87Chief Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 I pulled the dipstick, it doesn't look milkshakey at all, it is a little black though. I waited for the thermostat to open today and I didn't see any bubbles come up afterwards, it just kept overfilling.. I just emailed my instructor at school to see when I could bring it up there to do a compression test.. Compression test is taking out the spark plugs and turning the engine over correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 I only had time to do 3 spark plug holes today for the compression test... I started with the one closest to the cab and went forward.. Closest to cab results: 75 on first and 150 on last next: 75 on first and 150 last next: 80 on first and 135 on last.. I didn't get a chance to get to the last one because it would've taken too long to move the compressor and such because I had to go to work. Are the compressions in range or no? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naterenfo1 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Ok, head gasket is bad. Compression looks just barely in spec. I would try and get the last compression reading. If you decide that you want to rip the head off, you can do it pretty easy with a basic set of hand tools. :wrench: When removing the head, don't mess with the valves. If you have push rods, when you pull those out find a nice flat surface on a table. Roll the pushrods on the table. If one, or any do not roll perfectly, replace them. Don't mess around with straightening them. Also, make sure that when you stack them up next to each other, stand them on end and be sure they are exactly the same distance (we are talking thousandths of an inch). When the head is removed, be sure to clean any and ALL passages on it. especially the passages on the top end (side with the rockers) it would be a good idea to keep a properly machined STRAIGHT EDGE with you, and a set of feeler gauges. This is a diagram to help you determine cylinder head warpage. Generally a good rule of thumb for warpage, is .001" per cylinder on the head. So, 4 cylinder engine, .004" maximum warpage allowed (single head). Don't just rip the head off and take it to a machinist. Here is a diagram, to show you which ways you should check for warpage. Now what good would checking the head do without checking the block? do the same exact test on the block, and hope to god that it specs out fine. With blocks, generally you can get a couple extra thousandths and squeak by, but if you plan on keeping the truck and/or beating the snot out of it, I suggest machining it. it might be a good idea to go with a thicker head gasket as well if either is slightly warped. choosing a place to get it machined? Don't you dare go to O'reilly, or auto zone, or napa or whatever. Take it to a legit actual machine shop. If you do decide to take it to a machine shop, take off all the valves, valve springs, valve seals, rockers etc, and be sure to number them so you know where to put them back. if they are machining it, may as well get your valves ground and your seats ground to. So be sure to bring in the valves with the head, not IN the head. anyway, thats about as much as I can help in one posting, and this is all if I am right about the head gasket, which I am pretty sure is the problem but hey, I could be wrong. Good luck! I will help as much as I can, be sure to check the drained oil for milky nasty un oil like qualities -Nate :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 Thanks a lot! Would it not be the piston rings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naterenfo1 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Generally, piston rings would be burning oil (burning smoke) so I would say no, not the piston rings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brdhntr Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 wouldn't a pressure test of the cooling system tell you if the head gasket is bad even if the coolant is being burned instead of going into the oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naterenfo1 Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 yeah, but so will a compression test lol. You can do it either way! and both is better than one! :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 When I start it up for about 15 minutes, smoke comes out of the tailpipe... I believe it is white, so it would be coolant, correct? I should be able to do a coolant compression test tomorrow and finally do my alignment, for free :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naterenfo1 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Probably not. If the machine shop is grinding new seats into the head, chances are they are going to be grinding your valves too. But if your valve margins are too thin on some (or all) valves, they will probably recommend replacement. Ask them to test your springs too, IDK if machine shops test springs or not, so that might be an O'Reilly or similiar place job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now