Alternator Question

[SBpunk]

I know this is a bit repetitive but needed some feedback before I pulled the trigger. Last time I screwed up and took some modification that ended up messing some stuff up in my electrical system. 

1992 HO 4.0 etc etc and got new cables from MeanLemons (thanks btw they look great!), new yellow top battery and now looking into a 136 amp alternator. Going to be running a winch and OBA (ARB dual compressor) and don't want to mess with trying to wire in a second battery. So to the actual question, this alternator should bolt right up with some modification to the bracket correct? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-VAN-TRUCK-DAKOTA-CHEROKEE-ALTERNATOR-136-AMP-/152218479520?fits=Year%3A1998%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3AGrand+Cherokee&hash=item2370edaba0:g:v4oAAOSwgZ1XvxoK&vxp=mtr

I'm not looking to cut the original harness if I don't have to and I know the plastic piece in the back of the alternator might need to be trimmed down to fit the connection. Also looks like I might need to swap out the pulley to get the full amperage. On another subject I'm going to look into getting and idle switch like the police packages used to have to increase the idle when winching. Thanks

[Blue88Comanche]

eBay has some rebuilt alternators that where rewired? To increase the output. Mine was a direct bolt on replacement with a 200 amp output. I upgraded to if for the winch, and aux electrical items. That and my current battery / alternator where both bad....

 

 

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[Blue88Comanche]

Here is an example

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282350424634

 

This one claims to be a new 200 amp alternator for Jeep TJ with a 4.0 or 2.5.

 

 

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[HOrnbrod]

I put a 136A alternator in years ago and it required no cutting or grinding on the bracket. It was tight getting it to squeeze in, but it fit. Others have reported slight bracket grinding was required; mine didn't. And the plastic piece doesn't need any trimming; just needs to be reclocked. That will be obvious when you reconnect the wiring harness to the new alternator.

 

The "fast idle" option switch applies a ground to ECU pin 30 on the HOs. You can't do it with the 91 and 92 4.0 models, as ECU pin 30 doesn't exist on these models. Might work if you swap in a 93 or up ECU or open up and modify the stock ECU.

 

 

 

[SBpunk]

Here is an example

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282350424634

 

This one claims to be a new 200 amp alternator for Jeep TJ with a 4.0 or 2.5.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Nice! It just bolted straight up no mods?

 

I put a 136A alternator in years ago and it required no cutting or grinding on the bracket. It was tight getting it to squeeze in, but it fit. Others have reported slight bracket grinding was required; mine didn't. And the plastic piece doesn't need any trimming; just needs to be reclocked. That will be obvious when you reconnect the wiring harness to the new alternator.

 

The "fast idle" option switch applies a ground to ECU pin 30 on the HOs. You can't do it with the 91 and 92 4.0 models, as ECU pin 30 doesn't exist on these models. Might work if you swap in a 93 or up ECU or open up and modify the stock ECU.

 

 

 

Sweet thanks! If this 200amp one doesn't pan out I'll be ordering this guy hahaha. Sucks about the idle control. Maybe I'll mess with the cable for the throttle. They have something similar in military hummers.