ParadiseMJ Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Can't seem to get a rise out of NAXJA so: Well, all of a sudden the blower in the MJ died. Heat comes in real nice on VENT but I can't blow it in any specific direction...unless I move the lower door manually. Also heater blend door cable/wire is broken, thus the "manually". HAAALP!! Should I just score a new cable/wire from the JY? It broke at the connection in the cab about 1.5" shy of operable. Is there a way to use the old cable or am I pretty much looking at a new cable. Any clue as to the blower? Fuse good...don't know much about this. __________________ 1990 XJ, 4.0 AW4, Nice Jeep...FOR SALE 1988 MJ, 4.0, 5 speed, Resurrected, Junk Yard Franken-Jeep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Are the connectors the fuse goes into clean? Mine were all corroded. Not fun trying to drive without a defroster... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 air coming only from the defrost vents is usually a vacuum leak. check the line going to the vacuum canister behind the bumper. or do you mean heat won't work elsewhere? the fan could be a bad motor or a bad resistor panel. the resistors are located by the passengers foot in the air ducting and held in by a tiny screw (8mm wrench?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 air coming only from the defrost vents is usually a vacuum leak. check the line going to the vacuum canister behind the bumper. or do you mean heat won't work elsewhere? The air/heat moves from up to down to face with the control...the fan will not blow on any speed. AFAIK the vac is tight, new lines, vac res. in engine bay now. Holds vac. the fan could be a bad motor or a bad resistor panel. the resistors are located by the passengers foot in the air ducting and held in by a tiny screw (8mm wrench?). Is there a way to test the resistor etal. or is it just replace and cross fingers?? How to replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 A simple continuity test will work, but I'm betting you won't even need that. Mine was painfully obvious when I pulled it out. The dang thing had corroded pretty bad and burned itself out. Same with my minivan too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtlord420 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 ^^^would that cause my fuse to keep blowing? i must have went threw 7 last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 Are the connectors the fuse goes into clean? Mine were all corroded. Not fun trying to drive without a defroster... Yes, I looked at that first cause when I went through the Jeep things were a bit sketchy in that area. Everything is clean and bright and tight down there. I shudder the thought of replacing the fuse block and since that clutch master is right there I keep an eye on it every time I drive it for leaking. The fuse is fine...I even put in a brand new shiny fuse just for the H of it. No change, of course. I'm going to have to get down there and rip it apart...gotta replace that cable anyway unless I find an extra inch hiding in the dash. Junkyard run - the happiest place on earth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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