Darryl Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Mine works, just missing the linkage. Have the flat bar that swings, but not the parts that attach to axle ( I think that's where it goes! lol!) does anyone have a picture and measurements of this contraption, so I can have the linkage made! Or better yet, anyone know where I can buy one! Is there a Mopar Vintage parts supplier or something like that? I've Googled my brains out looking for parts, and the salvage yards around me have no Comanche's to be found. I guess they are too precious to scrap! :typing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 IIRC, it needs to be level with no weight in the bed. the factory linkage is a "ball" mounted to the pumpkin and a rod running from the valve to that ball... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl Posted November 21, 2009 Author Share Posted November 21, 2009 Thanks,that gives me a better idea. I have it tie srapped in and upward position to give me more braking in the front, but I'd love a picture of one so I can describe it better to have it made! Is it really neccessary to have this in place? Do most of you Dudes out there still have it on? :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 The up position should give full REAR braking. IE as if the bed was loaded full. Remember its a LOAD SENSING valve. :yes: :brows: Many guys just "zip tie" it in that position and forget about it. but that's only a temp proposition. Bleeding the brakes with this valve is .. well a PIA!! many of us have just removed it, some have swapped in a XJ prop valve in place of the MJ's DISTRIBUTION block. it LOOKS like a prop valve but its not. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl Posted November 21, 2009 Author Share Posted November 21, 2009 You are a good man! I will steal it from my parts truck ('94 Cherokee) if its still in good shape, i hope the lines are not too buggered up with rust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 I still have mine w. some mods. Bleeding is no problem, in spite of what the FSM says about the "special procedure" for the load sensing valve. A long gravity bleed before bleeding the conventional RR, LR, RF, LF wheels in that order is the key. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17968 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 ^ that is one sweet job, i was trying to find that thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 I still have mine w. some mods. Bleeding is no problem, in spite of what the FSM says about the "special procedure" for the load sensing valve. A long gravity bleed before bleeding the conventional RR, LR, RF, LF wheels in that order is the key. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17968 A gravity bleed CANNOT bleed the bypass line. Your brakes may work fine under normal conditions, but if you lose the front brakes and there's air in the bypass line -- you won't have any rear brakes, either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 A gravity bleed CANNOT bleed the bypass line. Your brakes may work fine under normal conditions, but if you lose the front brakes and there's air in the bypass line -- you won't have any rear brakes, either. I also gravity bleed the load sensing valve at the feed and bypass line by cracking the fittings at the valve. And I do it for about two hours, keeping the master cylinder front and rear tanks full. SOP for gravity bleeding is all wheel calipers and any additional biasing valves. Should have mentioned that..... Thanks for your correction Eagle. No need for CAPS........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 A gravity bleed CANNOT bleed the bypass line. Your brakes may work fine under normal conditions, but if you lose the front brakes and there's air in the bypass line -- you won't have any rear brakes, either. I also gravity bleed the load sensing valve at the feed and bypass line by cracking the fittings at the valve. And I do it for about two hours, keeping the master cylinder front and rear tanks full. SOP for gravity bleeding is all wheel calipers and any additional biasing valves. Should have mentioned that..... Thanks for your correction Eagle. No need for CAPS........ But the bypass inlet at the front metering block is closed by the shuttle valve unless the front brakes have failed and the slider has moved to open that inlet. I don't think your gravity bleed is actually flowing brake fluid through the bypass line, I think it's back-feeding from the primary line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 But the bypass inlet at the front metering block is closed by the shuttle valve unless the front brakes have failed and the slider has moved to open that inlet. I don't think your gravity bleed is actually flowing brake fluid through the bypass line, I think it's back-feeding from the primary line. Could be. The MJ metering block (the FSM still calls it a proportioning valve for the MJ??) is the same for all MJ years. The load sensing valves are different after 1991. I crack both lines on my 91 load sensing valve separately when gravity bleeding, the upper line -supply, and the left side bypass line - bypass, until I have clear no bubbling fluid flow thru each. Then I do the caliper RR LR RF LF pump and bleed sequence until it's bubble clear w. transparent tubing into a clear jar. This works well for moi. But I'm not sure about the shuttle valve up front - do I have one in the 91? Is this the low fluid pressure switch? :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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