89 4x4 comanche Project... Parts ref for Dana 44 Swap

[skidoo_j]

I recently started in on a Dana 44 SOA conversion on my MJ. Along the way I've found few resources regarding accomplishing this. I unlike most wanted to minimize my lift. I bought my spring perches, and ubolt plates from http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com talk about made well and the U-bolts are the best i've ever seen. I had the perches then ground to lessen the lift from the perch. I choose not to use the old plate shock mount and got them too.

 

I also used a shackle from an XJ to reduce my lift .75". I tried to swap in an XJ load spring as it was thinner, but didn't think it looked safe as xJ springs are so much flatter that it looked like a fish hook as it hung so low.. Also didnt want to reduce my load capacity.

I used Rancho rs5112 shocks 16 compressed 26 ish extended. 5/8" each end

Net rear lift about 4"

 

When doing the front lift I went with rusty's springs and have found them to be sub par but rusty said he will warranty exchange them... still waiting.

 

Cheap Extended brake hoses for the front, would fit xj and mj Napa Part 38182 and 38183

they are about 4" longer not sure what they're from. they cost me 13 each. way better than any other i've found. they have a bracket you need to remove but for the price :)

 

 

napa also helped set up an extend rear brake line, but i found one on Craigslist and bought it but lost the part number.

[skidoo_j]

I kept the stock driveline as the pumpkin of the 44 was about 1" longer. but am unsure if I will have problems. I plan to install rusty's transfercase drop bar so i don't loose clearance as most other trans drops do.

 

I did experience the "death wobble" at 55 mph, not sure if it's cuz i have not had an alignment or somthing is loose. still working on it. any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

 

going to install a trac bar to center the axle, and control arms to correct the knuckles.

[mvusse]

If you lifted the front anywhere near 4", you will have ~1.5"-2" toe in. That by itself is enough to set off death wobble. I speak from experience here: After lifing the front 4.5" I had DW at 25-30mph so severe it cost me an alternator (bearings fubarred). After going over literally everything part by part it turned out to be the 2" toe in causing the problem.

 

Transfer case drop is not needed for u joint angles in your rear drive line. If your rear drive shaft is still too short, you can use a YJ yoke for a bit of extra length (either 1/2" or 3/4", can't remember offhand). TJ may be similar, don't know. You can also use one of the other holes in the perches to move the axle forward 1", but added to the longer snout on the axle and a longer yoke that would probably be too much.

 

Also test your rear axle down travel and/or limit it with straps. When I tried XJ shackles and let the axle droop down the shackles angled forward so far they flipped up in the forward position when I placed weight back on the axle.

[skidoo_j]

rather than straps what about making a stop point for the shackle... i was affraid of that too, but then i did a test w/ the stock shackle and they both went beyond straight up and down when extened then went back to normal rest when let down, but in an off road situation I'm unsure if it would completely invert.

[mvusse]

I guess fabricating a stop for the shackle could work. Typically you'd use limiting straps, though.

[skidoo_j]

Transfer case drop is not needed for u joint angles in your rear drive line. If your rear drive shaft is still too short, you can use a YJ yoke for a bit of extra length (either 1/2" or 3/4", can't remember offhand). TJ may be similar, don't know. You can also use one of the other holes in the perches to move the axle forward 1", but added to the longer snout on the axle and a longer yoke that would probably be too much.

 

How much of the yoke is exposed stock?? I didn't measure before hand and am trying to make sure that at rest position i'm close to stock. I'm assuming going from spring over from under and keeping stock springs the yoke/ driveline movment would be fine if close to stock depth when at rest...

 

I'm also replaceing my trans mount and motor mounts, decided to do the trans case drop from rusty's that's the whole plate. need to see if i'd still need the yj yoke. I've read where peeps suggested replacing the u-joint when lifting so gonna do that at same time. I guess the death wobble pretty much scared the crap out of me... and just want to eliminate all possible at once. still waiting on rusty's to warranty the front springs so i can install the lca and get an alignment. it's in the garage now until then ..

[skidoo_j]

Got my stuff in to fix the front end issues hopefully.

 

 

Lets see... They put all this and more on in an hour on the TV show trucks, so i figure taking away all the time they spend talking about themselves... I'll have it done in 2 weeks. and yes that is a bottle of crown. I like good stuff while working on the car. Good by death shake in the truck...

 

 

steering box brace

trac bar heavy duty

new front springs

control arms

quick disconnects

trans cross member

trans mount

 

throttle spacer