2WD Spindle Style Brake/Wheelbearing Replacement

[Dzimm]

I had a hard time finding info on the brake swap for my 92 2wd MJ so I figured I'd do a writeup on it to make it easier for others.  This applies to only the spindle style 2wd brake setup that was phased out in 1993.  So any XJ or MJ up to 1992 that is 2wd should have this setup.  If anything is incorrect or you have anything to add, feel free to say so and I'll fix any mistakes.  I'd also like to say thanks to the members here who helped answer my questions when I was figuring this out myself. 

 

Parts needed per side (all are 2wd specific): 

- Brake pads

- Brake hardware

- Hub/Rotor

- Inner wheel bearing

- Inner bearing seal

- Outer wheel bearing

- Thrust washer

- Nut

- Nut retainer

- Cotter pin (5/32" fits nicely) 

 

*optional*

- Soft brake line

- Caliper

This is the parts I used with the part numbers and prices as of 10/2018 from RockAuto.  Unfortunately there are no "performance" brakes for this spindle style setup so I went with the cheapest I could find. 

 

Tools needed:

- Lug wrench

- Jack

- Jack stands

- H7 Allen socket or 7mm Allen wrench

- 1-1/16" socket (1-1/8" will work for this and also fits the yoke nuts)

- Torque wrench

- Needle nose pliers

- Wire cutters

- Block of wood

- Hammer

- Wheel bearing grease

- Bearing grease packing tool *optional*

 

*If replacing brake line or caliper*

- 3/8" line wrench 

- 9/16" socket 

- T40 Torx bit

 

 

Removal:

- Start by breaking the lug nuts loose on both front wheels, then jacking the front up and placing on jackstands. 

- Remove the lug nuts completely and pull off the wheels.  Place the wheels under the frame rail for safety. 

- Take the Allen socket and loosen the caliper bolts on the back of the caliper.  

- Pull the caliper off and either hang it from the coil spring, lower control arm, or set it on the tire that is under the truck.

- Pull the brake pads and hardware off and toss them. 

- Knock the dust cover off the hub/rotor

- Straighten the cotter pin and pull it out and pull off the nut retainer. 

- Use the large socket or pliers to loosen the spindle nut and remove it. 

- Pull off the hub/rotor. 

- Use a paper towel to clean the spindle and inspect it for any wear or damage. 

 

If changing calipers and/or brake hose:

- Use the 3/8" line wrench to disconnect the hard line. 

- Use the Torx bit to remove the soft line mount bolt. 

- Toss the old line and caliper unless you prefer to rebuild the old caliper. 

- Prep the new caliper and hose by installing the new hose while the caliper is on the bench and lube up the caliper slide bolts. 

- Bolt the new soft line mount to the truck and attach the hard line. Set the caliper back on the tire or tie it up so it's not hanging by the hose. 

 

Installation:

- Set the hub/rotor on the bench with the lug bolts facing down.  Check to see if it came with bearing races pre-installed.  If not, you will need to press in the bearing races on both the front and back of the hub/rotor. 

- Take the inner bearing and pack it full of grease with the proper tool or by using a gloved hand to pack it.  (Tons of how to videos online about packing bearings). 

- Place the bearing into the back of the hub/rotor.

- Take the inner bearing seal and place it over the bearing and use a block of wood and hammer to tap it in evenly.  Take your time and be careful not to damage the seal and make sure it goes in evenly. 

- Flip the hub/rotor over and pack the outer bearing with grease.  Set the outer bearing in place. 

- Use some brake cleaner on a rag to clean the friction surface of the rotor to remove the oils from the factory. 

- Slide the hub/rotor onto the spindle. 

- Place the new washer onto the spindle. 

- Thread the new spindle nut on until it's snug.  

- Use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 20 ft/lbs while turning the hub/rotor to seat the bearings. Then loosen the nut by 1/2 a turn.  Finally, torque the nut to 19ft/lbs while turning the hub/rotor. 

- Slide the nut retainer on and align the cotter pin hole with a slot in the retainer.  The spindle nut can be loosened just enough to line up the hole. 

- Slide the largest cotter pin you can into the hole and bend the legs around the spindle in opposite directions. 

- Tap the dust cover back into place. 

- Clean and place a little brake grease on the caliper bracket arms where the pads slide.  

- Install the brake hardware and brake pads.

- Set the caliper back into place and tighten the caliper bolts.  If reusing the old caliper, the caliper piston will need to be pushed back with a c-clamp.  Open the brake reservoir to make that process easier. 

- If the brake line or caliper was replaced, the brakes will need to be bled.  Start at the rear passenger, then rear driver, then passenger front, and last is driver front. 

- Put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts. 

- Pull out the jack stands and drop the truck. 

- Tighten the lug nuts the rest of the way. 

 

Test drive! 

 

[HOrnbrod]

Nice writeup.    Did you know that some brake pads have different inboard and outboard pads? I'm still not sure if it's true for all of them, but it sure was with the Wagner pads I last used...

 

 

[Dzimm]

2 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

Nice writeup.    Did you know that some brake pads have different inboard and outboard pads? I'm still not sure if it's true for all of them, but it sure was with the Wagner pads I last used...

 

 

Thanks and yes actually.  The ones I pulled off and the ones I put on are that way but it's hard to tell without putting them side by side.  I accidently grabbed two outers and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go on the inside.  Had to compare to the old pads to figure it out.  At least with these, you physically can't put an outer on the inside because it won't go in at all.  I would add pictures of the difference but I the old pads are already gone. 

 

I know with the 4wd pads they are attached to the caliper and that's what in used to, it was different to have them essentially attached to the rotor with this setup. 

[HOrnbrod]

Those Wagner pads will go on either way. Drove me nuts for a few days...     And there's nothing in the FSM statingany pad differences.

[Dzimm]

5 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

Those Wagner pads will go on either way. Drove me nuts for a few days... 

Yeah I just read through your thread.  Sounds like you had a fun time with that one.  Good you got it figured out though, that would have sucked to be there permanently.