Alicia Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I just recently got my Idler Arm fixed and now it seems I have another problem that wasn't there before or I just didn't notice it until now. When I push my brakes my truck severely pulls to the left, so much that I now don't feel safe driving her :-( when it come to the braking systems and diagnosing the problems with them I'm not very educated. Can someone help me please?? Or give me somewhere to start??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 For starters, I would try to narrow the problem down to front or rear. It has been decades since I encountered a severe brake pull problem, but if memory serves, a test would be to go to a LARGE parking lot at a time when a big chunk of it is empty. Get rolling at around 15 to 20 MPH, going straight, hold the steering wheel lightly with just your finger tips ... and stomp on the brake pedal. What happens? If the truck swerves to the left but the steering wheel stays fairly straight in your hands, look to the rear. If stomping on the brakes yanks the steering wheel out of your hands, look to the front. If the issue is front, I would suspect a frozen caliper ... especially if the truck hasn't been driven for awhile. If that's the problem, pull 'em both off and trade them in for a pair of rebuilts. P.S. Idler arm? On an MJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alicia Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 Ah Idler arm was a problem my old Dodge used to have. I ment to say Pitman arm. Good catch :-) Tested what you said and the wheel JERKS hard left. Will be working on the calipers. Thank you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Ah Idler arm was a problem my old Dodge used to have. I ment to say Pitman arm. Good catch :-) Tested what you said and the wheel JERKS hard left. Will be working on the calipers. Thank you!! Frozen calipers are a problem with disc brakes, and not uncommon if the vehicle has been sitting for awhile. These days, it's probably not worth the effort to try to clean them and rebuild them. Much easier to just trade them in as cores and buy a pair of rebuilds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajohnson928 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Usually a pull caused by the brakes will be on the front axle. Often the pull is caused by the opposite side than the pull is (the brakes on one side don't work, the other side does, the side working creates more drag and pulls to that side). The problem is most likely a frozen caliper or damaged rubber brake line. But there is an outside chance that it's caused by the master cylinder or proportioning valve. Hope that helps. (ASE certified brake tech for 5 years) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alicia Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 That does help, now I know what side to start on. I also noticed a lot of brake dust on my passanger side front wheel- which makes sense. I heard from a friend that the caliper will automatically stop working if the brake pad gets to low... I've never heard of this before... Is this true? And while looking for new calipers I noticed there is a bit of a selection from really cheap to top dollar ones. Since I get paid in a few days would it be best if I get the more expensive ones?? Is there that much of a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I heard from a friend that the caliper will automatically stop working if the brake pad gets to low... I've never heard of this before... Is this true? Nope. My wife destroyed a rotor on her XJ by ignoring a "funny noise." I knew what it was just by backing it out of the garage. When I asked her why she didn't tell me when it started squealing, so we could have saved the rotor, she said, "I thought all Jeeps made noises like that." Never mind she had been driving it for 50,000 miles withOUT any such noises ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alicia Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 I didn't think it was true. I might be a girl but I know my fair share when it comes to my truck... I've just never worked on the brakes before except changing brake pads on my buddy's S10 about three years ago. So I have a lot more knowledge to obtain, and no better place to get it then here :-) I bet that rotor was shreds!! LoL the good thing is I didn't hear any squealing before this so I'll cross my fingers and hope I didn't mess up my rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajohnson928 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 The price difference on calipers is usually based on if it's "loaded" (comes with pads and hardware) or "bare" just the caliper itself. Also if it's new or remanufactured. The cheapest option probably isn't the best but there's no reason to go top of the line either. The piston in the caliper can get stuck if it overextends because of thin pads but it doesn't automatically stop working altogether. If the caliper needs to be replaced be sure to get new copper washers for the banjo bolt where the hydraulic line comes in. And I always suggest replacing them in pairs just to help keep the pressure even on the rotors up front. PM me if you need any other or more detailed info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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