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yes it is, and it's probably the #1 cause of no spark.

Check it with a DMM set to Ohms, I think it's supposed to ohm out between 300 and 500 when it's hot.

Don't quote me on that one, if it's shorted or open then it's definitely bad.

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This is what my book says

 

ENGINE SPEED SENSOR TEST

1) Disconnect the engine speed sensor connector from the

ignition control module.

2) place an ohmmeter between terminals "A" and "B" (marked on

the connector). On a hot engine, the resistance reading should be

between 125-275 ohms.

3) Replace sensor if readings are not within specification.

 

But you transplanted the HO in right? Don't know if the ohms are the same or not.

And a Q of my own, Since you can't test a sensor warm when it won't start, will a bad CPS result in non continuity between the terminals??

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This is what my book says

 

ENGINE SPEED SENSOR TEST

1) Disconnect the engine speed sensor connector from the

ignition control module.

2) place an ohmmeter between terminals "A" and "B" (marked on

the connector). On a hot engine, the resistance reading should be

between 125-275 ohms.

3) Replace sensor if readings are not within specification.

 

But you transplanted the HO in right? Don't know if the ohms are the same or not.

And a Q of my own, Since you can't test a sensor warm when it won't start, will a bad CPS result in non continuity between the terminals??

They are not the same. In fact, not even close.

 

I have never figured out how you are supposed to test a CPS at operating temperature if the engine won't start. I have tested a known-bad CPS at room temperature, out of the vehicle, and the ohm reading on that one was within 25 ohms of the replacement as it came out of the box. My conclusion is that any attempt to "test" a CPS is a waste of time and effort. It's a PITA but, if the CPS is suspect, change it. If that works, you found the problem. If it doesn't work, keep the old one as a trail spare and keep diagnosing.

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