engine swap?

[Salvagedcircuit]

I hear your frustrations. I have a rebuilt gm 4.3L vortec V6 in my astro van from jasper. Its been about 15k miles and for the past 5k miles there has been very tiny amounts of metal filings in the oil filter. Again, brand new rebuilt engine. Took the oil pan off and inspected the engine. Turns out the piston rod caps were not torqued down to GM spec. The rod bearings were removed and they had signs of uneven wear. Purchased all new mhale rod bearings, used plastigauge and my calibrated torque wrench and torqued everything up to proper gm specifications. It's crazy what some companies get away with.

 

Please don't crush the comanche. You will get more by reselling it. There are folks who buy comanche's in any shape. You will get more from a private sale than any junkyard will offer.

[ChainsawCHARL1E]

Update: still driving the 1986 MJ with the 3.4L swap, because the swap took all my $$ and nobody wants to buy this P.O.S. which now has about 15k on the rebuilt engine. Got some of the leaks contained, but the MJ is not welcome on sealed driveways. The Holley 2BBL sniper settled down, a little, after I installed "Livewires" from performance distributors.com. The Sniper still stalls, especially when it's cold out, but if I'm rolling, I just put it in 5th gear and clutch-start it, which means I don't need to pull over and crank-and-crank-and-crank at every intersection. I'm sure I've posted this before, but the Holley Sniper is garbage and Holley has taken no responsibility for this and gone so far as to release a Sniper2 without recalling the original Sniper. Not much power or torque increase over the 2.8L: should have saved up for an LS swap.

 

Let this be a warning to Comanche owners everywhere: the Chevy 2.8L/3.1L/3.4L V6 engines are underpowered, gas-sucking pigs that are easy to overheat. Stay away from these engines. Also, stay away from the Holley Sniper. 

 

Next project: swapping in a Toyota 22R from my 1982 Hilux, once the 3.4L dies.