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A good day:


Sir Sam
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Went down to get a rear hatch for my WJ, lucked out that it was still there and managed to grab it, it was cheaper without the glass so I removed the rear glass.

 

Ending up being a pita to carry out by myself so I stuck my head through the window hole and rested it on my neck like I was some sort of beast of burden, walked right up into the office and paid without ever taking it off. $45 later I scored a undented correct color hatch to replace the one on my WJ.

 

Then we headed back over to the other yard that had a WJ dana 30 that I needed, started pulling that and my buddy hurriedly came back over telling me, "We're pulling another axle!"

 

Turns out he found an XJ 87 with a Dana 44, so I moved our tools over there real quick and 25 mins later we had a Dana 44 pulled.

 

Went back over and worked on the WJ, racing against the clock of the anouncments of 45 mins till close, then 40, then 35, then 30.

 

Got everything loaded on the cart and out the door. $290 for 2 axles.

 

Hopefully I can't find a core to bring back and I'll bring back the bent WJ D30 and get $60 back in cores.

 

I'll take the brakes and high steer off of the old WJ Dana 30 and throw those on my XJ......BIG BRAKES for my XJ woot!(and highsteer but I don't care about that).

 

So I got my front axle for the WJ(that might have 3.73s and I need 3.55), got a XJ Dana 44 to sell to recoup the purchase price of the WJ D30, and I got a matching color silver door.

 

It was a good day.

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Hey Sam. I haven't done any research yet, or ever read a writeup, but do you think it's doable w/o too much effort to add the bigger WJ front brakes to my 91 2WD MJ? It has the one piece rotor/hubs. :dunno:

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Hey Sam. I haven't done any research yet, or ever read a writeup, but do you think it's doable w/o too much effort to add the bigger WJ front brakes to my 91 2WD MJ? It has the one piece rotor/hubs. :dunno:

 

Yes, your situation would be slightly more complicated but I'm sure you could do it.

 

You might end up having to run 4wd hubs with the stub shafts if there was some reason your 2WD hubs wouldn't work.

 

To do the WJ brakes on older XJ/MJ you either need to have some spacers or run the 2000+ hubs. The 2000+ hubs are a little different and if you try to use 99- rotors on a 00+ the brakes end up being locked down tight.

 

The other added benefit to the WJ brakes is that you use the WJ knuckles and they are high steer.

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Thanks Sam. Looking for an alternative to the over-the-top Vanco solution. Even looking for a dual piston caliper I can adapt up front. I did this on my bike (found an obscure Brembo/BMW dual piston caliper that was a near bolt-on) and it made a world of difference. Next project up - will start doing homework. :cheers:

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Thanks Sam. Looking for an alternative to the over-the-top Vanco solution. Even looking for a dual piston caliper I can adapt up front. I did this on my bike (found an obscure Brembo/BMW dual piston caliper that was a near bolt-on) and it made a world of difference. Next project up - will start doing homework. :cheers:

 

You should just grab a nice 99 HP D30 and then grab some 00 hubs and then throw on the WJ brakes. Then your only a transmission, transfercase, and 2 driveshafts short of being 4wd.

 

 

Also there is a local guy on naxja that is now offering a bolt on big brake kit.....but its pricey:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1023551

 

The WJ brakes are dual piston and are BEEFY compared to the stock XJ calipers. I bet the big brakes in that guys kit are going to be better than WJ brakes, but at about 10x the cost.

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Yes, I've seen the NAXJA kit. Amazing that someone goes to all the trouble of what looks like an excellent big brake kit together, announces the price, then instant silence. :D

 

I hear you Sam, but I have no desire to go 4WD. I'm looking more to adapting an existing 2-pot caliper (the Aussie Ford Falcon caliper looks doable) and use the same rotors with a machined custom 2WD bracket w/o needing spacers. Have known Marcus (Gojeep) for years and am corresponding w. him, but he's a busy guy.

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Yes, I've seen the NAXJA kit. Amazing that someone goes to all the trouble of what looks like an excellent big brake kit together, announces the price, then instant silence. :D

 

I hear you Sam, but I have no desire to go 4WD. I'm looking more to adapting an existing 2-pot caliper (the Aussie Ford Falcon caliper looks doable) and use the same rotors with a machined custom 2WD bracket w/o needing spacers. Have known Marcus (Gojeep) for years and am corresponding w. him, but he's a busy guy.

 

Then in your case I think the best solution is to install the 4WD hubs with the stub shafts bolted in, then the WJ brakes are a bolt on.

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IF the 4WD WJ hubs with the stub shafts will bolt in? Not sure - no clue. Pat had a similar idea. This would be an ideal solution for moi.

 

The "C" is the same size on the 2wd and 4wd beams, so you can fit the stub shafts into the hubs and they will clear the C's.

 

You then need 00+ XJ/TJ hubs, the WJ knuckles, the calipers etc.

