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Soa Need Help Badly!


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Spring wrap has to do with length of perches. Buy the 7" long perches and use those.

 

Rotational (driveshaft) torque can turn the pinion, but when you set pinion angle, on a simple two ujoint driveshaft, there is very simple criteria to follow:

 

Pinion angle is to match the angle of the output shaft (obviously measuring with the gauge facing one side of the vehicle throughout the process). Our driveshafts are plenty long to safely do this without making contact with anything.

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Spring wrap has to do with length of perches. Buy the 7" long perches and use those.

 

Rotational (driveshaft) torque can turn the pinion, but when you set pinion angle, on a simple two ujoint driveshaft, there is very simple criteria to follow:

 

Pinion angle is to match the angle of the output shaft (obviously measuring with the gauge facing one side of the vehicle throughout the process). Our driveshafts are plenty long to safely do this without making contact with anything.

I bought 8 inch long perches already! Thanks! But could you simplify that last paragraph?

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http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-set-driveline-pinion-angles-1214507/

 

Using a dial indicator, make the axle pinion match the transfercase output angle.

 

 

Remember that if you reposition the dial indicator by 180 degrees, you will have to invert the measurement of the opposing end by 180 degrees.

 

So, if you measure the trans output at positive 7 degrees, then use the same side of the indicator on the axle pinion, do not set it at positive 7. Doing so will nose dive it down by 14 degrees from where you need to be.

 

Positive 7 then flipping the indicator 180 degrees to use the same side means you need to set it at negative 7 degrees.

 

Please tell me you have a 220v wire feed welder running 25/75.

 

110v welders have zero chance of achieving proper penetration on the axle tube unless you preheat the tube to 400 degrees before welding.

 

 

Btw, 400 degrees is easy to get to and know you have gotten to. Grind the area where the welds will be.

 

Then turn on the acetaline on the torch, with the acetaline only opened a smidge. You want it puffing black smoke. The score the ground-off area with the smoke to blacken it. Then turn on oxygen and set torch at proper mix, and proceed to heat. The blackened film will disappear at exactly 400 degrees. That will give you max penetration with a 110v welder.

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http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-set-driveline-pinion-angles-1214507/

 

Using a dial indicator, make the axle pinion match the transfercase output angle.

 

 

Remember that if you reposition the dial indicator by 180 degrees, you will have to invert the measurement of the opposing end by 180 degrees.

 

So, if you measure the trans output at positive 7 degrees, then use the same side of the indicator on the axle pinion, do not set it at positive 7. Doing so will nose dive it down by 14 degrees from where you need to be.

 

Positive 7 then flipping the indicator 180 degrees to use the same side means you need to set it at negative 7 degrees.

 

Please tell me you have a 220v wire feed welder running 25/75.

 

110v welders have zero chance of achieving proper penetration on the axle tube unless you preheat the tube to 400 degrees before welding.

 

 

Btw, 400 degrees is easy to get to and know you have gotten to. Grind the area where the welds will be.

 

Then turn on the acetaline on the torch, with the acetaline only opened a smidge. You want it puffing black smoke. The score the ground-off area with the smoke to blacken it. Then turn on oxygen and set torch at proper mix, and proceed to heat. The blackened film will disappear at exactly 400 degrees. That will give you max penetration with a 110v welder.

I have a 110v! But my friend who drives the smashasarus monster truck has a 220 and he was going to help me weld tomorrow! Thanks a lot for the info!

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