Eliminator89 Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Yes ladies and gentlemen, the Comanche sputtered to life today for the first time in TWO(!) years! Two years ago I blew a piston. Took a notch out of the side of the #5 piston, the lands and the rings. I parked it and went on with my life. I always meant to fix it but... Today, I got it done! Geez it took a long time to get it to fire. My brother had done the piston replacement when we were going to fix the truck for his son. He also replaced the rod bearings. The young man totally screwed the pooch on this deal and I took the truck back. So I've been working on it and finally got it done. And, I only had 2 bolts left over. Good thinking by the Jeep engineers to include a couple extras. When my brother and his son disassembled the top of the engine, they neglected to mark the injector wires for firing order. After chasing my tail for a while, I got them right. I also found when my brother put the head back on, he had one pushrod out of place. that was an easy fix. I was not looking forward to removing the valve cover agian, so I pulled the oil cap to look in there. I could only see one rocker arm. Wanna guess which one was causing the trouble? Yep, that one I could see. That was the bad one. What are the chances? Yes, I bought a lottery ticket... So, now I need to check the brakes. They were mushy and the pedal went too far down. Should be good to go next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Mushy brake pedal? Goes down too far? Check the master cylinder and I'll bet you find the small chamber (for the rear) empty. Check the hard line where it runs over the gas tank, and check the hard line on the rear axle, from the junction block out to the wheel cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eliminator89 Posted April 8, 2007 Author Share Posted April 8, 2007 Mushy brake pedal is bad rear brake lines (squirts everywhere). Rusty. Rrruuussstttyyy!!! Gonna need to replace them from the front to the back. Made a preliminary online search for the rear proportioning valve but found nothing (NAPA, AutoZone, Carpart.com). This may get interesting. Mine is probably still good but I figured I would replace it with new. I know I would probably not die if I eliminate it but its going to remain. I may have to send mine out to be rebuilt if I can't find a new one. So, this means a couple more weeks before its on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 remove the prop valve altogether...it's a PITA. put a cherokee style one up front and you're good. I'm sure other members here can fill you in on the details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eliminator89 Posted April 9, 2007 Author Share Posted April 9, 2007 Thanks but I'm going to keep it if its at all possible. I'll either find a new one or have mine rebuilt. For all I know, mine is working just fine. Its just that when I work on something like this, I prefer to replace everything with new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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