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What to do ?

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I'm hoping I've stuck this in the correct section. I am going to buy a Comanche within the next 6 months. My dilemma is I really like the MJ's w/ the '97 Cherokee up front body work and newer engine/trans. swaps. I also love the 91 - 92's w/ the better (to my thinking) engines and electronics. So do I hold out for a low mileage 91 - 92 w/ the 4.0 6 and an auto trans 4x4 short bed (preferably a pioneer or eliminator) in really good shape --- or do I go for a 90 or earlier in good shape and do the Cherokee 97 up swap out. I am only fair at mechanically large jobs - used to do all my own work but as the smog and electronics got more and more complicated the less I did. I still have all the tools, but not the engine hoists, electronic meters, or larger equipment. I am retired and don't need to worry about how long something is out of action so that is a plus. What would be the advantages of buying a 91 - 92 and doing minor upgrades over the 90 and lower years w/ 97' Cherokee swap out of running gear and body parts and interior? This seems a little ominous to an old dog like myself who has to rely on himself alone for the majority of the work w/o paying for things to get done.

I am not a serious off the roader. I like fire trails, mild off roading, camping, hunting and fishing w/ the grandchildren. Living in North East Georgia gives me lots of opportunities to go off the beaten path. Big lifts, serious off road equipment and all that goes w/ it is not in my future. A back injury and medical retirement took care of that.

My plan for a 91-92 would be a 3-4" lift, 31, 32 or 33 inch tires on stock(?) wheels. Mild engine upgrades (Edge Product's Trail Jammer Package), Header and Flow Master Catalytic Converter and exhaust. 44 front and rear axles w/ rear disc brakes. Sprayed in Bed liner and a few other projects to keep things safe and fun. I don't like things to break on me especially out in the boonies.

I am not a rich man and would appreciate your learned opinions on what would be the better choice for me in the long run? Anyone living near the Braselton/Hoschton Georgia area I would especially like to hear from you.


Thanks for your time,

Jeff "Olddog" Cummings

Hoschton, Ga. 30548


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d44 front/rear for 31-33" tires? a bit overkill for the 31" and not being a hardcore wheeler :cheers: you thought about just swapping the header panel/fenders and doors over? not a complete 97+ but gives it a good update thats pretty easy. and i believe the edge trail jammer's module is only for 97+ (just an fyi if you didnt know)

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"i believe the edge trail jammer's module is only for 97+" -Nope, didn't know it was just for the 97 and up. Still new at this game. Guess I'd have to get the intake manifold off the 99 and go a different route - would a turbo city stage 3 kit work on a 91-92 ? Something along that line w/ better distributor rotor and cap, hotter coil, better intake air filter set-up. I know the two 44's are a bit much but i have access - why not use them. (with the 32 or 33" tires ?)

"you thought about just swapping the header panel/fenders and doors over? not a complete 97+ but gives it a good update thats pretty easy" Have given that a lot of thought and if the 91 - 92 doesn't have a very good front end it would be the next project.

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At this stage it is more important to find a rust free MJ than one with ChryCo electronics, especially if you are planning on swapping over EVERYTHING from the 97+ donor XJ. I wanted a ChryCo MJ to start with but ended up buying a `88 (RENIX) that appeared locally (imported from southern US).


For your build don't bother with a Dana 44 front unless you are doing it for the fun of building a custom axle. The high pinion Dana 30 (non-disconnect) can easily deal with 35 inch tires and difficult wheeling if built properly. The question becomes whether you want to put that kind of money into a Dana 30, not whether it can put up with harder off-roading.


For your situation a Dana 30 that has had the standard maintenance type stuff done to it and possibly a truss added will be plenty strong. The important thing with a Dana 30 is keeping the differential case housing from deflecting under load. This is what kills Dana 30s most of the time and a good truss will keep it from happening.


I wouldn't waste my time with a Dana 44 front axle out of a TJ Rubicon unless I got it cheap.


FWIW, my front axle in the XJ is a '30, ARB, 4.56 gears, WJ brake/knuckles, tie-rod flipped cross over steering, manual hubs, CrMo shafts, converted to 5 on 5.5" lug pattern, custom truss.


The ultimate polished turd but it was mostly bolt together and will deal with much larger tires in the rocks than I run (265/75-16 or in other words roughly 32" tires).


As for whether you can do the modifications/swap yourself... only you can answer that question but none of this stuff is that difficult for a focused guy that can be patient and take his time. From your post I'd guess you have both of those traits.

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I hadn't heard of the Edge Products CAI, module, TB kit before.


I'm calling bull on their claimed performance gains.


I won't believe it without an independent dyno plot showing before and after install results.


Did some googling for reviews, reports, dyno plots, etc. They don't seem to exist. In fact, all the marketing bull out there on the product seems to dance around what vehicle the test results provided are actually for. They may get that kind of result on a Duramax or some other turbo vehicle but I'm pretty certain it does not apply to the 1950s tractor engine in a Jeep.


For their asking price you are almost half way into a 4.[5,6] stroker build with real power.


Save your money.


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