WhiskeyBravoXJ

Thanks for all the info. I might try to get it back to the factory color if possible. The door jambs look pretty sexy when the sun hits it right. Now I'm gonna go hide from shame. In 3 years I never noticed the grille

Thanks for the info. I wish I understood more of it. Looks like it had some good options underneath. Any ideas how I could determine the original color code and trim level? I read somewhere on here that VIN 2 was a base/SporTruck, but not sure. PS - I apologize for me and Jose writing a novel about the ole girl. - another mechanic named Jason

89 Comanche 4.0L AW4 NP231 Dana 30 / 44 SWB Shreveport, LA 'Merica All door sticker info lost to time I think it was a dark blue metallic color originally (based on doorjambs, but not sure due to multi-colored panel replacement on top of super-oxidized clear coat). Currently black Rustoleum rattle can primer. Had SporTruck decals, not sure if they belonged there. Light bar works left of the glovebox latch. 1 self retaining Dakota taillight. No rust, a few minor dents from PO's play time. Rear bumper MIA, brackets KIA. Interior is a blue vinyl, appears to be all original. Bench seat, column shift, manual windows, sliding back plexiglass, and 3 rifle gun rack (that was a factory option, right?) When I got this heifer it had 33x12.50r15s (15x8 F/ 15x9 R), 4.5" coil springs / leaf springs , shocks, tube LCAs, factory track bar, death wobble, and a full-time EGR valve (6" vac hose valve to manifold lol) I added a RC drop track bar and dual steering stabilizers, Rustys steering box braces, ZJ tierod, Alloy ball joints, working master and wheel cylinders, a loud @$$ flowmaster, and a P/S pump or 10 She was passed around a lot before it ended up in my hands (traded straight up for 2000 Saturn SL). Still working on her, but got really curious if the 4.0 auto 4wd D44 combo was factory

Shazam, exactly what I needed - an excuse to take my dollars to the hardware store! Looks like a much better fix than my zipties

My question is about the optimal setting for MAXIMUM braking from the rear drums with the bigger brake package (2.5") New to the site, I'll try to get right to the point. I traded a great running 2k Saturn with excellent MPGs for an 89 MJ 4.0 4wd with a multitude of problems. After having fixed all the problems related to the half-assed lift and a horrific lack of maintenance (dropped track bar w poly bushings, dual steering stabilizers, V8 tie rod, steering box brace, bad P/S pump, leaking P/S lines, 20yr old rear tires, a severely leaking V/C gasket (ie burnt oil smoke coming into cab from steering column after a 5 min drive), improperly adjusted TPS idling at 1300/ .92V, clogged fuel filter, spark plugs around .070, and a bad CPS causing an intermittent spark issue, and a full rear brake rebuild), my question is related to the proper setting of the rear brake prop valve. The rod is missing from the rear axle, I'm guessing it was too short for a 4.5" lift. The truck came with 33x12.50r15s, leaking wheel cylinders, and a bad M/C. I replaced the shoes, hardware, adjusters, master cylinder, and both wheel cylinders - and fully bled the system at the rear wheels as well as at the prop valve return line To the question- What position should the rear prop valve arm be in for MAX braking? I had it ziptied horizontal to the ground and it stopped ok, but the ziptie broke after several months of Louisiana heat/humidity and I was literally standing on the pedal for 100+ ft trying to get it stopped from 35mph. I know I need to upgrade to a 96MC/BB, but until then I just want to get the most out menthe factory brakes, and I haven't seen anything that definitely says THIS is the best spot