Jump to content

Clutch and Rear Diff. HELP please


Recommended Posts

my internal slave clutch is starting to :mad: me off... I was doing some reading for the external swap, just want to make sure i have the right idea:

 

External Bellhousing: ebay has one for a 94 wrangler comes with the fork

flywhell: what will i need for sure?? do i keep the current one? I have an 88 with an 89 AX-15 /w internal slave

clutch line: ?

New Pilot bearing: ?

 

anything else?

 

---------

 

I swapped the D44 from dad's mj, its has been making a whining noise from the time we got the MJ. it starts around 50 MPH. what is the most probable cause?

 

 

-------

 

 

thanks for the help. its only been 4 months sense the transmission was replaced and now my MJ is a lawn ordainment again. Monday I will be talking to another local Mechanic about getting it moving again, he was a friend of my mom's in high school so we trust him and he is willing to do the work at my house so i won't need to trailer the MJ to him. depending on the cost i may wait till i can do the external swap first.... this whole clutch issue is making me want to swap it to an AW4 i have...

 

or would it be better in the long run to just have the mechanic swap the AW4 from my donor Jeep? :???: :dunno:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What about the clutch is driving you nuts? Chatter, shaking, burning smell, slipping and inconsistent RPMs, not disengaging? How many miles on this clutch kit and slave? I'm not an expert but there are plenty on here. Describe the symptoms and I bet the experts can help narrow it down before you get dedicated to a tranny swap you may not need. Whether you go auto or keep a standard, potential problems still come with either transmission.

 

Here's what comes to my mind....

 

Not disengaging, no other symptoms - most likely the slave is weak maybe the master as well, while the clutch, PP, flywheel and pilot bearing/bushing are possibly okay. Are you leaking fluid any where? Check the firewall to see if its dripping from the master, check the entire line carefully, the plastic line near the exhaust can get burned or warped and cause a small crack, any fluid draining out of the bottom of the bellhousing? How's the peddle pressure? How far in the pedal travel before the clutch begins to disengage? How much remaining pedal travel after the clutch is disengaged? Do you have to stomp it to the floor to shift gears? Do you have to pump it to build pressure?

 

Shaking on take-off - could be a worn pilot bushing or worn input shaft bearing on the transmission. I'm not sure of the spec off hand but whenever you get the transmission out check the endplay on the input shaft, its an indicator of remaining life of the transmission. If you don't have a dial indicator, use your redneck calipers (hands), if it shakes side to side like Shakira's booty it may be time for a rebuild, if it barely moves then that's a good sign.

 

Burning smell, slipping - worn clutch disc, weak pressure plate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no pressure on the petal, when I first got it back it was fine. The fluid level never went down any. The master and slave cylindars were both replaced along with the other clutch parts (or at least should have been). I know for a fact the mc and sc were replaced. I have tried bleeding the clutch without any luck.

 

This tranny leaks oil just as bad as my last one, so that covers the burning smell.

 

Normally I am all for doing the work myself, I just usually don't have the time, or tools to do it. Monday mom will be meeting her mechanic friend at my house to take a look at the Jeep and have his thoughts on the price to move again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...