Prop valve adjust/setting

[WhiskeyBravoXJ]

My question is about the optimal setting for MAXIMUM braking from the rear drums with the bigger brake package  (2.5")

 

New to the site, I'll try to get right to the point.  I traded a great running 2k Saturn with excellent MPGs for an 89 MJ 4.0 4wd with a multitude of problems. After having fixed all the problems related to the half-assed lift and a horrific lack of maintenance (dropped track bar w poly bushings, dual steering stabilizers, V8 tie rod, steering box brace, bad P/S pump, leaking P/S lines, 20yr old rear tires, a severely leaking V/C gasket (ie burnt oil smoke coming into cab from steering column after a 5 min drive), improperly adjusted TPS idling at 1300/ .92V, clogged fuel filter, spark plugs around .070, and a bad CPS causing an intermittent spark issue, and a full rear brake rebuild), my question is related to the proper setting of the rear brake prop valve. The rod is missing from the rear axle, I'm guessing it was too short for a 4.5" lift. 

 

The truck came with 33x12.50r15s, leaking wheel cylinders, and a bad M/C. I replaced the shoes, hardware, adjusters, master cylinder, and both wheel cylinders - and fully bled the system at the rear wheels as well as at the prop valve return line

 

To the question- What position should the rear prop valve arm be in for MAX braking?

 

I had it ziptied horizontal to the ground and it stopped ok, but the ziptie broke after several months of Louisiana heat/humidity and I was literally standing on the pedal for 100+ ft trying to get it stopped from 35mph. I know I need to upgrade to a 96MC/BB, but until then I just want to get the most out menthe factory brakes, and I haven't seen anything that definitely says THIS is the best spot 

[fiatslug87]

Have you read this thread? 

 

[WhiskeyBravoXJ]

Shazam, exactly what I needed - an excuse to take my dollars to the hardware store! Looks like a much better fix than my zipties