SantaCruzComanche Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 hey my turn signals only work when my headlights/parking lights are on. I just recently pulled the fuse box and did a thorough cleaning due to a leaking clutch master cylinder. I also replaced the headlight dimmer switch. Before that I had no instrument lights, wipers, turn signals, or heater. I am stoked to finally have everything working, but only with my headlight switch engaged. Does anyone have any advice for fixing this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Optimaldave Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Check the grounds and sockets, bad grounds can cause back feeding in the circuit and have the indicators on with the headlights so it may be your issue. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26001 Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SantaCruzComanche Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 Thanks but I have already replaced both front markers with new fords. I cleaned and oxgarded all the headlight connections behind the housings, and the c102 connector. I will try pulling and sanding the headlight bulbs to see if that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Try this: Improving the Instrument Panel Ground The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple. Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Revised 11-29-2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SantaCruzComanche Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 I appreciate the help but i had already done that too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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