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Replacing clutch slave cylinder in an 89W/4.0 - 5sp Peugeout


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:waving:

 

New to board, new to Jeeps.

 

I bought an 89 a couple weeks ago. Guy put in a new clutch master - and a lot of other nice items but ran outta patience/money/time to finish it.

 

I figured a clutch slave couldn't be that hard :nuts: right? Another buddy just switched one out on a 92 Cherokee - took no time at all...

 

Gotta be simple, right? :hmm:

 

Right???? :shake:

 

:wall:

 

:rotfl2:

 

Ok, so I like ya'lls smilies. :D

 

I read in here about finding out which transmission my Comanche has, and discover that I have the French fineness. Yes, a powerful Peugeot BA-10/5 has moved this beauty down the roads and off for 202,000 miles - I'm confident from what little I've read here that you all are confident of it's lasting another 200k miles without mishap. :smart:

:rotf:

 

My dilemma: I'm mostly a motorcycle guy - not a great wrench and have only removed/installed two Chevy transmissions myself. Nothing as wonderfully simple and straightforward as a Jeep with a Peugeot engine.

 

Having taken a quick perusal of the board's posts about clutch slave cylinders, I haven't discovered a clear photo-laden description of the course of action.

 

And the manual, though good, does leave something to the imagination. Such as the practitioner isn't a blatant n00b and at least knows something of the components of the vehicle. :huh???:

 

I've got space, tools, a floor jack and a motorcycle jack for catching the transmission, and I've read the instructions, but I'm just a bit hesitant to tear into it with the abandon of a skilled mechanic. :dunce:

 

Therefore, I ask you to keep me from becoming a umn.gif and turn into this: :headpop:

 

:thumbsup:

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You're not gonna get your feet wet standing on the shore watching the waves roll in. Translation. You're not gonna learn until you do it. The biggy is having a stable jack for removing the tranny, necessary with the Renix. Slave cylinder inside the bellhousing. On the HO, the cylinder is exterior. The '89 MJ and '92 XJ are two different kettles of fish, slave cylinder wise. Think of a throw out bearing assembly with two hydraulic lines attached to it. :wrench: :thumbsup:

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:thumbsup: Thanks Jim.

 

I know I'll have to pull the transmission - have read the book on it and I'm trying to find a thread that shows the process.

 

Seems like it's pretty straightforward - except for the stuff that doesn't get mentioned. :doh:

 

I just spend another 1.5 hours searching for a how-to picture thread. :hmm:

 

Maybe it's just not that hard? :dunno:

 

I was hoping to get the process somewhat locked in my head - maybe even a few pointers - before proceeding.

 

It's not that big of a deal, if a one hour job takes a couple days - I will have learned much. :ack: :smart: :rotf:

IMG0799-S.jpg

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Seems most people raise the front of the vehicle when pulling the trans. I prefer to raise the rear. This way when you remove the cross member and the trans-engine drops down, on a jack, they will be more level. Makes it easier to remove and install. Take two studs, or bolts with their heads cut off and screw one in on each side into the engine block. Helps in keeping the tranny lined up during removal, installation. The major difference between working on a motorcycle and a car is the size of, and quantity of parts. You'll do OK. Jim

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I prefer to raise the rear. This way when you remove the cross member and the trans-engine drops down, on a jack, they will be more level.

 

[snip]

 

The major difference between working on a motorcycle and a car is the size of, and quantity of parts. You'll do OK. Jim

 

I like the suggestion - I'll jack it up from the rear and make the line-up studs. :thumbsup:

 

And as far as the difference between bikes/cages - quantity & complexity. Or rather, I'm just not accustomed to the added stuff on a truck.

 

I'll probably tear this down on Thursday, check the clutch and if I need to, replace it and spend the weekend putting it back together.

 

Then I'll start fixing the small issues in the interior:

 

Needs new E-brake release cable (just the handle cable in the cab) Driver window crank, headliner, cupholder for the buckets the guy installed a week before he sold it and a glovebox latch.

 

When I get a few bux ahead, I'm going to do something about that ghetto paint job. :doh: :rotf:

 

Since I couldn't find a picture process thread, I'll do one. :typing:

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  • 1 month later...

Yeah, that was a lot of fun.

 

No pix. I was too far into the learning curve to document the process.

 

Other than the wacky way the Peugeot has a different size head on every bolt - and a Torx for the top bolts :nuts: it was just a plain old pain in the @$$. But after a lot of struggling and a new clutch pack and a flywheel resurfacing, I got it done.

 

Only to find that the clutch pedal pivot had broken - making it impossible to depress the pedal all the way. This may have been the problem all along - until it wore out the clutch. :doh:

 

:rotf:

 

2 hours to disassemble - 10 minutes to weld - and an hour to put back in place. :grrrr:

 

The excessive filings in the drain plug of the transmission don't really bode well for another 200k on this one. :ack: I'll be reading up on the AX-15 conversion. :smart:

 

:brows:

 

I thought I was just buying a good little pickup. :nuts: :shake: :hmm:

 

:rotfl2:

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