Retch99 Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 I'm just about the yank out the engine/trans for a repaint of my truck. What are the best lifting points people have used on the 4.0L engine? Looking for what works the best for folks out there. -Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Are you using a chain or a load leveler? Usually I bolt my load leveler to it. On the drivers side I use the forwardmost top manifold bolt, and rearmost top manifold bolt, then on the passenger side I use one of the AC bracket bolts, and then in the back really the only spot is the grounding stud. Remove your CPS before you pull it out so you don't accidentally break it! I know these aren't the best but it's all I got Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retch99 Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 Are you using a chain or a load leveler? Usually I bolt my load leveler to it. On the drivers side I use the forwardmost top manifold bolt, and rearmost top manifold bolt, then on the passenger side I use one of the AC bracket bolts, and then in the back really the only spot is the grounding stud. Remove your CPS before you pull it out so you don't accidentally break it! I know these aren't the best but it's all I got Thanks! I was planning to pick up a load leveler. You managed to pull it with the transfer case installed? I was thinking I was going to have to undo that underneath. Good point about the CPS. -Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 correy (geonovast) does too much work to pull the motors. I unbolt the alternator or a/c compressor and use one of those holes on the pass. front. I use the rear driver's side head bolt (it has a stud on it), I usually wrap a chain through between the power steering pump and intake manifold after I disconnect the hoses and drain that, and then I also get a longer bolt to go in the pass. dipstick/ground wire bolt. that way you don't have to pull the motor apart while it's in the engine bay. I ALWAYS reinstall the way correy does, by putting the motor together after it's in the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 If you're pulling the transmission with the motor, you don't need to worry about pulling the CPS first. Why's the motor coming out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retch99 Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 If you're pulling the transmission with the motor, you don't need to worry about pulling the CPS first. Why's the motor coming out? several reasons: First being I need to change the slave cylinder on the trans (doing the clutch while I'm there) and 22 years of grease from leaky grommets and valve covers. I'm gonna refresh the gaskets, clean and paint things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 If you're pulling the transmission with the motor, you don't need to worry about pulling the CPS first. Why's the motor coming out? several reasons: First being I need to change the slave cylinder on the trans (doing the clutch while I'm there) and 22 years of grease from leaky grommets and valve covers. I'm gonna refresh the gaskets, clean and paint things. Ok. I'm glad you said the gaskets and paint, because there is no reason to pull the motor for a clutch and slave cylinder. Much easier to drop the trans. What year is your truck? It would be very helpful if you put some specs of your truck in your signature. ie, Year, motor, trans, 4wd/2wd, axles, swb or lwb, etc. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Anyone have pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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