4-0l-head-swap-on-4-2l/ 


Both the 4.0L & 4.2L engines take the same Camshaft and lifters, rods and piston rods are longer. But Like they say you will maybe not notice the difference. 

As for the transmission, decided to drop the AW4, I have a brand new rebuilt AX-15 with 4.0L L6 Bellhousing sitting in the shop. I bought it for the Skamanche build. But that is gonna take a little bit longer to build as I am currently moving. In total I now own 4 Jeep Cherokee XJs, 88, 94, 95, 96. I couldn't pass up on the 96 as it was under a grand and has 400k original miles, still drives like a fine tuned watch. I bought it from the original owner. Has had oil changes every 3,500 miles. I was shocked. But then again Gypsy has 390k on the speedometer. And its just a Jeep Jeep world for me guys. In total I own 9 Jeep models this also includes 2 ZJs, and 2 WJs.

 

In my defence I was left unsupervised. 

 

I decided to go down this route due to not wanting to deal with another 4.6l from ATK Stroker. I have had bad experiences with thier customer service. Not saying that ATK is a bad company, they just have a bad customer service. 

Moses Ludel Posted November 26, 2014

https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/481-jeep-xj-40l-to-cj-7-engine-transmission-swap/ 

Engine mounting brackets should swap over from your current 4.2L/258 inline six.  Check the back of engine/transmission length issues and the 4.0L/AX15 measurements from the bellhousing face at the engine block to the transfer case.  Take into consideration any adapter thickness, too.  This will dictate the final position of the transfer case and whether drivelines need cutting or added tube length.  If so, you'll also be repositioning the transmission/transfer case mount position on the skid plate, a relatively easy task.  The torque brace pin will need relocating, too.  If there is significant movement, check the transfer case shift lever position with the floorboard opening, this may require adjustment...Let us know what you discover here.

 

The wiring can be handled one of two ways.  If separate Mopar EFI kit parts are available, specifically the wiring harness for the first MPI/EFI kit patterned after the 1994-95 YJ Wrangler factory EFI, that would be a ready made harness and include the wiring to the fuel pump near the gas tank.  (Yes, you will need a PCM-triggered electric fuel pump, it can be externally mounted like the Mopar EFI kit pump.)

 

If this harness is not available, you're left with using the harness from the XJ Cherokee and following a wiring schematic to tie all of this together.  This does require some automotive electrical savvy, it can be done, many do it.  You'll be using everything from the PCM to the over-engine harness, EFI hookups, the coolant sensor wiring, and so forth.  Each signal that the 60-way (terminal count) PCM requires needs consideration.  If there is a wiring schematic of the Mopar EFI Conversion Kit available (possibly HESCO can supply), that would be very helpful, even if you use the XJ factory wiring. 

 

Note: Your 1991 4.0L MPI/EFI is a two-rail type and requires a return fuel line from the EFI fuel rail to the fuel tank.  This is not difficult to devise, as the 4.2L likely uses a return pipe from the fuel filter to the tank with its mechanical fuel pump system.  You can mate to that piping if it's large enough in diameter or fabricate a return pipe and hoses that will join the fuel tank at the same location as your original fuel return line.  Use higher pressure EFI-rated fuel hose and Euro or EFI type clamps.  If you want to see how all of this comes together, I cover it in detail within the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86, available from 4WD parts sources, Advance Adapters or directly from Bentley Publishers.  Here is overview material on your subject and this install:

 

1) Carburetion Versus EFI Conversion for the 4.2L Jeep Inline Six...Should you convert your 4.2L Jeep inline six to EFI? In this feature, Moses Ludel contrasts the BBD carburetor and the Mopar Performance EFI conversion kit. www.4wdmechanix.com/Carburetion-Versus-EFI-Conversion-for-the-4.2L-Jeep-Inline-Six.html

 

2) How-to: Tuning the Fuel Injected Jeep Inline Six Stroker Motor...The Jeep inline six stroker motor with EFI or MPI develops maximum performance when tuned properly. Selecting the correct MPI injectors and matching the fuel supply system to the bigger engine and higher horsepower output require the modifications described here. www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html
 
3) Jeep Fuel Pressure Requirements...Fuel pump and system pressure is different for carburetion, TBI and MPI. In this article, Moses Ludel discusses fuel pressure requirements for various Jeep engines and chassis designs. www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html  (This article has detailed and helpful illustrations, Don. View closely.)
 
3) Jeep CJ Inline Six Stroker Rebuild...Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrades. 1972-86 CJ models,1972-up Jeepster Commando models, full-size J-trucks and Cherokee 4WDs with the 232 or 258 inline six can each benefit from a 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker engine upgrade.
 
4) YJ & TJ Jeep Stroker Six Upgrade...Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrade for the 1991-up YJ and TJ Wrangler. When the original 4.0L inline six is needs rebuilding, consider the 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker rebuild option. Complete history and evaluation available here!
 
5) Rebuilding the Two-Barrel BBD Feedback Carburetor...The 1981-86 Jeep CJ models equipped with a 258 inline six have the Carter BBD two-barrel carburetor. Many owners and shops find this carburetor challenging. In this detailed 'how-to', Moses Ludel troubleshoots and restores the BBD to 'as new' standards.
 
I would say that your biggest challenge is not the mechanical side but rather the time-consuming wiring side.  I like wiring work, not everyone does.  Splices for EFI should be wire lapped and rosin flux soldered, covered with heavy duty or multiple layer heat shrink tubing.  Voltage readings are critical for EFI, simple butt-crimp connectors cannot assure a proper voltage reading, and the open ends of cheap splice connectors beg issues like corrosion and corrosion wicking up the wires.

 

This is a start

 

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