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My fuse box, connector/terminals problems


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ok, here's a picture of the "burnt" terminals, in my fuse box, I want to bypass this terminal, with this piece(single fuseable link) I bought the other day, should'nt this work? If I take out the fuse box, find the right wire's, splice this part in, and put it back together.

here's the burnt terminals, look at it, and compare it to the "shiny" good one, to the left of the bad one,

http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1861/8 ... 121463.jpg

 

ok, here's the part, or piece, I want to wire in;

http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1861/8 ... 734763.jpg

 

think it'll work?

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The photo of the fuse panel is too small to see much of anything.

 

That wire in the second photo is not a fusible link -- it's a fuse holder. A fusible link is a piece of wire that's "sacrificial" -- it melts when the circuit is overloaded, then you have to replace the wire. Dumb idea, IMHO, and I would never replace a fuse with a fusible link. What you show would work, but I hate gerry-rigging stuff when it can be repaired properly. I would either clean up the terminals in the fuse panel or just replace the fuse panel.

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Eagle, you're right. about fixing it right the first time, I just don't know how. I've gotten the fuse panel pulled out, and, just about fainted when I saw everything that was behind it! I have some contact spray, but, what is the best way to clean everything?

I mean, someone else told me not to take any wires out, or off. Id never get them back where they all go. Right now, I'm trying to find where the wires to the bad terminals are, and see how they look.

not trying to be stupid or anything, but, that spray/cleaner only works if you spray it on, and brush it clean, right? I mean, it won't do no good to just spray it into the connectors back there, without putting some elbow greese into there also, would it?

I just don't want to bite off more than I can chew with this, and end up with a major problem, cause I was just trying to get the blinkers, and wipers working, know what I mean?

I'm sure, If you could see the burnt terminals, compared to the clean, shiny brass one's, you would agree that the problem might lie in there, somewhere.

Please tell me what I can do to get this connect. fixed, cleaned, or, bypassed. Please take it to mind, that I DO want to do it right the first time, not jerry rig it!

thanks, John

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One of the things I thought about doing...before I took it to the shop to get it sorted..was to take the leads from the burnt out fuse location (yeah I've got one too) and put them on a location that isn't currently being used, like 'heated windows' for example.

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ok, here's a picture of the "burnt" terminals, in my fuse box, I want to bypass this terminal, with this piece(single fuseable link) I bought the other day, should'nt this work? If I take out the fuse box, find the right wire's, splice this part in, and put it back together.

here's the burnt terminals, look at it, and compare it to the "shiny" good one, to the left of the bad one,

 

Your pics are small, but it looks the burnt fuse contacts are for the Turn Signals. This should be a 20A fuse. Do you have a meter, or even a 12V test light? You will need one or the other, preferrably a meter so you can measure 12VDC and also check for shorted and open circuits. The first thing is to check and make sure you have 12V on one of the burnt contacts. All fuses in the block will have 12V on one side. The other side goes to the device. Then at least you will know if the problem in the circuit is either upstream toward the device, or downstream toward the power supply. And in order to troubleshoot each circuit you will need wiring diagrams, like in the Factory Service Manuals for your vehicle to check for power at various points along the circuit. A set of FSM's will pay for themselves many times over. Also, check this URL: http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/edge_cherokee.html

MIght be the wiring diagram you need there.

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