Cranks, fires, but won't start...

[crooner]

I get nothing blinking at all. I'll check the ECU connector, clean it, etc (located on the 'port' side, this is what I call the computer).

 

Does the CEL illuminate when you turn the key on? It's sounding more and more like an ECU problem to me mate. :eek:

 

Yes, as normal. I get the seatbelt cell, the check engine, etc. So I know they are working. If it IS the ECU, how much asn I looking at new or would you trust a used one? I'm thinking not.

 

I think I may have located the problem (and pinched L5 and L4 on my back in the process). The ignition module up on the wheel that houses the key receiver has tale-tale signs of melting insulation from one of the hot wires (still don't have a dang FSM for this '95, mine is from a '93 I used to have..not the same). I tapped it with a test light and its getting juice...but the housing which is a white/beige color is dark brown there. So, I may need an ECU still, but thought I'd check with a dealer and aftermarket for a new ignition key switch. I assume the dealer must key it to match??

 

For what its worth (and thanks for everyone's patience!) I tested all fuses under the dash on the driver's side with the key in the RUN position. No love there for the blower, or wipers. My thought is that perhaps the RUN circuit shorted in the ignition key switch by that dark brown/burnt looking area.

[HOrnbrod]

Yes, replace the ignition switch first. If it's not keying to RUN, the ECU will not flash - no power to it.

[crooner]

Here is what I think the problem is. Not the dark brown part. Its actually worse than it looks and the corresponding wire in the harness that caused it was melted but still had power. I think though, that the innards of the switch are toast and preventing power to the 'switched' circuits (fan, wipers, cigarette lighter, etc.) which I confirmed with a test light.

 

 

 

I'm thinking that the blower motor resistor failed and the blower consequently drew a huge amount of amps through the harness (RUN position) and the wire heated up then melted the switch to the point it was shorted. I replaced the resistor pack but not the blower...probably a good idea, but I heard they are spendy and I don't know yet if my ECU is uckfayed up or not.

 

Does that all make sense to those in the know???? :dunno:

 

In spite of not having it run yet, I do love these motors. :doh:

[crooner]

Problem resolved.

 

Turns out after the AC drain tube had been clogged for years, collecting then dumping water at the footwells (stained carpet when I bought it and rusty seat bolts). I recently and finally found the drain tube, cleaned it and no more water in the cabin. The dealer sells a shorter tube that was produced as a technical repair to eliminate an uphill drain tube. As a result of the tube being clear I'd been running the AC hard for many miles on a couple back to back trips to Atlanta. The moisture in the area around the resistor had badly, badly rusted the resistor--the fan would work on all speeds but the resistor pack was failing. So the amp draw found the next easy target I think, in the ignition key switch module and the wire in the connector there became the resistor or the fan.

 

NAPA had the ignition switch for $42, so I returned the CPS. It comes with simple instructions on how to pull the lock cylinder out of the old one and mount it into the new one. They are a tad different in design, but it all goes together smoothly. My Check Engine light codes now function as you all expected (that was a pretty cool discovery for me, thanks!). I got a code 12 (battery disconnected in the last 50 key cycles, er, duh!), then the 55.

 

Many thanks for the help, I couldn't have fixed this without you guys! :cheers:

[Eagle]

That's good news.

 

As Colonel Hannibal Smith liked to say, "I love it when a plan comes together."

[HOrnbrod]

X2 - fine work. What is the NAPA part number that ignition switch?

[crooner]

Here's a link to the ignition switch at NAPA:

 

http://tinyurl.com/NAPA-Ignition-Switch

 

And incase that link breaks in the future, the here's the skinny:

 

Ignition Starter Switch

Part Number: ECH KS6557

Unit Price: $42.99

Warranty: Limited 12 Months

[Lloyd]

Glad to hear you were successful in solving your issue. It is very similar to the one I had but the ignition switch on mine was not connected with the key cylinder. I guess since mine was a 91' that they have advanced the anti-theft properties since then. Oh, and by the way, my back issue was the L1 disc. LOL. :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

[HOrnbrod]

Yeah, the 91 ignition switch is completely different than the part number that crooner posted, but good info nevertheless since I've never had a problem with it. BTW, it's a different p/n between the tilt and non-tilt columns too. :cheers: