Door Swap

[HOrnbrod]

The Mopar regulators are pretty slow. If and when you need a replacement, and I hope you don't, try a replacement from the link above. I had a couple of 96 and below XJs, and the Electric Life regulators were quite a bit faster. But the ones I got originally were made in Italy, who knows about now. Maybe they are C.R.A.P.'s.

[johnj92131]

I can tell you that the 97+ power window regulators are much less expensive that the earlier window regulators.

 

I can also tell you that I have had at least 3 different electric window regulators/lifts on the passenger side and all of them have been very slow, Including the Electric Life Don suggests.  So it looks to me that I have a friction problem in my window frame or a electrical issue with voltage to the window.  A bit of graphite in the window channels seems to help for a little while.  The drivers side window has been fine since I got the power windows in 2009/10. 

 

When I got both replacement doors, one of the vent window was broken and the yard changed the vent window before I picked up the doors.  I think this was the start of my window issues.

[HOrnbrod]

The passenger door window isn't used as much so there's probably more drag going up and down. That and the puny factory cross-body wiring contribute to slooooooow down the windows. I made my own harnesses for the windows using heavier gauge wiring so I'm sure that helped in my case.

[johnj92131]

The passenger door window isn't used as much so there's probably more drag going up and down. That and the puny factory cross-body wiring contribute to slooooooow down the windows. I made my own harnesses for the windows using heavier gauge wiring so I'm sure that helped in my case.

 

Don, that is a good thought on the cross body harness.  I really don't know what was used to make the cross body harness in my truck.  Had a shop do it and hook up the reading light rear view mirror at the same time.  And those reading lights have burned out a few bulbs over time.  Hmm, kind of points towards the wiring again?  One last thing...the p/w switch on the passenger door is works backwards.  Press down, window goes up.  Press up, window goes down.

 

I really did not want to get into the under dash wiring the first time around.  So I just run the a/c all the time.  Likely will just keep the a/c on all the time.

[HOrnbrod]

 

The passenger door window isn't used as much so there's probably more drag going up and down. That and the puny factory cross-body wiring contribute to slooooooow down the windows. I made my own harnesses for the windows using heavier gauge wiring so I'm sure that helped in my case.

 

Don, that is a good thought on the cross body harness. One last thing...the p/w switch on the passenger door is works backwards.  Press down, window goes up.  Press up, window goes down.

 

Three wires are all that's needed from the left door switch to the right door switch for the windows. To get your right door switch working correctly just swap the two regulator motor wires.  :thumbsup:

[Just a comment]

I think it's important to note that swapping the doors gives you a whole lot more than just power windows and or locks. The newer doors are much safer and stronger in the event of a side impact collision, between the additional cross bar "impact" bar built in to the outer door skin and the modern striker that is less likely to pop open in a collision, the newer doors are worth the swap in my opinion. By simply changing the striker you can easily gain a stronger, quieter, door with bigger glass opening that is all ready to go with power windows and locks with remote entry. Just my two cents.

[cquinnball]

When swapping doors to the 97+ can I keep the old style interior door panel or do I need to swap to the 97+ interior panel?  TIA.