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Grinding a CV...


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As in internally clearancing a double-cardon joint for higher angles of operation.

 

 

 

Anybody here done it? You don't hear much about it. But apparently you can get 35* out of a 1310 CV body with no appreciable loss of strength. That is, it's still going to be stronger than a lot of the things in your drivetran.

 

 

Tom Woods will do it if you pay him. But I mean, I'm a dude with an angle grinder and way more spare parts than money. So it's not really a good option.

 

 

So, anybody got any information? A how to? Anything? Or should I just tear one apart and dye it and see if I can figure out a contact pattern?

 

 

 

And as a total aside, does anybody know why certain 1310 CVs found in jeep front applications have holes drilled through the main body? I have one that looks like it was lightened and balanced (ground off the casting lines, but in a praticular fashion, and drilled two 3/4" holes through the main body). It might have even been the original to my MJ. Yet most of the ones I pick up are not like this...

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I have done mine in my TJ twice now. I have about 5" of lift and a flat belly. I am running a Tom Woods shaft and short SYE, but still have some issues at full droop.

 

I mark with magic marker and carefully releave with air grinder and burr. Put it back on and repeat. Teatious and time consuming but do able.

 

Last year the centering bal went in that shaft. I returned it to Tom Woods for a rebuild. He informed me about a new carrier avalible for hi-angle vehicles like mine. I cost me almost 300 for a complete rebuild with this new forged carrier and all new gold seal joints and a centering ball. I complained saying I bought the better shaft three years back and it has a lifetime warrenty. I was told the warenty was on the joints not the centering ball or the carrier. these where the problems that caused the joints to go and there fore where not covered......not to cool in my mind.

 

What could I do. I needed the shaft...and man I guess I got it huh!!!

 

CW

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