Long arms and lift help me build it.

[moparcyco]

Alright guys here is what I'm starting with.91 short bed 4x4 Dana 30 front with the disconnect=trash Dana 35 rear also trash.I have a xj 44 built for the rear will be doing soa so no big deal there.The front is a wagoneer 44 with chevy flat tops for high steer.both with Yukon zip lockers and chromos for 35 km2's or 36 iroks.so my question to you guys is if you had a blank slate how would you build this?

 

Also the wagoner 44 has the tnt truss/coil mount truss on it with the high clearance lower control arm mounts.What do you guys feel is the best crossmember/bellypan for a mj?Is there a mj specific one or get a xj and modify/ who's is best and why?also who has good off the shelf arms for this combo(if any)or is a guy better off fabbing up a set?I really want to three link ths setup so I have looked at all the kits.I have had only my current xj before this on short arms and drop brackets so any and all advice and opinions are welcome.also for lift I;m thinking 4.5 cols with acos (already have acos) so I can fine tune the front.

 

Also anyone here using a waggy 44 front?What are you using for steering?There are a lot of articles on the subject but I like to here first hand what works or what you might change.sorry for the long winded post.So how would you build this?Thanks guys

 

 

[Timeless]

Alot of what you are asking is really up to you.  Search, review manufacturers information and reviews and figure out if the product fits your needs/goals.

 

Just about an XJ long arm cross member will bolt up to an MJ with minimal modification provided you have a 4.0L engine with either an AX15 or AW4 trans.  There are variation in the cross members that are transmission specific.

 

SOA in the rear will net you more than 4.5" of lift.  You're going to max out the adjustment range on the ACOS with 4.5" front springs.  Plan to get 5.5" coil springs or even 6".  My recent SOA netted about 6.5" of lift.

 

Good move on wanting to run a 3 link.  Look at Rock Krawler and Clayton.  I think Poly Performance might still make an XJ 3 ink kit, but I'm not sure.  I built my 3 link off of the Clayton 3 link cross member and their front axle bridge.  The only problem I had is that there is (IMO) too much separation btwn upper and lower links at the axle end and a bit too much on the cross member side for a "bolt on" install.  The floor needs to be modified to clear the upper link.  Also, at 6.5" of lift, the upper is just barely level.  Any less and it would be angled upward (not good).  I had a Rock Krawler 3 link on my old rig with about 5.5" of lift and this was not a problem at all.

 

I can't help you much on the Waggy 44 steering.  I never messed with high steer, only OTK.  You will need to shift the track bar up on the axle end to work with the high steer drag link angle.  Plan on fabricating a steering system with 1 ton TRE's.  Barnes and Ruff Stuff have pre-packaged "kits" available.

[moparcyco]

I have looked at all options so much so I am confusing myself lol.I was thinking the clayton kit look the best as it has the best looking crossmember but was wondering if square tubing is as good as round?RK kit looks good as well as BDS.I don't have a lot of guys local who run Cherokees or comanches so I have to rely on the forums sometimes just want to build it right the first time.Thanks for the heads up on the 4.5 in springs was hoping to not have to lift it that much and do some trimming.Thanks for the reply and keep the suggestions coming!

[mnkyboy]

My brother abuses the crap out of his Clayton 3 link and it just keeps taking it.

 

On mine i am building my own so I can address the frame side seperation issue stated above, most bolt on kits can only achieve 3"-3.5" seperation, I'm after around 7" so my upper link is going to be through the floor.

[FrankTheDog]

I know of several rigs that run Clayton's and they suffer a lot of abuse.

When they do manage to break something Clayton stands behind his products. All well engineered equipment.