 

This way you use 5x4.5 hubs, and then get new explorer sport trac rotors which are also 5x4.5.

 

Man, somewhere out there there is a parallel universe where Jeep DIDN'T switch to 5x5 for the WJ and make everyones life harder. Just think, if the WJ was 5x4.5 you could just bolt on the knuckle, caliper, and rotor and call it good.

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The "C" is the same size on the 2wd and 4wd beams, so you can fit the stub shafts into the hubs and they will clear the C's.

 

You then need 00+ XJ/TJ hubs, the WJ knuckles, the calipers etc.

 

This way you use 5x4.5 hubs, and then get new explorer sport trac rotors which are also 5x4.5.

 

Man, somewhere out there there is a parallel universe where Jeep DIDN'T switch to 5x5 for the WJ and make everyones life harder. Just think, if the WJ was 5x4.5 you could just bolt on the knuckle, caliper, and rotor and call it good.

 

Yep, I have those same Explorer rotors from Teraflex (drilled for both 5x5 and 5x4.5) bolted on the rear now. + a spare set. Thickness of the Explorer rotors vs. the WJ calipers might be an issue? Do you know the nominal thickness of the WJ rotors? Sam, you might just have come up with a good economical solution mate. Seems logical - really appreciate it.

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The "C" is the same size on the 2wd and 4wd beams, so you can fit the stub shafts into the hubs and they will clear the C's.

 

You then need 00+ XJ/TJ hubs, the WJ knuckles, the calipers etc.

 

This way you use 5x4.5 hubs, and then get new explorer sport trac rotors which are also 5x4.5.

 

Man, somewhere out there there is a parallel universe where Jeep DIDN'T switch to 5x5 for the WJ and make everyones life harder. Just think, if the WJ was 5x4.5 you could just bolt on the knuckle, caliper, and rotor and call it good.

 

Yep, I have those same Explorer rotors from Teraflex (drilled for both 5x5 and 5x4.5) bolted on the rear now. + a spare set. Thickness of the Explorer rotors vs. the WJ calipers might be an issue? Do you know the nominal thickness of the WJ rotors? Sam, you might just have come up with a good economical solution mate. Seems logical - really appreciate it.

 

I don't know the thickness's, I actually have the used set of rotors from the axle in the back of my Jeep right now, I'm gonna return em tomorrow and get $16 back.

 

When I pull the axle out I will measure the thickness of the rotor. The "offset" of the rotor is important too.

 

All I have to say about that is that I am not the first person to do this, and I need to read the stuff on naxja about it, but it is possible to get an entirely bolt on solution requiring no special parts or machining.

 

So if you find a WJ at a junkyard you can score all the parts for something like $100.

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I don't know the thickness's, I actually have the used set of rotors from the axle in the back of my Jeep right now, I'm gonna return em tomorrow and get $16 back.

 

When I pull the axle out I will measure the thickness of the rotor. The "offset" of the rotor is important too.

 

All I have to say about that is that I am not the first person to do this, and I need to read the stuff on naxja about it, but it is possible to get an entirely bolt on solution requiring no special parts or machining.

 

So if you find a WJ at a junkyard you can score all the parts for something like $100.

 

Yes, still some variables, but an excellent starting point. Explorer and WJ nominal rotor thickness I can find online; but don't know about the offset, a definite factor. I've never found anything about anyone doing a "big brake" front conversion on a late MJ model 2WD, so this is new. Maybe the Archers did something back in the day? Most importantly is KISS for me. Could be a good 2WD front brake upgrade solution. Homework time. :cheers:

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I don't know the thickness's, I actually have the used set of rotors from the axle in the back of my Jeep right now, I'm gonna return em tomorrow and get $16 back.

 

When I pull the axle out I will measure the thickness of the rotor. The "offset" of the rotor is important too.

 

All I have to say about that is that I am not the first person to do this, and I need to read the stuff on naxja about it, but it is possible to get an entirely bolt on solution requiring no special parts or machining.

 

So if you find a WJ at a junkyard you can score all the parts for something like $100.

 

Yes, still some variables, but an excellent starting point. Explorer and WJ nominal rotor thickness I can find online; but don't know about the offset, a definite factor. I've never found anything about anyone doing a "big brake" front conversion on a late MJ model 2WD, so this is new. Maybe the Archers did something back in the day? Most importantly is KISS for me. Could be a good 2WD front brake upgrade solution. Homework time. :cheers:

 

Well nothing is really different that matters on an older 2WD, whatever the nominal thickness and the offset people have worked that out before for the WJ brake swap.

 

If you used the 4wd 00 hubs with the stub shafts then everything else would be what anyone like myself needs to go through.

 

The only other thing you might check out is what the WJ 2wd stuff looks like, but I see no reason that it would help, like I said I think your solution is 4wd hubs with stubs.

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