SBpunk Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 So I'm about done with this thing. After getting pissed about the over heating I decided to do something different and move the air temp sensor to the air filter lid. Easy project no big deal. Once I was done I decided to run the codes just to make sure nothing was shorting out. Popped a 12, 13, 23, 24 and 35. I've gone through and check them all out individually and aside from the ground was wondering if there's anything that would cause this type of chaos? I ordered an NTK O2 sensor since I keep getting horror stories about Bosch but the MAP and IAC are both new Mopar parts. Also anyone have a good link for relays that'll fit in the fuse block. I have a few but they have the hanger on the back. Could grind them down to fit but seems like a waste? 13**: No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP) from start to run. 23**: Intake air temperature sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage. 24**: Throttle position sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage. 35*: (XJs only) Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 I got the same #23 code when I moved the IAT to the intake tube. The only thing it did for me was make the mileage worse. Moved it back to the intake, no problems. For the MAP #13 code, check the 5VDC reference voltage at the connector using the 3-pin connector ground. Tolerance is tight for this, + or - .3VDC. Then check the output voltage at idle. There are plenty of write-ups online for this. Never had a TPS code, but I think getting rid of the MAP and IAT codes might clear it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 I got the same #23 code when I moved the IAT to the intake tube. The only thing it did for me was make the mileage worse. Moved it back to the intake, no problems. For the MAP #13 code, check the 5VDC reference voltage at the connector using the 3-pin connector ground. Tolerance is tight for this, + or - .3VDC. Then check the output voltage at idle. There are plenty of write-ups online for this. Never had a TPS code, but I think getting rid of the MAP and IAT codes might clear it up. Was reading through the write ups was pretty late last night so haven't had a chance to test since I'm at work still. I'll probably end up moving the air sensor back if it keeps going also. Was worth a shot. Getting ready to shoot you a msg too got a quick question about something off topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 If you can, backprobe the connector. I had a loose solder joint that threw the TPS and MAP voltage out of whack but only when both were connected. Individual connector probing and the 5V read fine, connect both and it dropped to ~3.2V. I got 12,13, and 24 together everytime. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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